Kcross47601

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Posts posted by Kcross47601


  1. Maybe Madhatter will chime in. I think that DTG will be nice because of no screens to burn and register plus the amount of space a 4 or 6 color press takes up.  If I was doing a few hundred shirts a day, I would definitely go with screen printing depending on the design but I'm looking at many smaller orders of what I call onesie twosie type orders and a few business orders ranging from 10 to 75 shirts in a order.  For a small operation, if DTG would out weigh screen printing as far as time goes, I can see spending the 15,000 for a printer.  Thanks Dakota for your response.


  2. Hey guys, Been looking into expanding past HTV for shirts, hats and Koozies.  Screen printing is a option I've been looking into but the issue is not really the $10,000 cost for a decent equipment set up but the amount of floor space that everything would take to set up.  I was looking at Epson and Anojet DTG printers but I'm finding mixed reviews. I've found set-ups for use with a hat attachment but not sure if the quality of the print will be worth it. I currently do everything with HTV from regular to glitter to rhinestone. I get orders for shirts that range from one or two custom shirts all the way to 75 in multiple sizes for a business.  Does anyone here use DTG printing that may be able to give me some insight on the quality of equipment?  Thanks,  Kris



  3. JayBird, Would you take the offset out of the cut options??  I keep having trouble with the sticky flock circles not being right.  I use what The Rhinestone World and Bella Stones sold on US Cutter call a SS10 and on SCALP4, I set to SS10 to cut but brushing is rough. Almost no transfer. The stones don't like to fall in.  I have a LP2 cutter with clean cut 60 degree blade that I have set up for glitter vinyl.  I use my glitter settings and do a 2 or sometimes 3 pass cut.  The offset is at .31 and overcut is 1.02mm I think.  It was a standard setting.


  4. Sign you up was right.  The other day, I tried to do another graphic and watched how the z axis was acting.  It was not consistant with it's motion and at points would come down but could clearly see a gap between the holder and vinyl.  I ordered a new carriage and motherboard from US Cutter and found a you tube video of someone replacing a carriage on a LP2.  I had the new carrage installed in about 10 minutes and now it's cutting like new again. Guess I have a new motherboard on stand by just in case I need it later.  Thanks for the help guys.   Kris

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  5. Hey guys and gals.  On my LP2, I can be cutting Siser easy weed white which usually cuts smooth and easy with a 60 degree clean cut blade, but yesterday it started missing different areas.  I was cutting out a couple numbers for a softball jersey and looks like the blade has good down force when it starts the cut but at random points will lose downforce and barely score the material but not through to the backing.  I tried 5 times to get a good cut, adjusting the down force, blade depth, speed, and changed to a new blade with no good results. The later cuts, there are areas that look like the blade didn't score or cut at all.  I also tried to unplug my keyspan and go strait USB thinking it was a connection issue, then crawled under and checked the grounds.  With this being a newer unit, Maybe 6 months old, can the carrage be going bad? Any suggestions would be great.  I bet if I bought a higher level cutter, I wouldn't be having this problem. LOL  Thanks, Kris


  6. I contaced the coach to see if she could get with her people to get a different file.  I thought about editing out the surrounding text and doing a trace on just the crown and adding in my own stars and lettering.  Going to be all in one color with high temp vinyl anyway so coloring is not a issue.


  7. Recently was contacted by a group to do shirts for their National competition in Tennessee.  The individual coaches were given written rights to use the association logo to have support shirts made for different contestants.  I was emailed the logo by a coach to do shirts but it is in a png format. I've tried to use SCALP4 and Sign Blazer and inkscape to try to convert it to a useable trace vector.  Could it be that I'm using cheap programs or am I doing something wrong when I try to vectorize?  Any help would be great.  Thanks, Krispost-15439-0-23746200-1432633310_thumb.p


  8. Just create the marks yourself, at least 2, at the top of the design. Use shapes from the scalp library. Asterisks or addition symbols work fine. Make them a different color than the colors in the graphic. When you go to the cut screen, select a color + the registration mark color, then hit cut. Repeat for each color in the design.

     

    I attached some pics to give you a better idea...

    How did you get the lettering to outline in a different color for layering?  I can get it on the screen from the fill and stroke menu but in the cut menu none of the other colors show up.


  9. Mainly just need this type of tug.  When I search for one, it comes up with ocean liner tugs instead of this style. It's not for sale but for a personal project I'm tinkering with.  I understand the copywright issues since I had been there done that when powdercoating and heard of people that got into trouble powdercoating parts and using the monster logo in the powdercoat.


  10. I was wondering if there is a easy way to conver this to a cuttable vector without losing a lot of the detail. I tried to use inkscape to trace and convert to a eps file then import into SCALP but even after node editing, there are still paths that are not right.  Does anyone also have any other images of mushrooms like this that I may be able to download??  Thanks guys, Kris

    post-15439-0-26084500-1428432523_thumb.j


  11. I also use the Roland style blades in my cutters and for just regular Oracle 651 vinyl, I use the cheap US Cutter blades offered on the site and they last a while.  When cutting reflective or glitter shirt vinyl, I use the Green Star 60 degree.  They come in with a Green Star sticker on one side of the package and a Clean Cut sticker on the back. Basically, a re-packaged Clean Cut blade but they last much longer than the cheaper blade when cutting heavier material.