Leaderboard


Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation since 01/29/2024 in Posts

  1. 2 points
    I can't help with setting up the new cutter but I would suggest you get in the habit of saving/exporting your designs as EPS or SVG files. That way in the future if you ever do have to switch to a different program you will be able to easily load old designs. Also, don't let the number of old designs you have scare you from switching software. How often to you actually load an old design and cut it? If like most people, not often. And when you do need an old design, just load it, save it off as an EPS and you're done. No need to convert them all, just convert them as you need them.
  2. 2 points
    The function of the spring and the adjustment of depth have nothing to do with each other. Set the blade depth per Mz Skeeters instructions. Then if you're still having issues look at things on the cutter, bad cutting strip, non smooth movements of the cutter head, correctly functional solenoid. With the blade set correctly it is impossible to cut too deep.
  3. 2 points
    True that. I've spent countless efforts making "incompatible" software work with different computers. It's like they're trying to test my ability to circumvent the way they want their program to install and run. Challenge accepted!! Clearly there are times when I simply have too much time on my hands
  4. 2 points
    I think you're missing what slice was trying to say. It's not that other programs can't use a Siser cutter, it's just that the only software FC supports is the Leonardo Studio. Here's another example. MicroSoft will say that MS Office is only compatible with with Windows 10 and newer. However there are plenty of people out there that have gotten MS Office to run on older versions of Windows, and even various versions of Linux. There are almost always other ways to run things, just the vendor doesn't want you to use them and doesn't directly support them.
  5. 2 points
    If you can find out who the original manufacturer is for that machine, then you're 85% there. Then you'd be able to test out VM using the correct 'driver.' In the meantime, if you're designing in AI, but needing your format to be in .png, then just export your design from AI to a .png format. CorelDraw, Inkscape, and Affinity Designer also have the ability to do that as well. I rarely design in whatever proprietary software is provided to me, but I have a few machines that I need to use to send the job properly to it.
  6. 1 point
    If you are able to, download Inkscape (inkscape.org), and you can use that program to vectorize some of your artwork. It's an open source (freeware) program, and has a very good vectorizing engine.
  7. 1 point
    hi, thank you very much, the reason i compose in cap's is because of poor eye sight (sorry)
  8. 1 point
    Google translation: "Good afternoon, I bought the vinyl cmaster v5 software and I cannot activate it as I do, please, it is urgent that I need to use it." You should contact the software company directly. We cannot assist with software activation issues. (Debe comunicarse directamente con la empresa de software. No podemos ayudar con problemas de activación de software.)
  9. 1 point
    Please, please, please do no write in all caps. I also bought my first cutter from eBay, it was new, direct from US Cutter. You did not specify whether your cutter was new or used, but based on your response, I'm going to hazard a guess that it was used. You might want to check with the seller to see if they still have that information. If they do not, then your "free" option is to use SignBlazer. Slice & Dice was kind enough to provide the link for you. Again, pause your antivirus software to install SignBlazer.
  10. 1 point
    Cutters need to be sold with design/cut/connectivity software. Please contact your eBay seller and inquire about that. You can use 'RedSail' driver with free SignBlazer.
  11. 1 point
    Your welcome. You can only use Com# 1-4 .nothing higher. You can assign it a different com port number by going into properties and changing the com port number. Your driver does not look like it installed, You have a warning beside it. The triangle.
  12. 1 point
    If you have a business operation that depends on a specific functionality of Leonardo DesignStudio, and that functionality is $8 monthly, how is it possible for your business operations to be unable to afford that $100 annually? Tim Horton's coffee every day costs more than that. USCUTTER is not FutureCorp. It's up to FutureCorporation's executives to decide on how to configure/program their software, based on a variety of market factors. Again, the reply you got was that FutureCorporation is not providing you with a Siser driver, and if you are curious as to why that is the case (collusion/deal with USC/technical difficulty?) then ask them directly, and see how they answer. We cannot speak for anyone.
  13. 1 point
    Quick update, I got in device manager and just started clicking on stuff, reboot computer and it appears to be working Thank you so much
  14. 1 point
    At least you think of things to draw. I fully admit to being a total left-brainer, next to no creativity, but I can execute the crap out of anything, or MacGyver when necessary, but fresh ideas is not something in my daily vocabulary.
  15. 1 point
    A buddy just told me about a relatively new app from Adobe, Adobe Fresco. It's a free vector drawing app that is suppose to work really well with tablets and styluses. A guy he follows uses the app and a screen protector call Paperlike that makes drawing on the tablet feel a lot more like drawing on paper. This guy is really pleased with it and his only real complaint is it dulls the colors a bit. Anyway, I have not used this app but we get people in here every now and then asking about using tablets and drawing pens. This might be one worth looking at if that is what you're after.
