darcshadow
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Posts posted by darcshadow
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I believe that should be Avery, guessing auto correct dropped the A. ha
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The MH's are pretty "dumb" and things like speed and pressure can only be set through the control panel on the machine.
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Have you tried setting up your anti-virus to ignore the signblazer program? The code of signblazer has long been thought to be a virus by most scanners simply because the program is so old and how it did things are not considered "safe" in today's computing world and anti-virus programs think something suspicious is going on.
You should be able to setup your On Demand scan to ignore individual programs that you know are safe and ok to run.
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I'd have to double check, but I believe that is all it should show up as in Device manager. The "USB" connection is nothing more than a cheap USB-2-Serial converter. Just point your software to Comm 7 and you should be good to go.
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Not advocating anything illegal but this design is not much more than a bunch if circles and pretty easy to recreate . What vector program are you using? Basically just draw a circle then another and another then cut and weld till you get the results you want. We can't make thia for you but we can give you the tools.
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Auto tracing is iffy at best in most programs. If you have a really high resolution image auto trace can do a decent job, but best bet is to manually trace/recreate an image. In this example, it wouldn't be too hard, the shield design is pretty basic and could be done by hand. The fonts will be a little trickier but most decent design programs and distort fonts as in the design. The only thing you wouldn't get would be the grunge/worn look, and with cut vinyl you really want to stay away from that type of design anyway.
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Kind of doubt you'll find a legal pattern to buy since most of what I saw on the google search had obvious copyright and trademarked images in the mix.
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I don't know how the original poster did it, but I would do it by making two outlines. Make a white outline around the word, then make a second outline of the white in the grey/silver color, then delete the white outline.
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Making the switch to a true serial connection, or a good adapter is the way to go. You can run a cheap serial cable 50ft with little to no problems.
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Static would be my first guess, and easiest to remedy. Ground the stand that the vinyl rest on. You can either run a grounding wire from the stand to a ground point on the cutter, or to a local ground such as the ground pin on a standard outlet.
Second possible problem is that you're using a mac. The MH cutters are sold as not compatible with macs. I suspect this is more an issue with the cheap usb chipset than anything else. which brings us to the 3rd thing.
Are you using USB or serial? Serial is recommended as the USB-2-Serial chipset built into the MH is cheap junk. If you don't have a true serial connection you can get a tripp-lite adapter. It is the only one known to work every time, all the time.
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It's a streaming service, a little like Netflix or Hulu, but it's people playing video games.
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Bit late now I realize, but this is one of those reasons why you always make note of the settings you start with before making any changes.
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Also, what software are you using?
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Don't think I'd want to try reflective as a stencil, that stuff is a pain in the butt to removed, rips real easy.
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This only accounts for the cone shape and getting the design to be straight, does not account for the perceived width verses actual width of the image.
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A string and straight edge would work. Lay the straight edge across the top of the cup and set it for the width of your image, then take the string and wrap it around the cup to get the length of the arc. Then just stretch the image out to the length of the arc. That should work, I like knowing the math as well.
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That'll get you close, but not exact, and there's the question of not knowing both blue and red, you only know one or the other. I edited my previous post so you might have missed my equation that I came up with.
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Wildgoose, I don't think we're talking about the same thing. Here's a diagram. In order to get the red square to appear square on the cylinder, it will need to be stretched to the size of the blue rectangle.
Go-C, after doing the math, 10% is pretty close to what the math comes back with. It'll vary some depending on size of cup/cylinder and size of image but 10% is a good ballpark.
After some more thinking I think I decided I want to shrink the height rather than change to width so here is my new equation.
H = h/w*D*sin(w/D)
- h - height of image
- w - width of image
- D - diameter of cup
- H - new height for image
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Are you wanting to use the vinyl just as a stencil? If so, I've found that if you put the cup in just long enough to get the powder to flow, then pull it out, let it cool a little then remove the vinyl and stick it back in for the full cure it works quite well. Timing on removing the vinyl is key. If it is too hot adhesive residue gets left on the cup and is a pain to get off after the full bake. However if you wait till the vinyl and powder are too cold removing the vinyl is harder and the lines are not as crisp. For designs with a lot of pieces to remove I will use a heat gun to keep the vinyl and powder in the sweet spot for removal.
If you're putting the decal on to stay and then clear coating over it, I have not tried that yet, but I've read online where most powders can be baked at a slightly lower temperature for a longer period of time. There are also some lower temperature clear coats that cure as low as 325 to 350.
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Did you try google and if so what did you search for? I simply put in snowmobile tracks graphics and found tons of different tread patterns. None of them have the ski tracks from the front it, but that'd be easy enough to add manually.
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Getting is straight isn't my problem, The pattern along path in Inkscape takes care of that for me. The problem is say a 3" square when applied to a cylinder will not appear to be 3" wide anymore because of the curve, it'll appear to be slightly less. So you either have to make the image shorter or wider to keep the original aspect ratio. This is not usually an issue for most designs but I have one that is, at least it is to me, because I have noticed it, and now every time I look at it I see it.
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After a bit more thinking I don't think this is as complicated as I thought it might be. Dusting off my high school geometry I think the following will give the width you'd need to stretch an image to get it to appear at the correct aspect ratio.
Stretch Width = arcsin(image width/Diameter of cylinder)
Need to experiment, but I believe if I stretch the image as specified by the equation and then run it through the cone correction tool when applied to a glass it should be straight and have the desired appearance.
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I know how to account for the cone shape of a cup to get the image to go straight, my question is does anyone have a formula that accounts for how the image looks on the vertical curve. For example, if you place a square on a cylinder and then look at it straight on, depending on the radius of the cylinder and the size of the square, it will look like a rectangle. It will appear to be taller than wide. Anyone have a calculation to compensate for this?
MH721 and Win 10
in General discussion
Posted
I think it is redsail.