12" Cutter, good value?

[NukleoN 34]

Hi there,

I'm an artist in the video game business and I've gotten the idea to start making my own vinyl decals, especially since I tend to have project motorcycles or cars and always need custom or specific decals. I spent $30 on one custom single decal recently, and it was only 1 color. The shipping itself is a monster. And of course, if I mess up a decal I gotta order again, pay for it, wait for shipping and re-apply. Seems like I am a good candidate for a cutter, eh?

So, I am definitely going to get a cutter, and I've been looking at the USCutters, but which one? I was thinking about a 12" desktop model, but who knows, I might need to make bigger graphics later and it seems like most vinyl comes in 24" wide rolls. Seems like a 25" cutter is the way to go!

What are these printers capable of? I see people making shirts, are you simply printing on iron-on material of some sort? How useful are contour cuts for a printer, and should this be a serious consideration? I have some full-color art I wouldn't mind putting on stuff, so being able to contour-cut a white printed sheet might be cool.

I am still learning all the jargon. What does it mean to 'weed' a decal, is this when you peel it off the backing paper and gather all the tiny bits that won't unstick?

Does most vinyl come with a sticky backing?

Thanks in advance. The text keeps bouncing up and down while I type, why is that?

To answer my own question, I am running the latest version of Explorer, 8.0.6. I have to run this site in compatibility mode to get it to behave whilst posting, otherwise it auto-scrolls up whilst I am typing and I can't read my own text.

[JoeBlow 5]

Hi Nukleon,

Don't buy anything under a 24" Cutter.  A printer for what you want to do is not a cheap purchase, unless you want to just use an inkjet on special paper.  The professional printers use solvent inks, there's some information on the forum about solvent printers, they are NOT CHEAP.  Now too "Weed" a decal is the removal of the unneeded vinyl after the graphic has been cut.  It's usually pulled from the backing paper with tweezers leaving the graphic remaining on the backing paper.  The graphic is then covered with an Application Tape to keep all it's components in place while sticking to the substrate (the surface it is applied).  I hope this some help to you.

Joe

[NukleoN 34]

Hi Nukleon,

Don't buy anything under a 24" Cutter.  A printer for what you want to do is not a cheap purchase, unless you want to just use an inkjet on special paper.  The professional printers use solvent inks, there's some information on the forum about solvent printers, they are NOT CHEAP.  Now too "Weed" a decal is the removal of the unneeded vinyl after the graphic has been cut.  It's usually pulled from the backing paper with tweezers leaving the graphic remaining on the backing paper.  The graphic is then covered with an Application Tape to keep all it's components in place while sticking to the substrate (the surface it is applied).  I hope this some help to you.

Joe

Thanks Joe!

Cool, I am definitely not gonna go under 24". Is it true that most vinyl has an adhesive backing or is this a special type I have to look for specifically? Thanks for the rundown on the application tape, I was wondering about that.

Good to have so many people here who are knowledgeable about this stuff.

Few more questions:

1. Do I need a contour cutting vinyl-cutter or, can I easily contour cut with the U.S. Cutter 571 machine? The contour-cutting machine with the eye is a lot pricier.

2. With contour-cutting, that's basically a straight-up print on some color with contours cut by registration marks? Is this correct, or is contour-cutting something else?

3. Can I use Illustrator to make my EPS file and then bring them to the software that comes with the machine? Any downside to this?

Thanks again, getting closer to making a purchase. 

[haumana 1,221]

N - As far as I know, the LaserPoint (LP w/the eye) is the only USC cutter that has the contour feature. While I have never used the feature myself, there are several tutorials on this forum that will show how it's done - as well as tips, tricks, and troubles. If you have the ability to print on to pressure sensitive vinyl and need cutting around the design, then the LP is the way to go. I don't print on vinyl so I haven't had the chance.

Yes, you can use Illy to create a vector graphic. Although if you're searching for something that you know has been done - often it's convenient to vectorize the raster image with Inkscape.

Inkscape is a free (open source) app that will convert raster to vector (single color). It's easy, and I high recommend it.

As far as vinyl size ... if you aren't cutting stuff that's huge, 15" vinyl is a good versatile size. That's just my personal

I forgot to add. USC Cutters work well with SignBlazer Elements (SBE). Easy software, free of charge. Find the trial version (fully functioning, just has a opening nag screen), and you can practice all you like before the cutter arrives.

[Rodger 527]

  "  Is it true that most vinyl has an adhesive backing  ? "

yes . all vinyl comes with an adhesive backing . The vinyl that gets heat pressed onto T-Shirts is a specialty vinyl & that gets "melted" into the shirt .

The contour cutting is for cutting around an image that has been digitially printed on vinyl  . If you need that sort of stuff , better to out-source it . Several members here offer that 

[NukleoN 34]

Cool, thanks for the responses! I ended up buying a 24" LaserPoint cutter with the contour-cut feature. I guess I'll worry about heat-press stuff later. Oooh good tip about the software though, I'll get it ready before the cutter gets here.

Can't wait!

[sarconastic 29]

There's a lot of good info on here in the laserpoint forum, make sure to check it out after you get your cutter. I have the LP 24 and love it to death.

Kevin