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The saw I have is the hitachi C10FCE2. I got it on sale for $99 from amazon. It cuts down vinyl just fine; the sihl 3988 24"x65' is about the max I can cut with it I tried to cut my roll of Oraguard 210 36"x150' and it did cut, but I had to make a few passes rotating it inbetween. The cut came out ok, but not as smooth as a single pass cut. This is the one I'm looking at getting to replace the hitachi. ryobi is hit or miss with a lot of their tools; make sure to check up on the reviews and warranty. Also, some home depot's will let you use a harbor freight 20% off coupon; a local one near me did when I bought my ridgid drill press. If they won't accept that, go to the post office and get a change of address packet. It has a 10% off lowe's coupon that home depot will accept.

Thank you for your fast reply. I tried what you said. I keep getting the same thing no matter what changes I make. I'm sure I'm missing something. I am using the modification. But I am using the ct-630g - The ct-630 will not work for me for what ever reason? I know I'm putting the mod in the correct places. I looked at the bottom after send. Nothing flashing. I do have the laser point manual alignment. when I click for next target. It move to the next one and passes it about a quarter inch for each target. I do each target. Then it cut's. But still way off. If I go by inches 1/8" to the right of image 1/2" above image I cant get it to move for me. Maybe I'm not doing my adjustments the correct way in the mod 09:$1016.0,-.172,-.600,0,8388807,$ I use the cutter y - x I will put the laser on edge of square. hit the home button. then move in the direction of the line that was drawn. lets say my x= -1.25 and my y= -3.42 Then I would mod like this 09:$1016.0,-2.250,-3.420,0,8388807,$ correct if it's + or 09:$1016.0,+2.50,+3.420,0,8388807,$ Correct I can only say I have made extreme changes just to get a reaction. Nothing changes . Maybe bigger changes or I'm doing it all wrong. I see most people are having success. I'm sure I'm missing something. If only the laser point driver would work. one other note. I send the untitled.job to cutter. I tried the save as Native.plt When I go to cut the .plt file. It dose allow me to adjust to contour targets. it just cut immediately. Thanks again Wait. I got something. I did realize that the distance between the cutting blade and the laser is that about that distance. If I alien with the knife. it is almost on. Only because it's hard to see. I need now to figure how to get the laser offset corrected?

that would be my thought as well. i have to press down pretty damn hard with a utility knife, much harder than id imagine virtually any vinyl cutter generating that kind of downforce, and i often still have to make additional passes.

Ok this is just getting confusing with these profile pics :- Think I'm going to go bury my head until the blizard passes - maybe when i come out of hiding the 4um will return to it's normal insanity

Boy how quickly a year passes! This little machine saved my business!! Wow, I didn.t lnow could do so much stuff! My LP has never complained or ran into a job it couldn't handle! So far this year I've created applique decals, emblems, heat transfer vinyl, stensils for etched glass, paint stensils and signage! That $300.00 investment earned me on the high side of $10K. Thank you US Cutter, and thank you for making an affordable workhorse like the LP24.

You want the screen to snap off the shirt as the squeegee passes. You also need a real, full size (screen print, about 70 durameter) squeegee to cover in one pass.

Picture frame turned plaque for my buddy's work. He works in the detail dept. which never gets any awards in the dealership... Black mug we made for his friend. Wording was done with 2 passes, and the mustache was with a third, and came out really deep. She liked it though.

I seem to be having the same problem... I'm working on a job with many 4 foot long passes. It does about 3 passes and then encounters an error and stops abruptly. I've got the cutter grounded to the stand by way of a screw from the bottom of the cutter connected to one of the screws in the stand. The machine is plugged into a grounded power strip. I'm really not sure where I'm going wrong and I've wasted 12 ft of vinyl on this thing so far. I also noticed that the job is stopping at the exact same spot everytime I tried running the job. Could it also be something about how I've set up my file? I'm using illustrator to vectorize a psd (psd -> illustrator -> live trace -> expand -> save as .eps (illustrator version -> open in signblazer then send it to the cutter). I'm a noob obviously, but I feel like I'm at my wits end. I've been through the forums and read the noob step by step but...urg. Any help would be much appreciated.

cheerz buddy, will give it a go. the tracking is pretty accurate, i did a fairly complex design in another program and it must have been the file but it did 2-3 passes near as exact.

I am running flexi 8.1 In cut/plot > Options there is "advance after plot" I have had that on and set to "passes:1"

If it's not closing contours on a machine test with a pen, there is something else going on. I wouldn't even be messing with software until it passes a self test with a pen.

