sandgink

What I did was to measure the door and window, open coreldraw create a rectangle of the same dimensions, then drag and drop the photo in resize it so that it fit's the rectangles and voila, I don't have to resize the graphic and it allows me to visualize form and fit. it also scares the crap out of the customer.

I don't think I can set the offset on the cutter. I set it in SB. I am going to try reducing the amount the blade sticks out and increasing the pressure and reducing the offset. Jake

Greetings all, I was wondering if anyone else had experienced this, I have a laser point using SB to cut and it doesn't seem like the cutter is cutting the entire path, it always stops just shy of the start point. leaving the scrap just barely attached. it does it with both 45 and 60 bladed. I currently have a 60 in, the offset is set at .40 is there anywhere in the software to have the path overcut the startpoint. thanks Jake

Greetings all I am in need of some guidance. with all of your past assistance I have gotten my laserpoint running like a rolex. I have done numerous stickers and window decals, and yards of heat press transfers. Here is my question, One of my satisfied customers whom I do screen printed shirts for asked me to do his store front window and door along with the back of his delivery trailer with his logo and the standard hours and contact information. I have costed the vinyl and with mark up it comes to about $30 worth of vinyl. the installation is straight up no problems there, but I have never done a store window/door and have absolutely no clue as to how to charge it. The door and window should take about 30 minutes each with measuring, cleaning, apply, squeege. The trailer probably 45 with the rivets to go over. Any estimating advice? attached is a photo of the window/door the trailer will be a dupe of the window. and no the final color is not black, that is what the customer wanted until I showed them what it would look like. PS when I sent the Customer the photo, they freaked and thought I had already gone down and installed it. all comments/advice/criticism welcome Jake

While digging through some faq's trying to fix the ancient roland they have at work one of the Roland offical faq's states that drift is caused by the feed rollers. according to them always store the feed rollers up as this prevents them from getting out of round, if you do alot of long work, you might want to invest in a couple new wheels. Jake

I see your in Iowa, where abouts, (after posting the reply I saw you are in Des Moines) I use sign blazer trial. shoot me an email sandgink@gmail.com it's too big to post here. Jake

A little over an hour, it's about 16 x 20

Greetings all, Here is a dragon I cut on my laserpoint 24 inch at speed 40 force 100 on on 3m scotchcal. I still have it on the backer cuz I'm not sure what I am going to do with it. all comments welcome good or bad. Jake

Greetings all, I recently did an order of stormtech coats for a local Bow Club, and the vinyl I used for the bowtech logo and the deer head appears to be bleeding through the vinyl. I used 2 separate kinds of vinyl, which I probably shouldn't do but hey I'm new. one was from www.silkscreeningsupplies.com the other was FLEXplus from heat transfer warehouse. the only one that appears to be bleeding is the flexplus. (see photos) I posted this question before just prior to the forum server being upgraded and the posts for that day were lost, but I remember one of the comments said that flexplus was real thin, Does anyone have a thickness list of the different vinyls. I believe I can overpress a new image to fix the problem but I need to know what materials would be thicker. I appologize the colors are off because my niece was playing with my phone and changed the camera settings. This one shows the entire back. This shows what the vinyl is doing These 2 show what the deer head is doing. I need to repair/replace this coat, but would like some advice from the P-R-O-fessionals before I do. thanks Jake

Following the Advise of Ash and Skeeter, I am getting closer, I used sign blazer and imported the eps file, after resetting the offset I have been bringing up by small increments and have backed the force off and adjusted the blade. I believe I am almost there. As soon as I get some more scrap vinyl I will get it dialed in. then I will cut the star pattern and post the results. thanks all Jake

Since Sign Pro Opens Corel directly, I am unsure what it converts them to. Jake

I design them in Corel Draw, then open it with Sign cut Pro, Sign Blazer only opens image files and you have to vector them. Sign Pro opens coreldraw directly. Jake

Vector,

Sign Cut Pro that came with a year's license with the cutter. I tried sign blazer but I got pissed about having to keep clicking trial.

Here are the follow up photos. I have tried 45 60 blades the pressure is good, I tried doubling the size of the graphic, I also cleaned up the extra nodes, my offset is set to 1mm to get the corners square, I am unsure if there are any other settings that will effect precision. The first one is what was cut, the second one is what it's suppose to look like, the third is a deer head I cut, that seem to be exactly what I designed. Jake