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Everything posted by Wildgoose

  1. You are probably looking with the wrong search terms. That is typically referred to as a clipping or clipping path Clipping Mask or just a Mask. I know there is a post about there here somewhere. I will see if I can find it one maybe someone else can help out. I have a copy of VM Pro but I'm not by that computer at the moment. I am more versed in Adobe. In essence what you are doing is dropping an image in and then using a shape above it to trim (clip) off all the excess outside the top object. At least that is the Illustrator way. I think VM does similar but may use different terms to describe it.
  2. This is a users forum so other than an atta-boy for being a problem solver that's about all we have for you. That's a big logo for a cap. If you do those that large you will want to build in on a curve. Best way I know to do that is to take a piece of paper and cut yourself a pattern of the arc of the face of that hat and then scan that in and use the image as a template to get the right amount of curve on it. You will find hats tend to vary as well so what works on one may not on another (as far as curve). My clients have mostly been doing smaller 2" to 2.5" tall by 3" wide stuff on one side. That has been the recent trend around here. Do they offer different size lower platens for that press? I have a press that has several options and it definilty helps out to have a couple different sizes. I mostly use the smallest one for most hats and only use the bigger one (the regular standard sized that came with the press) for taller logos. When placing the cap the best method I have is to try to seat it as best you can then do a light press to pre-heat and lift the heat platen back up and stretch the hat around the lower platen now that it has some heat to help you. You will find other great uses for the hat press. They work really good for shoulder or sleeve logos and stuff on things like gym shorts and the like.
  3. Wildgoose

    HTV wrinkling

    I do a lot of HTV work. I would concur with Dakota that the press is the likely culprit. Siser is almost never the issue. I have done literally a couple hundred thousand dollars worth of shirts with Siser and only once ever had a bad roll. There is no comparison between a hand operated heating iron style press and even the cheapest budget model of actual clam or swinger press. Siser says you can apply their product with a hand iron but I wish they wouldn't. Seems like every time we see an issue it's frequently when done with a hand iron. Heck, even with a clam press there are potential ways to mess a job up. Buttons or thick sewn seams can hold a press up just enough to cause an issue. They make press pillows and press pads to deal with that sort of thing.
  4. Wildgoose

    Used Titan 2

    I had heard that the mac version of quick books was lacking. I'm glad to hear it's true because that is why I bought the laptop in the first place, just for the books. It has turned into a good workflow to use it over at the cutter so I can still have use of my mac for other work while the cutter is busy. I bought my wife a macbook pro 15" last year as a tax write off. That thing is sweet. She doesn't let me play with it much.
  5. You just need to learn to design with no strokes at all. Use only solid fills. There is a tutorial in the Illustrator section that I put together to help the new-to-cutter crowd with Illustrator.
  6. Wildgoose

    Used Titan 2

    Be sure and try out the free week of SignCut Pro. it is a FULLY Functional trial so you can actually use your cutter without any issues. You can rent it by the week or month if you like it or buy a lifetime dongle. Either way it's a good option to test stuff and totally mac compatible. It's what I use on my mac AND my pc laptop because it will run on both. I design on my iMac and usually cut over on my windows 7 laptop when it will stay running. I know some people run a partition and run a windows environment in order to cut from their macs. I guess if you are real handy with computers thats an option. I am not that awesome and bought my mac to use because it just works. I just find mac compatible programs and don't have so much worry. I have the old pc laptop but the stupid thing gives me a blue screen literally every other time I open it up. I have had the same iMac since 2010 and just finally had a hard drive wear out about a year ago. Dropped a SSD in and back up and running as good or better than new. I love my mac.
  7. Wildgoose

    SC2 rounding edges

    I realize and agree that the corners are well rounded but I don't think it looks bad. Sort of a true stencil vibe to it. Start with your blade exposed length as the first thing to dial in. Most new users have way way way too much sticking out and can even break a tip off. Once set then you can dial in the pressure and do a blade offset test like the one shown, probably at the same time. Just make a series of about 3 small squares about 1/2" each and cut them and play with the offset until they are crisp. You should cut all the way through the vinyl and leave a scratch on the paper backing that you can't feel from the back side. Do not set your pressure on HTV. In the end your regular sign vinyl pressure will probably be about the same but the adhesive carriers are much harder to tell whether you have too much pressure.
  8. Wildgoose

    Cutting Small Vinyl Scraps?

