haumana

Might be a good idea to export your most important files into some kind of generic vector file, so it can used in another program in a bind.

'Aloha e Denis - Thanks for checking out the forum. I encourage you to register as a regular user, doesn't cost anything, but it will allow your posts to go up immediately instead of it being in queue, waiting for one of the moderators to approve it.

If doing a perforated cut, wouldn't that require a carrier sheet, just to make sure that a) there's a good surface under the blade to make the cut, instead of the forgiveness an trough would allow, and b) so that the material will no accidentally snag on blade from 'popping' up from being cut? Sorry, I don't do perforated cuts, so I'm just trying to get a better grasp of this.

why aren't you using the blade holder to be situated over the cutting strip?

I encourage you to register for this forum. It's free, and your posts will go up righ away. I broke the birds out to separate files, and zipped them up. What kind of software are you using for design or cutting? hummingbirds.zip

Nice! Thank you for posting your 'work around,' no doubt your answer will help someone in the future.

Power supply or main board. Was there a recent power outage?

Any one have recommendations on where to get aluminum sign blanks, preferably white? I'm specifically looking for 18" x 12" x 0.032. 0.040 if 0.032 isn't available. I only have one supplies shop locally, and they are super pricey, so I'm lookin to just pick-up blanks, and keep them in stock myself. Thanks in advance!

I will look into that. Thanks for the suggestion.

If I can get it to me under $12 per piece, that would be something I'd consider. Right now, I'm considering trying to order 50ish pieces, then will probably need to have it freight forwarded it to me.

This was the closest I could find.

Welcome back!

Welcome to the forum. Thank you for signing up. Glad you were able to figure out an aswer on your own. Thank you for posting your solution, as I'm sure it will help future users. If I may ask - what software, and platform (Win or Mac) you're using?

Welcome to the forum. I encourage you to register as a user, then your post(s) will not need to wait for a moderator to clear it. I think I understand what you're trying to do. What you need to do is to color the different layers by different colors, then just cut by color. If I didn't interpret your concern correctly, then I ask that you post a picture or two of what's happening, so that other forum members can try to assist you.

Thank you for registering. Have you tried to select any of the MH cutters on the list and sent a test job to the cutter? There are many cutters out there that can run utilizing a different cutter designated in the settings.

DLB2 - Cutters will only cut vector lines, so if your circle, arrows and text are not vector, you cutter will not do a thing. I'd also encourage you to register with the forum, so that you're posts will go up immediately and not be in queue waiting for a moderator to approve it.

Did you computer do a Windows update?

what version of Windows are you running? make sure that the ComPort that Windows assigned to your cutter, matches the connection in the software. Each time you unplug/re-plug the USB, it's possible that Windows will assign it a different number. If you're running Windows 10 or Windows 11, then each update that Microsoft pushes runs the chance of knocking the cutter settings askew. for the most part, the majority of the regular volunteer forum members do take the time to read the original post in its entirety.

If you are cutting through the vinyl and backing, then you are cutting into the cutting strip. The cut will literally be razor thin, but that's all it needs to start causing cutting problems. If you cutting strip has any slices through it, you should consider replacing it. A razor thin slice is all any of my machines needs to start giving me trouble.

check the cutting strip. it doesn't take very many slices into it for it affect the quality of the cut. check the blade holder and blade holder carriage. I experienced low pressure due to a hairline crack in blade holder attached to the carriage. check the blade holder, that when you manually apply force to check the proper depth, you're actually getting a cut.

If we cannot seem to help you here, another place to try is the Sure Cuts a Lot Facebook page. Hopefully someone there might be able to assist you. There are only a handful of users here that run their cutters with a Mac, and the ones that I know who do, all have Graphtec machines and use their software. If you come across the fix, would you mind coming back and updating us?

it looks like the .031 might be attributed to line thickness. The two pics of the turkey have different line weights.

Thank you for your follow-up update. Glad that things are getting situated for you. As far as you question towards bottom goes - I have a CE6000, and use two clip arms. I'd prefer to use a pinch roller, but my machine only came with two, so I resorted to getting the arms. Not endorsing anyone in particular, but you get can get them slightly cheaper on Etsy here, with free shipping. I do not recall where I got mine from, but I did use a bit of alien tape at the back of the "box" of the arm pieces, so that they stayed on, as a few times they popped off while in use. Different (3D) printer person may use different filament with different flex properties, so just know that your's may fit perfectly, while mine is very, very close, but required some super strength double stick tape If you think that suporrts on the front of the cutter, to help the cutting mat to stay flat, would also be beneficial there are sellers on eBay and Etsy that sell those too. If you have, or know of someone who has a 3d printer, then I can post the .stl file for those and you (or someone else) can print them up for you. Keep us posted.

You need to get into Device Manager on your computer and see what com port was assigned to the cutter. SBE will only run using com ports 1 - 4. Anything higher than that is out of SBE's range. If that's the case, then you need to reassign that com port to a different (lower) number.

Hmm ... All of my blade holders are made of aluminum, so I guess I'm just used to it. The servo should be okay with it, provided that a) the blade tip is in tact, and its not dragging with a broken blade, and/or b) the blade holder is free of debris to free spin properly. When my vinyl cut doesn't look to be spot on, I will take out the blade holder and inspect the blade itself, and well as clean out the holder. You can try the blade holder with a Clean Cut Blade, which often times do not require as much force to cut, which should cause less drag on the servos.