MZ SKEETER

No, I have never had a problem, but what happens when everything is already plugged in, when you turn your computer on? Is everything working then? Sometimes when a computer is on and you plug your vinyl cutter in, it will cause the computer to assign a different com port number than what it already had. Always best to have a dedicated computer and don't unplug it. My computer is never unplugged from the vinyl cutter.

Design in Flexi, export as .eps, save file, import and cut with Signmaster. People come here with many problems on those Vevor cutters. https://forum.uscutter.com/index.php?/search/&q=vevor I use bare bones Flexistarter 8.6 to cut with. Have Flexidesigner 10.5 to design with.

I hope you found my 100's of posts on how to set blade depth. No credit card or post it notes, and with a Clean Cut blade. You will start with only use 1/2 the force or you will break the tip right off. I personally don't use Clean Cut blades. I have been using Seiki blades since 2008. Several of us use 60 degree blades for everything. I can still get 8-9 months months of use on Seiki blades and I cut almost everyday. 5 Blades $24.99 spring included. Ship from Nevada

I have never tried to draw on sheets or ever use sheets with my Graphtec. But have you calibrated the cutter to the cutting software? As in cut/draw a 3" x 3" square and make sure that it measures exactly at 3" x 3"? That adjustment is in Resolution. Mine is set at 1016 in/steps. I have a FC7000 and FC8000. but the same adjustment is made in Resolution in my cutting software.. I use Flexi software. And Graphtec Pro Studio, which is also Flexi software. So you are putting your cutter head exactly where you want it and you are pushing the ORIGIN button on the cutter? You must push the Origin button before sending a job. That Origin point is the measuring point for your design. Most people here are cutting vinyl on 15"-30" wide vinyl rolls. Only a couple hand fulls answer questions. Your cutter will not cut past the pinch rollers unless, you use expand or turn off the pinch roller sensor. I don't know of anyone on here, doing what you are trying to do.

You may like your Mac, but what is great about using Windows, is being able to use the Graphtec cutting controller right from your computer. Most adjustments, can be changed right on your computer. it's a great feature. I don't change anything on my Graphtec.

Make sure your cutter is calibrated to your cutting software. No mention, which cutting software, but most any cutting software has it. Make and cut a 3" x 3" square. Measure it and see if it is exactly 3" x 3". If not, then calibrate it.

On value cutters here, best to use a Tripp-lite Keyspan Adapter with a null modem cable that matches your connection on the cutter. Tripp-lite is the brand name and has it's own driver. Tripp-lite works with vinyl cutters. Others have a cheap Chinese chipset, just like the vinyl cutter has. After downloading driver and rebooting your computer, go into your computer device manager and find the com port number. It must be between 1-4, nothing higher, Then go into your cutting software set up and choose the same com port number. They must match. USB end plugs into your USB on computer, then connect the null modem cable to the Tripp-lite. then the other end to cutter. Find the best price. https://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-Keyspan-High-Speed-USA-19HS/dp/B0000VYJRY/ref=sr_1_1_mod_primary_new?crid=561Q533LR0Y9&keywords=tripp+lite+keyspan+high+speed+usb+to+serial+adapter&qid=1680643286&sbo=RZvfv%2F%2FHxDF%2BO5021pAnSA%3D%3D&sprefix=tripp+lite+keyspan%2Caps%2C486&sr=8-1

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All those error codes are in your user manual telling you cause by code number. Most Graphtecs have the same error codes. This is pretty much the same thing for a CE6000. Saying to make sure the pinch rollers are outside your registration marks. Some users have to put their vinyl on adhesive cuttings mats, so there is plenty of room outside the registration marks. I don't use ARMS, just throwing this out there, that it may be the reason.

Best is Flexisign pro, but you don't spend $4k and put that on a value cutter. Your tech support is Craft Edge and that is who you should be contacting.

Your TEST cut straight from your TEST button on your machine, should be a perfect square and triangle. Is it? If it is not, then you are wasting your time doing any setting changes. That has to be perfect first.

