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resendiz520

Cobra ink High temp Ink problems

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That isn't good should be alll solid lines as I am sure you know.  Also have you set the alignment and so forth...

 

Do you have the ciss on that printer Ted?

 

OK Ted you cant switch back and forth with the high temp ink and the sublimation ink.  Way to much trouble. You need one printer for sublimation (high temp) and another (which you have  with pigment ink. You can't switch back and forth

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Well since you had the wrong side of the paper that will do it, You are using sublimation products correct?  License Plates made for sublimation not just any metal plate or mug?  They have to be coated with poly? The next question if thats yes ,  where did you get them?  They are not all created equal and you really have to watch where you get them from?

Place such as Conde, Coastal & Acp are some of the places you want to be dealing with not ebay. 

 

What are all those scratches I see on the plate, you did remove the plastic coating that was on the p[ate before pressing?

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Yeah I just did an alignment before the cleanings and test prints and yes this is the WF1100 from Cobra. If I go over to high temp it would be for good but obviously I should not buy new ink for this thing.

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Here is mine I just did

post-2057-0-29029700-1369941956_thumb.jp

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It looks like there is significant issues with the left black nozzle check (first image), and why is there black in the yellow nozzle check pattern (2nd image)?

 

When I've had any issues, it was with missing segments, like the way the magenta and cyan nozzle patterns look in the 2nd image - a single head cleaning and they all come out as nice solid lines.

 

My latest printer, an Epson 4020 is from Cobra Ink and I'm 100% happy with it and the service and support I've got from Cobra Ink so far.

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I just ran upstairs, turned the WF1100 on, ran a nozzle check and got this:

 

post-24492-0-44347100-1369942984_thumb.j

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No matter how many head cleanings I do there are always bad spots. Everything I print has lines through it where the color is different. Another weird thing is that every once in a while ink will get on the paper in clumps. I think it is from the foam pad under where the print head travels. I have soaked up the ink from it before and wiped the surfaces down so it would not get ink on the paper. Looks like it's time to soak up some more ink. 

post-12577-0-15499200-1369943434_thumb.j

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Thats just how my printer was! In the end there were only maybe one or two little lines missing that was messing up the entire image. And yes I am using all sublimation products from coastal. And those scratches you see are part of the design but the like white dots, it looks like the printer did not print that. I am testing it out the right way as we speak

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With that black in the yellow nozzle check my first thought would be printhead clearance issues.

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Flipping the paper did it. Small minor details i need on my part but It Looks awesome. The black is actually Black! Thanks guys for all your help. I wouldve just taken up Richards precious work time. Thanks! 

post-45128-0-60455000-1369944302_thumb.j

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thats what is great - bouncing things off each other to figure things out

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Another question for you guys. I am using coastal's 15oz mugs and I was wondering what temp and what time are you guys pressing ?

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Mug press I would go 400 degrees for six or 7 minutes.  That looks a lot better Also not sure how long you are pressing them for but I would try 400 degree firm pressure for around 2 minuteson the plates.

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I have an older model of the uscutters 6 in 1 heat press. It comes with a mug press. The first mug I had pressed I did 370 for 75 seconds and it started to burn the paper.

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Is your 370 Celsius or Fahrenheit? My USCutter heat press in Celsius. 370ºC = 698.00ºF

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there is no way at 370 actual temp you are burning paper - something is way off - the ink I think sublimates at around 385 on the coolest things I have done - the only time I saw burned paper though was when my current hotronix has to have the heat calibrated after removing a rubber coating on the platen side that the guys at hotronix never knew they had used - it was factory though and after removing it my temps were way high and needed calibrated - than all good!

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Yes I agree even the burned paper shouldn't affect the print but I think that gun might be off,  I always add time if something is coming out light rather than pressure  I was going to say add time if its only 370 but it wont burn paper at that temp

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Actually I pulled out the user manual and set up the press for mugs. The initial temp is 230 and highest temp 330 for 40 seconds. So it takes a little more than a minute to reach the highest temp from the initial temp. once it reaches 330 then it goes for 40 sec. The paper still looks dark brown and burnt but the mug looks awesome. I just used the right side of the paper and everything is coming out perfect!

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looks much better and the fade at the bottom isn't bad at all for a press- how is it neat the handle?

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I think I need to extend the image a bit more closer to the handle but the edges are nice straight and clean

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The classic sci-fi novel Farenheit 451 is named after the temperature at which paper ignites (it's a dystopian future where "Firemen" burn books to get rid of them).  If you're paper is burning at "370° F" then there is something wrong with your paper, or something wrong with your thermal measuring device

 

The lowest temperature items that I press are the aluminum business cards from LRI and they press at 370° for 40 seconds when doing double sided designs, or 385° for less time for single sided designs.  I think that's getting pretty close to the lowest temps at which dye sublimation will actually occur.

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so is there a special press for stuff like plates and tiles etc?  Surely my tshirt press won't work.

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