    Should be fine. I never liked the cutting mats but most machines will feed them through. I have seen some flexible cutting mats that looked a lot better than the Cricuit mat I bought which is stiff and can get caught on the front or back edge if you run to close to the edge. Meaning that as the stiff mat is all the way back like you would be at the start it will tip down in the back due to weight and inflexibility and the front edge can poke up and find things to catch on, the same will happen in the back if you get to near the end. I watched some video with some soft semi-clear mat that looked much better for a roll feed cutter. Cricut mats are made for Cricuts specifically that have that flat landing built into them so they don't need or want to bend.
  9. Wildgoose

    Long cuts don't line up

    Slice, this is a USERS forum and therefore a place where true users can voice opinion and real world experience. Your opinion is as valid (and diverse) as anyone else. If we weren't honest with people we would be doing them a disservice in the long run. Being that we are all just users and not paid employee's we are giving our opinion and most of us recommend spending more money on a better cutter if the potential buyer can afford it (or if they actually do a little research before jumping in). This is basically an up-sell so in a way we are actually helping the company who hosts this site by inadvertently talking people into spending more. 30ft away like your picture of the truck shows is NOT a fair representation of what someone who is planning to go into business can expect. Any buyer who pays good money for a truck logo or a sizable sign will be looking at it up close and personal. YES you CAN get by with a budget cutter but with each step up in value you definitely get a better end product. YOU should know this as you have stepped up from the MH to the SC2 (I think that's what you have now). From what I have read you have never owned a top dollar cutter so you're basically talking out of a different orifice of your body on some of these points. For a basic crafter beginner the lower budget machines are sufficient but spending more really does get you more in this instance. I think for this customer has already jumped in so the point is probably moot. To the OP JSAX. When my budget cutter struggled with longer runs I was able to "get by" with a feature that my cutting software of choice (SignCut Pro) has that is called "step-by-step cutting". Not sure what you are using but SignCut Pro has the option to turn on this feature that only cuts a certain amount of a design before moving on down the design. This amount of length is determined by the user so say you have 4ft long stripes like you described. You can set the cutter to cut it in12 or 13" steps. I say 13" on a 48" design because if you miss the length by a small amount at the end it could cause some issues so it's better to give it a little free spaced make the cutting as simple for the machine as possible. This feature works great on simple designs like you are struggling with but does not work well on intricate ones like large strings of small text. The budget cutters are not accurate enough to cut part of a small F or R and be able to come back to it and continue on. The software even has a preview feature that will show you a little video of how the blade will progress though the cut so you can see where you set your sections and decide if you need to make some edits. I suggest you go to the SignCut website and try out the free trial and see if this is something that will help you out. The program is free for a few days or a week but then costs money. When I bought my first cutter they included a years subscription. I ended up buying the lifetime dongle and still use it with my high end $3500 cutter. (I no longer need the step-by-step feature though due to the new cutters excellent tracking) Good luck JSAX and don't be discouraged with your MH. If you stay within the limitations they do fine. Really big or really small detailed graphics you will struggle but text over 1/2" and length below 30" or so can be done fine if the machine is properly set up.
  10. Wildgoose