  16. 1 point
    Hi again Jill, thanks for checking back with that reply from FC support. I think you misunderstood the answer that FurtureCorp. gave you. What they seem to be saying is that the Siser cutter is not featured within their regular VinylMaster program(s) and is "proprietary" for the LDS software to pair with it. In other words, they don't have a Siser machine driver built into any of their Vinyl-Master branded products, and only the Leonardo Studio can provide that. That being said, you have found a work-around program with ECS, which fortunately has a driver for your unit. (FutureCorp. was telling you that THEIR apps aren't compatible, but as you've discovered, there is some other developer which placed the Siser cutters into EasyCut's program coding.) Just out of curiosity, what attracted you to the SISER unit? Was there some feature or configuration you liked, versus a regular USCUTTER Chinese knock-off of Roland-type cutters? (SC2, or LP3, Prism-Cut or Titan models?)
  17. 1 point
    Heard back from FutureCorp. According to them, Siser cutters are only supported by Leonardo Design Studio. Well, they are wrong as I am now using it with Easy Cut Studio. Jill
  18. 1 point
    OK, Jill, let us know what you discover. It's not going to address any widespread user problem here, but still, it's always nice to see things resolved.
  19. 1 point
    Jill, be aware that FutureCorp. offers several different versions of their software. They have one version for machines like Vevor, they call it SignMaster. Then, there's the USCUTTER software, which is sold and distributed by USCUTTER to handle the machines provided by USC. And also, a 'retail' configuration, that is available directly from FutureCorp. --- have you talked to FutureCorp? They are the only ones who can respond to your queries about this.
  20. 1 point
    You might want to design outside of the proprietary software (i.e. Illustrator, CorelDraw, Inkscape, Designer, etc.), and just import the graphics into the cutting software. Is VM able to export to a compatible format for the Romeo?
  21. 1 point
    Just a guess, but your drawing probably is a stroke and not a line and your cutter is cutting both lines that make up the stroke.
  22. 1 point
    post your file in .svg format and maybe someone can take a look at it.
  23. 1 point
    . Has this cutter ever cut correctly? Is it new or used? Your cutter is a value cutter with a cheap Chinese chipset on it,, will take a bit of fine tuning to cut correctly. Best to use with a Tripplite Keyspan Adapter and your null modem cable. Setting your blade depth correctly is the first thing you have to get correct, You do not use the depth of a credit card or post it notes. That is way too much blade exposed out of the blade holder. You set the blade depth to the vinyl you will be cutting.( Instructions below). For blade offset, start at 0.25mm and adjust at 0.05 to be correct. Show your test cuts from the TEST cut feature on the machine. That has to be correct first, before you cut anything. Square should be square. You could also ad a little overcut in your cutting software, but that is not going to fix what you have going on. You have to start with the correct blade depth first. this info has been posted on here hundreds and hundreds of times, it applies to any brand of vinyl cutter, except a Graphtec has a ZERO blade offset. Something that you will have to do if you haven't, if that cutter is on a stand, it needs grounded to the stand, or static from the vinyl, will stop the cutter. The tracking is not good on those cutters for larger designs. The memory is also not good for larger designs. To start with, you should set your blade depth correctly, by taking the blade holder out of the machine, and firmly cut across a piece of scrap vinyl, you will be cutting. You should only be cutting the vinyl and barely a mark on wax paper backing, Adjust blade to get there, Then put the blade holder back in machine, and use the force of the machine to get there, same results, only cutting the vinyl and barely a mark in wax paper backing. You should barely see and feel the blade tip out of the blade holder. Regular sign vinyl is only 2-3 mil thick. You only cut with the very tip of the blade. When you think the blade is so far in the blade holder, that you think it would not even cut, that is probably correct.
  24. 1 point
    blade depth first, because you're getting scratches on the vinyl where there shouldn't be any. if you have dialed in the right blade depth, then make sure you vinyl isn't tenting, or if you have a 3rd pinch roller, use it. off set, to try and tighten up the corners.
  25. 1 point
    Biggest problems Newbies encounter is setting the blade depth correctly. Too many wrong instructions out there. Don't use instructions that have to do with a credit card thickness or post it notes. They are wrong. Vinyl is only 2-3 mil thick, so you only cut with the very tip of the blade. Blade depth has to be set correctly before any other settings. To start with, you should set your blade depth correctly, by taking the blade holder out of the machine, and firmly cut across a piece of scrap vinyl, you will be cutting. You should only be cutting the vinyl and barely a mark on wax paper backing, Adjust blade to get there, Then put the blade holder back in machine, and use the force of the machine to get there, same results, only cutting the vinyl and barely a mark in wax paper backing. You should barely see and feel the blade out of the blade holder Make sure the carriage head wheels are firmly in the track. Never be pulling vinyl from the roll, always enough slack to do the order. Make sure blade holder is firmly down in the carriage arm. If you had the blade too far out, make sure you haven't broken the tip off.