darcshadow

Whatthefont.com says Bonheur Royale https://www.myfonts.com/fonts/typesetit/bonheur-royale/bonheur-royale/

Love it when it turns out to be a simple solution.

For the drawing a square test you would just be sending a simple box to the cutter to test not doing a contour cut so it won't be looking for registration marks and shouldn't spit the paper out. There would be no need to do a calibration routine for this test. When you go through the contour cut calibration process does it move the laser close to the registration marks or does it spit the paper out for that too?

The page being spit out problem sounds like your marks are simply too close to the edge of the paper. The carrier sheet should solve that problem. The drifting could be a calibration adjustment of the scale. Does the Titan have a pen option? If so, load a sheet of paper and draw a square as big as you can fit on the page. Then measure it as accurately as possible. Does it measure the same as what it was designed to be? If you don't have a pen option you can just cut some vinyl.

Did you try a google search for it? 3rd link in on my results found a place to download it for free. Found another listing on eBay for $20. https://winworldpc.com/product/adobe-illustrator/80

True, shredded could indicate multiple problems, or an exaggeration of the problem. The on-board test cut on mine does a star and a square, but yeah, it's a small cut, maybe half inch square, shouldn't be shredding anything no matter how bad the cutter is setup. Tam, your test cut, was is the on-board test, or a simple file you created and sent to the cutter? Start with the on-board test cut. If that works then we likely have a software issue. If it does not work then a hardware issue, likely the Z-chip.

Skeeter, I think you missed the part in his post where he said the arm doesn't go up and down any more. So most likely the Z chip has gone bad and needs to be replaced. Other possible failure would be a wire to the solenoid has become disconnected. I believe they are soldered in place so they shouldn't come loose but a wire could break.

Because SVG is an open format not all programs implement it exactly the same way. I suspect what is happening here is the way Inkscape implements the rounded corners is not supported in SCALP. When you save it off as an EPS the box with rounded corners which is an object is converted to a path and therefor opens in SCALP exactly as you expect. As an experiment, try converting your box with rounded corners to a path and then save the file as an SVG and open it with SCALP. I suspect it'll open correctly that way.

Have you used the program in the past with Windows 10? If not, do you have another computer you could load an older version of windows on and try it there? Many on here have a cheap old computer or laptop running Windows XP solely for cutting. Changing file name extensions typically does not work as you stated. However there seems to be a trend in the vector file world of using the eps file format as the base for many programs/file formats. The various formats my have additional or slightly different encoding but it seems if the changes are minor programs can ignore them and still open the file. You might loose some information such as colors, line formatting, etc, but the heart of the file is still good.

Interesting, you sure you saved the changes? ha, that's about the only thing I can think of that would cause it to revert back to the unmerged format after reloading. As a test try saving the changes as a different file name and then reopen the new file and see if the changes were saved.

Is it only text you're having problems with? If so, have you tried converted the text to an object then weld?

Sorry, not familiar with your software but if the auto weld doesn't work, why not just do it manually? You may need to convert the font to an object first but once stuff is welded and looks correct in wire frame mode it should cut exactly as you want.

How are you trying to adjust the speed? It's just a setting on the cutter itself. If changing it on the on board menu doesn't do anything call tech support and see what they have to say.

Same question as Skeeter, what do you mean by end of life? EOL typically means the software is no longer support by the producer however that does not mean it stops working. Signblazer has been unsupported for years yet still works quite well and many use it. Windows XP went end of life but it still works and many still run systems with it. Hell the government still has computers running MSDOS that went end of life some time in the 90's.

What software are you using? The cutter doesn't care what the file is formatted in.

How small is small and what machine are you using. You might just be trying to cut smaller than what is physically possible with your setup.

Does it move up when you first turn the machine one?

I think that's just the nature of the beast. You might try laying the tape out upside down first then lay the vinyl onto it.

How about an all metal plaque and putting it at the peak of the roof.

replacing the mother board with an arduino won't make the MH any better. You might be able to program smoother acceleration that might help slightly, but not enough to make it worth it. To make the MH truely better you'd need to replace the motors to start, get better rollers, bearings, belts, etc. Depending on what you're doing the MH can do quite well, and you will get a better understanding of all the little settings and tweaks can have an impact on the results that would be masked by a higher end machine. If you can exchange it with out much cost go for it, but don't be disheartened if you have to keep it. It has served me well for several years although I only use it as a hobby and don't usually make anything too big.

If it was a higher end cutter the USB cable would be better, but this is a MH, that the USB connection is nothing more than a cheap USB to serial adapter chip. So using the comm port on the computer is better and more reliable because you do not need to convert between USB and serial communications. And just because something is old does not mean it's out dated. The 9pin comm port is frequently used for all kinds of test equipment because it is so simple, and supported by nearly all operating systems. The only thing that makes it outdated is the fact that so many computer manufactures today do not put a comm port on the mother board but instead expect people to use a USB to serial adapter which also then requires a 3rd party driver which is just one more thing to not work.

Interesting, that appears to be telling you how to change the baud rate setting on the cutter. So I'd say, since your software can't be set to anything lower than 9600, to check the setting on the cutter and set it to 9600 if it is not already. I am running Win7, using Inkscape to cut, connected with a comm cable and have mine set to 9600 and it works just fine. Something about the USB driver might require the slower speed, and is why it's specified in that document.

He's using the comm cable connection so the suggestions regarding USB will not be relevant. 9600 baud should work and is what is called out in the users manual. Might double check the setting on the cutter, although I can't find anything in the manual telling you how to change it so it might not be something that can be changed/checked. Using the comm cable, the driver shouldn't matter either. The driver is for the USB connection.

If the force is light enough it won't, but it won't cut well either, as you've discovered.

I'd have to double check the spec sheet, but I believe vinyl is recommended to be stored at about 65 and below 75. Don't remember exactly, I just remember it was a pretty small range and colder than I typically keep my house in the summer time.