I've had tremendous difficulty solving the static issue with my machine. I've ordered the memory upgrade and ensured a proper ground from the cutter to the stand. No help. Running an MH-871 with AI and SignCut on a PC with Windows XP. Here's my question in long form: In my experience over the years doing drafting and blueprinting there was always a problem with static building up on the medium (paper, vellum, etc.). When changing toner cartridges in a laser printer, I noticed a copper "brush" along the back of the machine. I'm pretty sure that is used to dissipate the static on the paper as it passes through the pinch rollers. Does this application require any active control, or is it a passive element that just goes to ground? After unsuccessfully trying to find a compatible part to achieve this, I'm thinking I may have to develop the same type of part on my own. I've had to manufacture a lot of the tools and machines I use for other types of printing, so I'm well versed in fabrication but don't want to proceed unless my theory is well placed. Here's where I'm beginning... I'm thinking of taking a length of stranded copper wire (small gauge speaker wire) cutting it into short segments to form bristles. Those bristles will be wrapped individually around a larger gauge, solid core wire (12 gauge) and once wrapped (about 10 strands per inch) and hot glued(to form a brush along the wire), attached to a stand off which, in turn, is attached to the cutter stand and finally grounded to the stand and thus grounded to the cutter. My understanding of static dissipation is that the brush does not need to be in direct contact with the vinyl, but only in close proximity (about 1/8 in.). The main idea is to pass the vinyl over the brush while loading it into the cutter. If placed correctly, even when the vinyl is back-fed by the machine, it will still be in close enough proximity to discharge static as it builds up during cutting. Sound like a good start? Need some feedback if possible. I'm starting the project this weekend.

Make sure you're running this site in 'Compatibility Mode' in Internet Explorer, there's a bug which prevents you from typing more than a certain amount without compatibility mode. I know because I tend to write rather long posts sometimes myself. This fix applies to any Simple Machines Forum (SMF) where you experience this issue. The higher-end cutters give you some features like 'contour cutting', where you will have a laser 'eye' which can read registration marks and contour-cut your inkjet prints. This alone is a pretty powerful feature, though some have made it work on cutters without the laser. The value brand which can do this is a Laserpoint 24 or 36 from U.S. Cutter, a.k.a. the LP24/LP36. The Graphtec CE5000 can do contour cuts as well, and is even better because it will seek out these reg marks on its own (whereas the LP24 needs you to manually align the laser with the reg marks). Aside from that, in something like a Graphtec you're getting a great reputation and overall better build quality over the budget cutters, but those who own a Graphtec can expound on this much more than I can. I have the LP24 from U.S. Cutter. It's about a 600 dollar machine, but it has the larger cutting field, the laser point (which I use to do a lot of contour-cutting) and a stand (so I don't need desktop space and it holds the cutter nicely when making busy cuts). I've found that with the right settings, I can get very nice detailed cuts with the LP24 and overall I am happy with it. I would prefer the auto registration-mark alignment found in the Graphtec CE5000, but the Graphtec 24" costs 1495.00. The bigger cutting field does count for a lot, if you find yourself making big graphics or large quantities of some smaller graphic. I don't tend to make a lot of big graphics, but knowing I could is important. I have used the full width of my cutter on very big jobs where I had to cut and weed 500 decals. That width really came in handy getting the most out of 24" vinyl. I think it's probably easier to find 24"vinyl than the 12"/15" wide rolls, and I am guessing companies which stock vinyl stock the more popular sizes (24") and in more colors. This is one of the reasons I went with the 24" over smaller craft cutters. As for pressure, if you're cutting vinyl you almost never need max pressure. I generally use 110 grams for most vinyl, and 130 for thicker stuff and two passes on some contour cuts if the stuff is really thick. Consider the support as well. The U.S. Cutter products are pretty darn well supported....just look at how active this forum is. I am sure there are forums which support other cutters, but it's nice to know the company which distributes my cutter is a few clicks away.

