LPWash

My original cord/hookup is coming loose at the base of my us cutter sc. Looking for a link to a good 9 pin to usb cord. I ordered one already and it wound up being the wrong one. Any help or link to the right one would be awesome. I need at least a 6 foot cord.

bottom one looks blasted.

You can only do two items at once when doing front minus back or back minus front. You need to group/merge the red layer as one and then your gray top layer as one. Your Letter O's were the issue. So as it sits right now, you have red as one item, your gray as another layer, then the two inner parts of your letter O's made it four pieces. Once your group each color separately, then I like to hold down left click, drag the mouse around your work then object/back minus front (or front minus back), whichever gives you that effect.

Step 1. Purchase a tape measure. Step 2. Read tape measure.

oh you mean the kernels, not yet popped popcorn?

why the popcorn?

I like the logo also. Nicely done.

Download the font. Extract them into your computer fonts (start, control panel, fonts). Open SCAL. Click on the text box (not the one at the top, but the one where you can choose different ones for your project) Then hit the reload fonts. It's the 3/4 looking circle.

White, yellow, red, blue will get you started. Most of my cuts aren't any wider then 12" so keep that in mind when ordering your easy weed roll width. The girlfriend purchased a 15'' Gecko press. It's a less expensive one but works flawlessly.

I think the reason it doesn't look quite as appealing on your first post is it's not enough letters for the amount of space that you tried to span. I have scal 4 pro and it's much better now to work with the new text features.

I'd love that top file as an svg just to see if my cutter can cut that detail. That's extreme. Nicely done.

I'd use 631 as it's used for wall surfaces. Then I'd be very careful removing it with a heat gun keeping it moving non stop so you don't damage the floor finish. I wouldn't worry so much as the slipping part as it's probably going to be done on the middle of the court and not much action happens there. I'd be more worried about the finish coming up during the removal of the vinyl, especially if it's an old floor/finish.

I remember reading that. Was it used to put vinyl on concaved wine glasses (prep for sandblasting) to help keep the vinyl from wrinkling?

Now I don't know, because I don't yet own a laser, but I was told I would be disappointed how a laser doesn't show as well as sandlbast does. But it has to be nice not to weed any vinyl and place on a turntable and laser away. Not sure how the handle would come into effect using a turntable and laser.

If your shirts are cracking after two washes, they are not being cured properly.

Maybe they heard their was a write in.

I'm using SCAL Pro. The image looks fine with a dark image on a light shirt. But I want to use a white image on dark shirts. How can I take this same image and make it work in SCAL ? Any ideas?

Thank you so much. The part that got me was I wasn't making my outline quite big enough and all it was doing was giving me what appeared to be two cut lines. I just made the outline bigger which made it more prominent. Thank you. That was really messing with me.

Ah, but grasshopper, you must pay crose attention to the quesion. He say he have budgret of a thousand dorras.

I've never used reflective htv. But I do know reflective outdoor vinyl is a bear to work with and needs a lot more pressure to cut.

http://www.uscutter.com/USCutter-SC-Series-Vinyl-Cutter I have the 50" us cutter sc and love it. $550

Don't you mean just your .15 cents ? lol

Make sure you reset your machine between cuts. Always preview before making cuts to show how it will cut. Is your machine grounded? Does this happen on larger / longer cuts and not on smaller jobs? The size of the file or static electricity could be an issue.

Anybody that works with SCAL software, his videos are direct and to the point. Best ones I've found.