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Posts posted by darcshadow
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if you have multiple layers with the white some where in the middle you're probably going to have to do some combination of welding and cutting. When you weld something you are taking two objects from different layers and combining them into a new layer. So if you had a white piece between them that will no longer be possible, the white will now be on top or below the new welded image.
Screen shots would help a lot with more advice.
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Since the design is simple swishes, it's be pretty easy to recreate/manual trace with no need to edit the photo before hand.
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20 hours ago, ACJ GRAPHICS said:i had a jpeg image and vectored it but in original middle f was white couldn't separate so that i could cut by color. i have illustrator and also vinyl master was going to cut with that
I'm still confused. The file you posted has a white F and everything is individual objects, they are simply grouped together. If I'm understanding what you're wanting, all you have to do is ungroup the image and pull the white F out.
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What do you mean you traced it out? The file you posted is a vector already and all the segments of the logo are separate pieces, they are just grouped together. Simply ungroup them. Not there are some "extra" light blue pieces for some reason. You'll want to delete them before cutting.
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Doing a google search for Safenet, the only thing I find is about some sort of encryption program. Is that your problem? If so, you'll likely have to contact the people at Safenet.
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DPI is a raster term, doesn't apply to Vectors. For a logo that is to be cut you'd be better off designing in vector first then save export it to a raster format if/when necessary.
How big are your logos that don't work? I know MH's have limited memory, but I have one, and have never ran into a memory problem and I've done some designs with a thousands of nodes.
JLS, if you don't mind, I'd love it if you'd send me one of your designs that doesn't cut correctly and let me run it through mine just so I can see the memory problem first hand.
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USB or serial?
Vinyl/stand grounded?
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Play around with different fonts. Fanklin Gothic Heavy at 6.3" tall will fill your 5' area.
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I've blasted at 60psi, with no issues, so long as the decal is not too detailed. Obviously the smaller the piece of vinyl the easier it'll lift/blow off.
Applying to a textured glass like above would be the tricking part I would think.
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I think you both missed his last post, the problem is software related, it doesn't happen with SignBlazer but does with VinylCutMaster.
After you try reinstalling VM and the drivers, if that doesn't fix the problem I'd suggest contacting VM support.
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substitute the word foison for the word roland in Dakotagrafx's post.
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And depending on the software you are using, there maybe a tool to do this. Signblazer has a measurement tool that can also be used to resize shapes/drawings.
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I don't have SCALP but some where in your software there should be a scale factor you can fiddle with. Your machine is a stepper motor machine and I believe typical settings are 1000 steps per inch. Perhaps someone on here that uses SCALP can chime in and let you know where that setting is. If not, you could always try a different software and see if you can get the cuts correct. I know Signblazer allows you to adjust the distance per step as well as the cut extension for Inkscape.
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In the MH manual it specifies the number of steps per inch, 1000. I believe that is a pretty standard number for stepper motor cutters. I would expect that information is documented some place for the PCut but I don't know for sure.
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Looks like Aachen Std Bold
You in Fort Worth?
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You looking for a design software or cutting software? Inkscape is a free design software that is just as capable as the big name software. It does take some learning and some aspects are not as straight forward as in other software but it is very capable and free.
Signblazer is the only free cutting software I'm aware of.
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There was a discussion along these lines just last week.
You should be able to do it with VM LTR and above.
If you don't have LTR or better it can also be done in Inkscape which is a free program, although it's not as straight forward as in other programs.
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Try making two straight parallel lines and closely watch the cutter head to see if it drifts at all. If not, and the cuts are not equal the entire run, then the problem is the vinyl slipping.
If the cuts are both equal, then try doing it again, this time with the parallel lines about an 1" apart and a standing sine wave between the two cuts for the entire length. Assuming the two parallel lines are again equal the entire run, if the sine wave does not stay within the lines then the problem is the cutter head drifting.
Still though, keep in mind this is a budget cutter using a stepper motor and you're wanting a 1/4" accuracy over a 12 foot long run, you're pushing the limits of what the cutter is capable of.
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I have this one a buddy asked me to make up for him. Don't know if he ever put it on someone's car or not.
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The tracking off while pre-feeding is likely due to not getting the vinyl perfectly square to the cutter.
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If you have that much trouble, might try Acetone or I've heard VM&P Naphtha works well for removing adhesives. Although they may damage the finish.
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Depending on what you're using the stencils for, you might look at wall vinyl. It's easy to remove from most surfaces and so long as the surface is flat works well as a stencil. I've been using it lately for powder coating.
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So what was the fix?
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I'd think it'd be easier to just use 1/4" pin striping tape.
Regarding the tracking issue, have you messed with the pinch rollers? Do you pre-feed the 12' or so of vinyl first?
DNA
in Graphic Requests
Posted
Here's one I have.
Double_Helix.eps