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Showing content with the highest reputation on 05/09/2019 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    Im pretty new to all this, but this was a pretty cool project I got to try out for someone. I made a flag on AI (New to that as well), distressed it and divided it into two sections, one for each pane of glass. It was cut out of 751 Matte Black. Vinyl was super easy to weed, but my real problem was with my medium tack xfer tape. It took 3 prints and a lot of swearing to get it right and there are a couple spots im a little unhappy about, but no one knows but me! For the one I'm going to put on for my client, I think im going to try a high tack tape, then wet apply it and wet down the tape before removal to hopefully loosen the adhesive a little. I have a few other people interested in having these mailed out, so I'm trying to come up with the best way to ship them out. Im thinking in a rolled/triangle mailer with instructions, a small bottle of rapid tac and a squeegee. Perhaps I'll sell the install equipment as an orginal upgrade? Any ideas would be appreciated!
  2. 2 points
    I do both . my first knockout was hemi decals for the hood on a white dodge truck. he wanted white to show up between the red and black . so instead of layering white vinyl between , I used the knockout option. I think turned out a very clean look
  3. 2 points
    I've used flat black vinyl on cloroplast with fluorescent vinyl letters with good luck. Just a suggestion,. If you paint the cloroplast, give the paint enough time to dry. Some paint will off gas and create air bubbles under the Vinyl.
  4. 1 point
    You just let the secret out!!!!! I sell various style of flags for Jeep's, trucks/SUV panaramic roof, rear center windows, rear side windows, etc. I ship in a box that 22x6x6 USPS First Class for anything under 15.99 oz and priority triangle box over 1 lb. I try to keep it less than 22" length to fit the box and send First Class but if it's over that I also have 30" box which will always be ship priority.
  5. 1 point
    Because of circumstances, I have a nearly endless supply of old 4x8 voting signs made of coroplast. I also have 20 acres of hiking trails, off roading trails and a private gun range that I make signs for, so I use those old signs since they're just for me. I tried a bunch of different methods of painting the coroplast with not very much luck until I found that if I use Rustoleum's plastic primer first, then plastic paint over that, it seemed to last and not peel off. But in my case, I could still see some of the screen printed lettering on the voting sign and didn't really like that, so now I just cover the entire sign in whatever vinyl color I want for the background, then layer the vinyl letters over that. Here is a recycled trail sign covered in brown 651 then white for the lettering.
  6. 1 point
    ditto! If precision is something that's going to be critical - which really depends on how you (or your customer) critiques your work, that may be a deciding factor. For me, personally, it takes me less time to layer over trying to do an exact application of individually cut color going on one at a time. If you're doing batting helmets, then keep in mind that's an application you'll have to do several times, and not just a one and done thing. I'd say, test one method out, and then test the other.
  7. 1 point
    It depends on the project and personal preference. If you're happy with the results that's all that really matters. punching stuff out so that you are not layering the vinyl can make for a smooth finish, but getting things to line up exactly so that there is no gap or overlap can be very tricky and the larger the decal harder it can be.