darcshadow

Here's my go. Hornet.svg

Here's your file cleaned up. You may still want to do some welding or cutting depending on how you want to layer the actual decal. BearArms.svg

What you're running into is trying to weld colors that are "layered" with other colors. For example, if you weld the butt of the gun and the black on the bear, you either loose the black on the bear or the butt is not on top of the bear. What you have to do is use the bear to cut the butt of the gun before you weld it with the black on the bear, this way only the black you want visible is actually there when you do the welding.

On whatfontis you can drag the broken portions of the letter onto each other to form the full letter. Once you do this, the best match comes back as blade runner movie font, although techincally it's a typeface.

Great find! Thanks skeeter.

I'm looking for an outdoor vinyl that is Matte Red. Best I've found so far is a wrap vinyl that comes in 60" wide rolls. I know I can cut it down and make it work but I'd rather find someting in a more standard 24" or 15" roll. Anyone have any leads on where I can get matte colors?

Tried but didn't have any luck. All I found was more of the 60" wide stuff.

For something like this you might be better off just painting or using that plasti dip stuff. Or just get the vinyl letters close and then manually trim on the car. Bit riskier but if you have a steady hand that's about the only way to get the size perfect.

Best way to learn.

I'd still suggest trying the Brightness cutoff option. The colors number only matters if you also click the Color Quantization button.

Are you using Edge Detection when you do your trace? If so switch to Brightness cutoff, that should get you the results you're after. I usually change the threashold to .55 but it can vary from image to image. Just play around and see what works best.

You need to do an expand or outline or what ever it is called in SCALP. A resize will only work for simple shapes.

I think tt's a combination of both. Product pacement is great, but at the same time fi the moron on the reality show says or does something to offend anyone the company doesn't want to be associated with it. Fictional shows get paid for some product placement, but they also have to get permision for other things, the show Sulivan and Son for example, is set in a sports bar in Pittsburg but they don't have any NFL or other major sport teams stuff on the walls because they couldn't get permision to use them.

Cool, thanks for the clarifications.

Even the new one? I've had both and haven't noticed anything missing between the UK and the new UScutter one.

Just curious, why is it anytime someone asks about this a link like the one above is given rather than a link to the uscutter download page? The file hosted there is a simple install and no longer has the annoying nag screen so I don't see the purpose of installing the old version and patching/hacking it. Am I missing something?

I'm just getting into this but I've been happy with my results so far with AO 120 grit. Bought 5lbs off of eBay for $14.

Yeah, that's what will happen with you run at a resolution that is not the same ratio as what the monitor is.

You should be able to change the resolution on the computer to match the monitor. No idea how to do it on a Mac but on windows 7 just right click anywhere on the desktop, select screen resolution ahd then pick a different resolution till you find one that fits the screen.

Depending on how you are connecting to the TV, Yes, you just need to find the right resolution setting on the computer to match up with the TV. If you're using has DVI, or HDMI out to connect to the TV then it shouldn't be a problem. If you're using an older computer that has VGA, or S-Video you may or maynot be able to adjust the resolution correctly, depends on the video card capability. You also want high resolution, not just a large screen. The higher the resolution, the more stuff you can get on your screen.

I am new to all this but from what I've been reading, AO is harder so it will etch faster and you can therefor use less of it per etch. It also can be reused several times and is generally considered safer than sand.

The pricing on that web page is misleading. I looked at one of the airplanes that was listed at $7. It's size was only 7", then there is a drop down box for selecting large sized, the 3' one was like $40 or something, I don't remember exactly but it was about what you would expect for the size.

I took a scan of my son's hand and foot and used it to make a life size template for etching which I put on some mugs for my parents. It's their first year as grandparents. Used the etching cream for these. Came out pretty pretty good. Then over Christmas I purchased an Air Eraser and tested out how it would work on a Dollar Store plastic tumbler. I was very pleased with the results.

I run it under hot water while removing the vinyl, haven't had any residue issues.

I've been using up the greenstar that I still have laying around. Will probably switch to 631 once I run out of scraps.