That is too much blade offset. Should start at 0.25 mm and adjust at 0.05 plus or minus.

If your square measures correctly, you don't need to calibrate it. Did you cut a square and it doesn't measure correctly by the sizes you entered into your cutting software?

At the top of your layout screen, should be HELP, look there, or go to the Craft Edge Forum for Sure Cuts A Lot. Search online. I don't own that software. pretty much any software has Calibrate cutter to software. Very few people here use Scalp. The CRAFT EDGE FORUM would probably give you more answers than here.

Also, since you are using a different software, you should calibrate your cutter to the new software. You can check by making/cutting, a 3" x 3" square. Measure it and make sure it is really a 3" x 3" square, It not, then calibrate your software until it is correct,. 3" x 3" square.

Can you post some photos? They speak volumes on to what problems can be. As long as they are not copywritten. What do your TEST cuts right from the machine look like? (photos) It must be correct first, before you cut any design. No mention how you ever set your blade depth. Too many users see to use a credit card or post it notes, to set blade depth, and this is 10 times too much blade exposed, and will cause many problems. Blade depth must be correct, before making any other settings changes. https://forum.uscutter.com/index.php?/topic/39196-setting-blade-depth/

It could be a very long wait to get an answer here. Just contact Roland support. There is only a couple hand fulls of members here that answer questions, We are mostly cutting vinyl. I am here almost every day, I don't know of any of us that owns a Roland BN20-A, that has ever been mentioned. We are just volunteers here. Roland has a forum.

Only by using Windows. Bootcamp etc. Or purchase a cheap windows computer. You don't need a fancy computer for vinyl cutting. I am still back on Windows XP laptop on my FC 7000. Graphtec. I pick up cheap computers on EBAY. But I also have a FC8000, I picked up cheap Windows 7 and added Window 10 to it. One member on here converted her Mac to Windows, so she could use The Graphtec Pro Studio. Which is pretty much like Flexisign Pro, without the RIP. With Windows, you can also use the Graphtec Cutting Controller, which is a big PLUS. Change settings right from your computer. Only a couple Mac users here who answer questions. Most of us are Windows users. This forum is volunteers answering questions. Best to have a designated computer for your cutter.

If on Windows computer, didn't you get FREE Graphtec Pro Studio software with that cutter? Over a $1000 free software program made by Flexi. Design and Cut for Windows only. Even if you still wanted to design in Illustrator, you could still cut with it.

I just told you how to do it. Read it again. I don't use your software. I use Flexistarter. Go to the top of your layout screen, HELP. should be there. Look for Resolution. Calibration. HELP is your user manual for your software. If the size is already correct, then you don't need to change it.

Since you have purchased this cutter, have you ever calibrated the cutter to the software? It should be done. Cut a 3" x 3" square. Then measure it. Make sure it is exactly 3" x 3". If not then you need to change the step size (Resolution) in your cutting software, so the size is exact. Make sure your pinch rollers are the exact same distance from the vinyl edge.

You never mentioned at first that it was a 2nd hand cutter. If gouged up like that, they sure didn't know how to set the blade depth correctly. If using Clean cut blades, start with almost nothing force and work it up a little at a time, or you will break the blade tips off.

This is on Clean Cut blade site. Use 30-50% less downforce

Blades shouldn't dull that quick. I use my (Seiki blades) for about 9-10 months and cut almost every day. 20 force is way too high. You really have to back the force down about 1/2 to use a new Clean Cut blade. or it will break the tip right off. I don't know anything about your different modes in CE7000. I run a Graphtec FC7000-75 and FC8000-75 with Flexi software. Never had a problem out of any either one. If you started with the blade so far out, look at your cutting strip, for gouges and scratches. They will cause problems. A broken tip will cause problems. If you raise the force higher and it cuts thru the wax paper backing, then you have too much blade exposed, as it is not possible, as you should only have enough blade exposed to only cut the vinyl and barely a mark in wax paper backing. Should be running your cutter speed slow until you learn this cutter. I never cut over speed 5, It's not a race. I am usually answering questions here while cutting.