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I just got my SC2 last night, watched a few videos, thought I had everthing set up correctly, but now I'm not sure, so here come the questions...
I decided to use the pen tool and I had heard that on blades, they just need to barely stick out so I adjusted the pen to stick out just a little too.  
1. For the pen tool, is this too much or too little sticking out?

32899223_10215606437489268_1103922310080888832_n.thumb.jpg.1d567a00b8badb7648618c572ed39365.jpg
 

 

The back end of the pen hits the little ridge by the control panel when it passes by it.  
2. Is the pen too high here?
32835017_10215606437449267_6183377138020777984_n.jpg.3889d98e0df67961ea3fb8eea895b412.jpg

 

I did a test cut and I'm getting these little "lead ins" which I would understand why I'm getting them if I was using a blade and not a pen.  It's possible I had this set to "blade" not "pen tool" by mistake though.
3. So did I have a setting wrong here or is this normal?
You can see the little start marks on the "C" and the "t" here:Inked32857616_10215606462289888_5142417137238802432_n_LI.jpg.6f15d9e99d495252f97021568c53e894.jpg

 

Then I decided to try importing from Corel. 
4. Are these settings good:
32965898_10215606427129009_8568453270119383040_n.jpg.3a590923b038ca21058b7c89359d1de1.jpg

 

 

Importing from Corel was easy and the design cut, but there were some gaps between the start and end, and also some of the letters weren't drawn correctly. You can see the difference between the "w" on these two pics, and you can see the gaps in here as well:
32767701_10215606422048882_1733763849401663488_n.jpg.f8e875447eeada30ebdce5fa959274e3.jpg

5afee8a3007f5_Screenshot(7).thumb.png.20a55c77ceea012cb7bc8b1801d48ab2.png
5. What settings do I have wrong here?

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Offset for a pen is 0 Zero.  So which cutting software are you using?  Corel is not cutting software.it is design software.   You got either  Sure Cuts A Lot or Vinyl Master as cutting software..Import your design into one of those cutting softwares  or design something in the cutting software, then send to cut. After you set up your vinyl cutter in the cutting software.  .     Lower the pen so that it doesn't hit.  It's not going to dig thru the paper. Back the force off.  

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I used Corel to design that "Edge Metalworks" logo, then imported it into Vinyl Master.  The "CUT"  image from the 3rd pic was cut from the TEST function in Vinyl Master though.

When you say "lower the pen" do you do that in software somehow, or do you mean physically push it down with your finger?

 

Also, I can't find where to adjust the force in Vinyl Master...?

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No I mean lower the pen in the blade holder...Will it not go any lower?  No one has ever said the pen hit the vinyl cutter while working.   Your force is on your vinyl cutter.  Read your user manual, on what the features do on the control panel. of your vinyl cutter.   Add some overcut in Vinyl Master for those gaps.   Make sure offset is 0 in Vinyl Master for the pen. 

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6 hours ago, signyouup said:

Cut a little off the pen.

That's what I wanted to do, but thought that maybe I shouldn't need to and I just had it installed incorrectly though.  I did it and it's fine now.

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On 5/18/2018 at 8:59 AM, Scratchthejeepguy said:

I just got my SC2 last night, watched a few videos, thought I had everthing set up correctly, but now I'm not sure, so here come the questions...
I decided to use the pen tool and I had heard that on blades, they just need to barely stick out so I adjusted the pen to stick out just a little too.  
1. For the pen tool, is this too much or too little sticking out?


 

 

The back end of the pen hits the little ridge by the control panel when it passes by it.  
2. Is the pen too high here?
 

 

I did a test cut and I'm getting these little "lead ins" which I would understand why I'm getting them if I was using a blade and not a pen.  It's possible I had this set to "blade" not "pen tool" by mistake though.
3. So did I have a setting wrong here or is this normal?
You can see the little start marks on the "C" and the "t" here:

 

Then I decided to try importing from Corel. 
4. Are these settings good:
32965898_10215606427129009_8568453270119383040_n.jpg.3a590923b038ca21058b7c89359d1de1.jpg

 

 

Importing from Corel was easy and the design cut, but there were some gaps between the start and end, and also some of the letters weren't drawn correctly. You can see the difference between the "w" on these two pics, and you can see the gaps in here as well:
 


5. What settings do I have wrong here?

I am not a Corel user but looking at your SVG export settings I see one that I would change. You should export all text as curves. I would actually recommend converting any text to curves during the design process before ever getting to the export and maybe you are already doing that. Some of those other bitmap setting are probably for thumbnail viewing the SVG or something because the SVG will not be a bitmap itself. Not familiar with the nitty gritty of Corel. 

I AM a Jeep fan though.:P

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4 hours ago, Wildgoose said:

I am not a Corel user but looking at your SVG export settings I see one that I would change. You should export all text as curves. I would actually recommend converting any text to curves during the design process before ever getting to the export and maybe you are already doing that. Some of those other bitmap setting are probably for thumbnail viewing the SVG or something because the SVG will not be a bitmap itself. Not familiar with the nitty gritty of Corel. 

I AM a Jeep fan though.:P

Thanks for the tip fellow Jeep fan... I use Corel for my CNC plasma cutting and always convert the text to curves right after I type out and decide on a font.  It makes it easier to size and edit as I'm sure you know.  I've never seen this exact screen though as for my plasma cutting, I always convert to DXF.  I'm assuming that by me doing it right away it's the same as checking the box correct...?

 

EDIT:  I just tried to export a DXF file like I do for plasma and a similar screen shows up.  It also has the "convert text to curves" box checked.  I'll just check it now in case I ever forget. Thanks again!