Hi there! A week or so ago, I wasted a good bit of a pack of Papilio Photo Glossy Adhesive Paper because suddenly, my contour cutting wasn't coming out right with simple oval shapes. The contour would always be about 2-3mm too low, ruining all my decals. My method is to print on the top of a piece of adhesive paper, which allows me to flip the paper around and try again in the event of a mishap, and allows two passes on one paper sheet. It's a great method, but not with this paper! After investigating my files and methods, I'm theorizing based on the data that the fault is not my method, alignment or file...it's the paper!! Here's why I think this is the case: Taking known-good files I was able to get nice contour cuts on Silver Metallic and Glow-in-the-Dark paper, also from Papilio. Nice stuff, not too thick. The Papilio Photo Glossy Adhesive Paper is VERY thick. It's almost like a thin Bristol Board, and when you weed it, it's like pulling back thin cardboard with a very thin backing sheet. This is the thickest paper by far I've ever printed/cut. Using a known-good file, I can print/cut the Papilio Photo Adhesive Paper as I normally would (near the top of the page) and the contour is always messed up, about 2-3mm lower than it should be. However, if I print in the middle and lower part of the Papilio Photo Glossy Adhesive Paper and cut it, then the contour comes out ok. My theory is that somehow, the thickness of the paper is actually messing up its own cut near the top, but cuts ok near the middle and lower part of the paper. I don't know why this is other than the flexing tension of the paper and the weight of it as it hangs out of the cutter while being cut at the top. Where near the middle, it should cut better with a balanced weight, though I can't explain why it cuts well near the bottom. I wasted nearly a whole pack last time thinking it was something amiss with my file, when it's this particular paper itself behaving oddly when being contour-cut, and only near the top of the paper with my 'save paper' method. Anyone else ever have this kind of issue with Papilio Photo Glossy Adhesive Paper? Thanks. I might take this 'known good file' and try a top print/cut again just to see what happens, but I am sure I'll get the same result I did with the 8 sheets I wasted last week. This repeatable error is what got me to try just filling the mid/lower portion. I cut the mid-lower print and sure enough it looks good, exactly as I theorized...I am just not sure why, exactly. Any feedback is welcome.

No, I am not comparing John to my mom directly. I am simply saying that NOT getting tickets does NOT mean you are a better (skill, observation, care) driver than someone who DOES get tickets. Yes, it might mean I get caught doing 80 on the freeway sometimes, but in L.A. almost everyone in the number 1-3 lanes on the freeway goes about 80, barring a few who are too slow (or trucks and buses) in the right lanes. This makes the freeway one giant speed trap. Of course, the slow guy driving 65 in the left lane is technically obeying the speed limit, but I guarantee you, do 65 in the fast lane on any freeway during free-flowing conditions and you will be inciting road rage and aggressive passes, high-beams, etc. FALSE. THis is the very thing in question. You can't just assume the point, it has to be proved. The only thing you can infer from someone who doesn't get tickets is that they don't get tickets. They might be older, female, in a car which blends in more (think soccer mom) or they may simply put fewer miles on their vehicles than others. If you want to compare skill, compare AT-FAULT ACCIDENTS, not just traffic infractions. We're talking skill, observation, care, etc. If Richard Petty got a ticket, he's still a better driver than most of us. Some of the best drivers in the world also probably like to drive at a good clip, and they are more likely to get tickets. I think drivers who drive too SLOW are more dangerous, because they create unwitting obstacle courses for everyone else. Also, I've gotten some tickets but I also beat most of them, which means a NOT GUILTY verdict and thus, not guilty of any infraction. Yes, but you don't know how I drive. I have zero at-fault accidents. My thing is, I like a decent flow with momentum, and slow jerks who clog the fast lanes cause lane-changes. Lane-changes attract cop attention more than people who will just sit behind some slowpoke forever, until he decides to pull his head out of his bum. Again, there are good drivers who get tickets, and some very BAD drivers who don't, because there are a multitude of ways to create traffic hazards. I would like to remind you that John is making way more claims about my character than I ever have about his. I am remind you to look at both sides.

I've discovered this too...all the vinyls are different thicknesses, especially specialty vinyl like metallics, glow in the dark, even the standard white Papilio glossy is very thick. Some of them take two contour cutting passes to get to the backing paper.

Thanks everyone. I can not install signblazer until I have the machine, it prompts you to plug in the USB cable during the install. The guys says he has the driver, so I should be all set when I get it home. Based on everything, I doubt it will go smoothly, it never does for some reason. I am going with SignBlazer as my primary software for cutting, if possible. For Coreldraw, won't I need some sort of Coreldriver to comminicate? I wanted to try Artcut like I said before, but I went to install Artcut on my laptop with vista for the first time. The program installs fine, but I can not comminicate with my old cutter. There is a UCB driver disc I put in, but it does not install with vista. So that looks like a dead end for. With Vista, how do I see which port I plugged with USB cable into the computer? In Artcut, it prompts you to select which Com port, I tried them all but no luck Sometimes computers just really frustrate the crap out of me. I wish I understood this stuff more. Once I get the machine (assuming it passes the quality and funcution tests) I'll keep you all posted, I am sure I will be needing more assistance, again, can't thank all of you enough.

