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  1. Today
  2. Thanks Wildgoose, I'm finding out alot real fast I thought it would Be like plug and play push the button and a decal is cut out it's not that easy sometimes. Thanks Jeff
  3. Thank you slice&dice, Wildgoose, shaneGreen, I will try that wildgoose shanegreen I'm missing it on the reflective tape about How to remove it I do have some of it and it's expensive would not want to mess alot if that up. Thanks for all the help everyone. Jeff
  4. cardudenc

    VM cut error shut down pop up

    im not much of a designer or comp guy, so when VM cut came with my cutter. that's what I used to do it all from. then as far as saving , I always just clicked save n VM and typed a name for each project. now using a different program because of this constant error issue . I mainly only open the program to get to designs I made in it early on, or look up a font from an old design. I will have to check what type file all this older stuff is saved n looks like here C:\Users\Public\Documents\VinylMaster_USC Files\Samples
  5. Dakotagrafx

    Heat foam for hat press

    I defer all hat questions to goose or those that do lots more than I ever did - I sold my hat press years ago. Juice wasn't worth the squeezing in my area
  6. Dakotagrafx

    Quick Question

    on the dog pictures do you have permission from HAMMER & STAIN ROCKVILLE to reproduce their work?
  7. Dakotagrafx

    Quick Question

    most design software has tracing functions and uscutter sells a program called graphics tracer - but with all of those there will be clean up and node editing needed to make them really good - working with vector graphics is a skill - some of our members have been known to do a clean trace manually for a price
  8. Makers720

    Quick Question

    Hello, all! New to the forum and new to vinyl cutting. I am looking for a program that will convert a picture to an outline like the ones below. I have Cuts A Lot Pro 4, but still playing with it. Is it able to do this or is it a different software? Thanks!
  9. TrackHawk707

    Heat foam for hat press

    Lmao yes the mirroring method! I done it so many times in the past that I think I finally got it down now. Appreciate the help I’m going to try tomorrow. The hotronix is coated from what my directions / info says so that’s good to know. Do you guys know of any firmer pillows or foam or do you guys just not use them at all? The pillows are better then nothing but still gets under my skin I can’t get these hats super smooth for a nice perfect press even after pre press and pulling it more.
  10. Yesterday
  11. On a designers note most of us experienced builders just don't trace out text unless we have exhausted every other possibility. It's faster to at least find a similar font and make modifications on that one than to trace things out. If it's one to 4 or 5 letters then I might just to get done and move on but those font designers spend a LOT of time perfecting all the little radius and corner angles and it's a lot of work to get it to look good. Like mfatty500 said every vector program on the planet that I am aware of either operates with the text already converted to outlines or has the needed feature to convert the font to a vector outline built in. SOME fonts look good when small but are actually not so awesome when you get up close and personal. The messier fonts will cause some issues when you get into doing path offsets, outlines or shadows or whatever your program calls them. You will know it when you see a really strange outline and most of the time it's a bad spot on the base font design. I really enjoy the design side of the business. Some struggle but practice makes perfect and it's a handy skill to have and a necessary one in the cutting world.
  12. Wildgoose

    Stahls Cap Press

    I could see that happening yep. For other work like plastisol transfers and HTV the auto open is awesome on the hat press. Dye-Sub you may have to be ready to catch the handle so it doesn't jump too fast.
  13. Keep in mind that the transfer tape should NOT "lift the vinyl." The backing paper should be peeled away from the vinyl. And be sure that you're pulling at a much larger than 90 degree angle...the backing paper that has released should almost be touching the backing paper that still needs to come off. It makes a huge difference on some vinyls and colors. I've got some Oracal 5600 white reflective laying here and reflective is sort of two-ply. The backing paper and adhesive are stuck to the bottom reflective layer and then the top layer is a semi-transparent colored vinyl. If you try to "lift the vinyl" with the transfer tape you'll end up with spots where the reflective layer stays stuck to the backing paper. At the price of reflective you'll learn that lesson real quick.
  14. BillBig

    Need Help to find correct Font on this Boat

    You guys are great, thank you. I am sorry the picture is so bad.
  15. mfatty500

    Stahls Cap Press

    I don't like the auto open on my Stahls 16x20, when it pops up that's were you get the ghosting from, IMO, so I took it off.
  16. ShaneGreen

    VM cut error shut down pop up

    I started doing my design work in Inkscape, but when I updated to VM Pro I don't seem to have a reason to open Inkscape much any more. It should be noted that I'm not a very good designer and have the artistic skills of an arthritic orangutan. Someone who can actually draw might not find VM to have enough options. Once I get in image the way I like it I usually save an extra copy as an SVG just as a backup. I'm always leery of any proprietary format. I ended up with 10 years of cad drawings that couldn't be opened after a computer crash left me without CadKey97 and noting on the market that supported it anymore. So there's my paranoia, that, and the native vdoc aren't viewable as thumbnails in other programs. If you save your designs to another directory besides the location of the actual program files it shouldn't be a problem to uninstall. When you install it probably went to a directory like.... c://Program Files (x86) / FutureCorp / Vinylmaster / But when I save an image I use one of the "This PC" folders, like Documents/VinylCutter/ArtWork Just be sure to do an actual "uninstall" and don't delete it.
  17. Dakotagrafx