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1 minute ago, MZ SKEETER said:

why export DXF?   .eps is the most widely used format. and will work in most any cutting software. 

Sorry... I meant I just tried exporting a file as a DXF like I do when I plasma cut (my plasma cutting table uses DXF's not EPS)

I just wanted to see if I had the "convert text to curves" box checked when I draw something up for plasma cutting, which I do.

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well Hate to side track the thread, but since I have nothing to add. what kind of jeeps we talkn about here????

 I'm wanting to eventually add a plasma table to the shop, right now I just use my hand held for the work I do n my jeep shop

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22 minutes ago, Scratchthejeepguy said:

Sorry... I meant I just tried exporting a file as a DXF like I do when I plasma cut (my plasma cutting table uses DXF's not EPS)

I just wanted to see if I had the "convert text to curves" box checked when I draw something up for plasma cutting, which I do.

ok.  :D

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12 hours ago, cardudenc said:

well Hate to side track the thread, but since I have nothing to add. what kind of jeeps we talkn about here????

 I'm wanting to eventually add a plasma table to the shop, right now I just use my hand held for the work I do n my jeep shop

Plasma tables are fun.  A LOT more messy than a vinyl cutter, that's for sure! The reason I got the vinyl cutter was because I had customers want me to do very fine lettering or details on metal signs that the plasma cutter just couldn't do.  I'm excited to make some cool stuff with it!

As far as Jeeps... I've had over 30 open top Jeeps in my life, currently have 9.  Mostly Willys. 

1 MB

3 CJ2A

2 CJ3A

1 CJ5

1 CJ7

1TJ

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yep, vinyl a lot cleaner and lighter. lol. building the jeeps has ended up with me having 3 hernia surgeries and a back surgery scheduled for july.

awesome collection. I wanting to build a crawler with either a yj or tube chassis and a willys tub. guess I could post up mine but its prob a 50/50 split of personal and business in that collection. lol. vinyl is prob close to the jeep addiction, and easier to work with

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10 hours ago, Scratchthejeepguy said:

Plasma tables are fun.  A LOT more messy than a vinyl cutter, that's for sure! The reason I got the vinyl cutter was because I had customers want me to do very fine lettering or details on metal signs that the plasma cutter just couldn't do.  I'm excited to make some cool stuff with it!

As far as Jeeps... I've had over 30 open top Jeeps in my life, currently have 9.  Mostly Willys. 

1 MB

3 CJ2A

2 CJ3A

1 CJ5

1 CJ7

1TJ

Nice! I have had several over the years but nothing like your lineup. 3 CJ5's of various vintage a CJ3A that had a cracked block and finally a 97 Wrangler that ended up running 40's on one tons.  I sold the Wrangler a few years back (and yes I regret it) and have been trying out a 96' FzJ80. It's pretty nice and comfy but way too heavy. I enjoy the AC and creature comforts but I think I'll build another crawler or purpose built trail rig in a few years when I get another kid out of the house. The cruiser is now a high school vehicle for one of my girls. They like it cause all the guys are jealous. It's got a 4" lift and 315 tires with some custom trail protection around the edges. 

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hmmm??  @Wildgoose not sure I knew u was a crawler. 40s and tons.... now we talkn.  jeep motor or v8 swap? I build them from mild to wild. my new crawler is sitting in pieces at my barn. linked yj frame, don't rem if its a cj or yj tub, but a cj hood and grille. a set of cucv tons and an old school 4 bolt main sbc hoping it cranks out over 450hp, may end up with an ls 6.0 by the time it gets built. prob run a set of 42-43 stickies. whats funny is the rig ive been wheeling until I moved south and these health issues started kicking my azz is a 94-95 yj hp 44, 9" rear chromos and locked, sitting on 37s pushed by the mighty 4 banger. should c some of the big boys faces when I raise the hood after wheeling with them all day. lol

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oops, guess I could've pitched my dd. its an 04 tj, 4.0 auto. with an atlas. with 38s dangling on a d30 ft with chromos and an arb/ d35 with the super 35 kit. have another set of hp 44, & 9" 5.13s,  locked and chromos. waiting for the $ for coilovers and will b putting them n and prob a set of 40s

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My 97 was stock motor and stock 5spd stock transfer case even which really surprised all my trail buddies. I ran a Ford D60 up front long side chopped to move the pumpkin over. 5:38 grs and ARB. Rear was a full width 14bolt with a detroit no-spin. 39.5 Irocs on full Hummer 1 rims with the runflats. I had to space the front back out to get back to full width and wished I would have ran some rebar or something around the H1 rims because they were pretty soft and had to pound the edge now and then if I got in a pinch. Enjoyed the full bead-locks a lot. I tried out the cadillac calipers on the back when I converted to disc brakes. Not a fan, I should have just went for some front chevy calipers and figured out a line lock or driveline brake for parking. I got them to work but they were problematic to get set up right and not have them leaking. It needed a deep reduction t-case but I was able to follow along everywhere the rest of the guys went and it made me a better driver. I even beat out a buggy at a local crawl competition in town. Deadenbear knuckles after the hydro-assit ram pushed the top off the stock Ford knuckle. I hear the Fords are weaker that way. deadenbear drills a chevy based design for the ford bolt pattern so it was an easy swap if not for being 15 miles up a nasty trail. 

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@cardudenc Your daily driver is on 38's!  You're more of a man than me!  Sounds like you and @Wildgoose both have some nice rigs!  My main trailrider is an 03 Rubicon on 36" TSL/SX's with beadlocks, a 5.5" RE Long arm lift, 8274 winch and stock engine.  Pretty basic, but it works for me.

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