Did the cabinet company hire you? If they did, wouldn't that make them the client? Harm Normally I talk to the homeowner and then do the work for the cabinet company. Right now I do work for about 12. I tell them up front that sometimes talking to their client helps me understand what will work best and I never have an issue. This guy I do direct business with as I use him to cut my frame designs on a CNC router that he owns. Problem is that he is a friggin know it all! So I will give you this senerio, his client wants the design from the online glass etching company and I said I wasn't going to steal the design. A month passes and he comes to me and says that is what she wants so cant this one time you do it? I said no but I can design her something that may work. I supplied him with 4 designs of which my least favorite was the laundry basket. They chose the laundry basket because it was a scene and on a shorter piece of glass say 50"T x 24"W this would be ideal. This glass is 84"T with and arch and 27"W leaving it hard to layout as the proportions don't work out well. Normally I would decline the job but told him I would do it as long as he had 100% approval. The homeowner was force fed this design and she doesn't 100% like it but he will not take any other design to her. Last night I told him that I am passing on the job

If anything would I would say it would be the GCC Jaguar IV (Or Zencut black...same machine) They seem to have the most downforce of anything I have looked at (600G). For comparison Most vinyl is cut at 100g or below. Many sign programs like flexi you can set it to run multiple passes on the cuts, so even if it didn't cut through the first time, you could get a real good score on it to pop it out. My refine will cut cardstock just fine, and I know gasket is multiple times thicker than cardstock but I would be interested to see if it would work. Might be hard on the cutter though, and you would go through blades pretty quick I would bet.

Hello Everyone, Hoping someone on here can help me out... Signcut makes 2-3 passes over the same cut even though I have it set to only make 1 pass. Not sure what i am doing wrong if anything. I was able to reduce the number of nodes the vectorized image had so I don't think thats the problem. Any help would be appreciated! Here's my setup: Macbook OSx 10.5.8 Signcut Pro w/Mac Build 1.07 AI CS4 Maybe the trace option in AI is causing this? I just need it to stop after the first pass and move on to the next, you know...lol! Thanks!

I will assume that you have the 24" PCUT. If so, you have 3 options.... Put a piece of tape across the groove area. Watch your cut being made until it passes the groove. Both of these you have stated or you can buy the flatbed tray that US Cutter offers on their website. http://www.uscutter.com/Flatbed-Tray-for-Creation-PCut-Set-of-2_p_403.html Personally, I just put the tape across there & never minded it.

Stick to your guns and if they do not like it tell them to jump off a roof!!! That price IMO is too little! I mean there would be a design charge for custom sizing and then a per piece charge. I would say $2 each if they take 50 or less with a minimum of $85 and if they take 100 or more $1.35 minimum! Dont let a customer dictate price EVER, what it does is sends out the message that you dont know what you are doing and I honestly think you do. Large sign companies would charge more and anyone that has a rep whould as well. I get this PITAs in my glass business as well. They want free samples, prices special for them based on a large order then once the price is there for them to get there large order done they would scumbag me and buy 5! Well I put the end to that I charge for each and everything and if they do not like it I tell them to shop around and they never want to do that. Since I have done this better then 2.5 years ago I have grown quite a rep and people respect me for my honesty up front! SOLUTION: Tell him you made a mistake that you are willing to stand behind but if he passes you will need to charge more. Keep your price at the price that you have and tell him that is for a minimum of 100 take it or leave it and if he leaves it the cost will be $2 each. This is your business and not his, you need to make money at this business or you will fail! Trust me you will win doing it this way and you will feel good for the job when you get it and you will trust me!

OK, I'm having trouble with my font getting 2 passes when cutting. I believe its because I'm adding stroke to make it thicker in Illi. The font is thin in some places which makes it hard to weed. So, is there a trick to make the stroke one path so that my machine doesn't think its two objects?

As this is printed with a solvent 1440 dpi machine, if you get close (5 cm distance) you can see pixels. If this passes at 60 KM/HR who cares about pixels...................... It is reasonable clean concerning pixels. Paco

It's printop tpx sq. I printed it on the red just to find out if it was going to bleed out pink. i expected to do at least two passes. But after the one pass the coverage was so good there was no since in another.