    Heat foam for hat press

    I am not sure what takes the sublimation ink off a platen - you can try the easy off or even some rubbing alcohol first - if hotronix the platen is probably covered in a coating anyways but this is how we learn, there has to be a couple of missteps in the process. we all do it and continue to make mistakes even years later. forgetting to mirror htv will be the one that returns for years
  18. TrackHawk707

    Heat foam for hat press

    funny you say that goose. I legit cut it to size so that it was easier to line up perfectly. lol welp your idea is a home run much rather do that then have markings. even if it takes a little longer to center. thank you on the compliments the foam hats are super comfortable and the prints are nice and bright! the pre-press your talking about I do but I never thought to try and move it and confine it after the small press. I feel like i need to get more platens this one leaves a big gap in the center so unfortunately i don't think it will work but I'm def going to try. & Dakota yes I think I saw something on paper but figured if teflon was no good to use don't cover it but now I'm little mad at myself for getting this on my platen. I have some ez off think it could work? I never had to use it before so not really sure how to tackle that.
  19. Dakotagrafx

    Heat foam for hat press

    always, always use butcher paper or similar protective paper over the project. You are correct that the ink in gas form attached to your platen and causing that red ghosting. cheap roll of butcher paper (uncoated) from sams, costco etc last a LONG time and saves your press
  20. Wildgoose

    Heat foam for hat press

    For the sublimation work I would make the print so that there was enough open area on each side and probably above the crown that the edges of the paper won't create a crease and the tape can be applied so it isn't even under the heat. Just a longer strip if that makes sense. It will waste a little sublimation paper but in that scenario that is what I would do. I never tried to sublimate a hat but other than the problem you are finding the sub job looks awesome. One thing I do on most of my hats is as soon as I put a pre-press to it for a few seconds I then lift the heat and work the hat to stretch it a little and make it conform to the platen a little better so it doesn't get the creases. I have never pressed on a foamy so they may not conform but most regular structured hats will.
  21. TrackHawk707

    Heat foam for hat press

    Hey guys so my hotronix hat press came in and I was extremely happy up until I pressed my first hat. It was a foam hat and I did exactly what I was reading. (This was for sublimation) I placed my print lined it up and threw heat tape on it with no Teflon (which another bad idea) I don’t know why they tell you not to use it but some ink got on my heat platen and you’ll see it on my white hat below. Craft paper should probably have been used. but anyway so now the press completes and it has markings from the heat tape and a box around the print from the paper. I figured I needed more of a firm base so I didn’t get bent out of shape I ordered Teflon pillows and still getting creases in the hats I tried different pressures but did stay around the area pressure you should be at when applying subs and or vinyl. If anyone has any feedback I’d appreciate the help. I will attach some photos and maybe just let me know what you think. The red hat creased in the middle and the gray and white foam hats I’m sure you’ll see the marks. (Gray hat done with no pillow) everything else had the pillow. I looked for a firm heat safe foam but can’t seem to find anything safe for heat up to 400 degrees. One hat came out perfect and I think cause it’s a different style hat.
  22. Oracal 651 is known to be a little problematic from time to time in this one regard. It seems to have a good hold on the carrier. The upside is that that hold is also what helps it weed good for a calendared vinyl. The best cure I have found is just before install run it over a sharp edged table app tape side down so that the sharp angle on the table or bench will help break the vinyl loose from the carrier. Then lay the vinyl face down on the app tape side and peel the backing up and away from the vinyl. I have best luck if I can get a slight roll action going on the carrier sheet and it will sort of snap or pop up off the vinyl. Not all rolls of 651 fight as bad as some others. 751 and 951 do not have this issue. I also like to use R-Tape 4076RLA. It is slightly higher tack than 4075.
  23. In my experience, if the cuts are too deep into the backing paper, the vinyl decals get 'stuck' (sorta fused onto the backing layer). However, you say this is not happening, so there's something else going on here.
  24. haumana, New cutting teflon strip new clean cut 60 deg. Blade with no cut marks on my vinyl backing. I can't say how old my vinyl is I just bought it and the transfer paper matter fact I now have tried 2 different kinds of transfer paper and they both dont pull up the vinyl. I have been squeegeeing the hell out of it with only some of it coming up. Any tips tricks would be greatly appreciated I'm at a lose on this and can't do anything with my vinyl. Thanks Jeff
  25. Thanks for the input. I looked in my manual, but admit that I need to read through it more. Mine did arrive with the rollers up, but I didn't know if that was more of a shipping thing.
  26. shancha

    Drawing Pad-pen

    Follow your style. If your art would be more efficiently built as vectors, you must use Illustrator. If it's better executed as pixels, you must use Photoshop. Use Photoshop for pixel manipulation, photo retouching, and digital painting. Imagine it as a canvas. You can draw and make all kinds of great images with it, including cartoons. You have a stylus and a drawing pad like XP-Pen Deco 02 Graphic Drawing Tablet , and you're all set. And there is a wide swath of art that works best if you use BOTH Photoshop and Illustrator, making components in one program and mixing them into the other. For example, it might turn out that your comic art is best started in Illustrator for the ease of shape and pen stroke manipulation when laying down the basic drawing, but finished in Photoshop for best control over shading, painting, effects, and other finishing.
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