    Boon, if your cutter is out of calibration with your cutting software this will not fix it. If this worked for you then your software must be right and your other original method of trying to size your work must have been flawed somehow or something else is wrong. Bottom line is if you make a square that is 12" and cut it and it's not 12" then you have a problem. If you made your page dimensions 12" and then stretched your square to match that (which it should already have been if you made it correctly) it shouldn't cut any different. If you make a square 12" and still have to stretch it out to fit your 12" page then you must not be understanding your design measurements. What Skeeter was describing is that you can cut a specific size and measure it and make calibrations to bring them into sync so that when you design something 12" that's what you get. If your other setup items are incorrect such as too much blade sticking out or too high uf cutting pressure it could effect the cut by causing extra drag (usually in front to back movement) which may throw your whole process into a real mess. This is why we always suggest dialing in the cutter before trying to figure out all the other intricacies. Exposed Blade is the very first thing then cutting pressure then cutting speed.
  11. Wildgoose

    Perf / kiss cut Roland gr540

    So he is saying use the low tack as a new carrier so you can cut right through your original without having to dork with the perf/kiss cut? Sounds plausible as the myth busters might say. I have done similar with cutting stencils. I usually had to use more than a single layer in that application to create enough stiffness and if you are doing lots of these that would become cost prohibitive. If you have the option, how about up-selling the perf cut so you still get your full price and sell them on the roll at regular price and then if they must have the perf maybe you can at least make a little more to offset the PIA factor.
  12. Wildgoose

    Plotter TSP 720 Driver search

    There may be another product identifier on the back or the bottom somewhere. I'm not having any luck with the numbers and name on the front panel. I used to have P-Cut 1200 but when you looked on the back it was actually built by a company named "Creation" Your cutter is probably similar. Most cutter technology is old stuff and some generic drivers may work for you.
  13. Does it work ever or never? Have you checked with Graphtec support. This is strictly a users forum so you will only be hearing from users and most do not run mac. I DO! but as mentioned earlier I don't run Graphtec so I don't have any solutions or experience. You might try the 1 week free trial of SignCut Pro and see if it will run and maybe rule out the cutter itself and narrow things down to the cutting master plug-in. SignCut Pro has both a plug-in for AI and also is a stand alone that lets you just open the program and open a cut file and cut it without having to work through AI if you choose not to. That's how I run so that I don't tie up my design ability while the cutter it working.
  14. Wildgoose

    Tips for successful HTV cutting with no mat

    I think you'll be surprised at a Clean Cut Premium blade. When I bought my first one for my old P-Cut it was almost half the cutting force vs the cheap $5 blades I had been using. With the higher end cutters there is less difference. My Summa blades are only 36deg and cut like a hot knife through butter and are a little tougher than the CC blades (because of the lower cutting angle) so I stick with the factory blades for this machine but the Clean Cut are fantastic and a nice upgrade for the budget cutters. Your machine is sort of middle ground as far as budget but might have lower quality blades.
  15. Wildgoose

    Tips for successful HTV cutting with no mat

    You are not understanding my comment. To set your blade properly regardless of cutting force/ pressure applied is to remove it from the machine and drag it with some force (not excessive) across a scrap piece of sign vinyl. The idea is to set it so that the blade can cut all the way through the vinyl but not all the way through the paper carrier too. Once you have this set then you re-install the blade holder back into the cutter and begin adjusting your cutting force from a light setting working into the cut until it cuts all the way through and leaves a light scratch on the paper carrier. It is fine to see a scratch on the carrier but you should not be able to feel it from the back side. When you get your blade set and cutting like this you should still be able to see some clear space between the blade holder and the actual surface of the vinyl. In other words when you are cutting (after having done the proper set up) your blade holder should still be slightly above the vinyl while the blade cuts. You will have to bend down and look at the job as it's cutting and perhaps shine a light from behind or something so you can see if there is a tiny bit of clear space. It will be less than a piece of paper wide but visible by the eye.
  16. Wildgoose

    Tips for successful HTV cutting with no mat

    Have you tried out a premium blade? They cut with less force and therefore less likely to bunch vinyl ahead of the blade. Also when doing your blade set-up which consists of the tips Skeeter posts, some misunderstand so be sure that there is still a tiny amount of free space between the blade holder and the vinyl. With regular sign vinyl some people let the blade holder actually drag on the vinyl, this is not the best and it will cause problems with HTV due to the soft carrier. There should be just a sliver of light between the holder and the material when it's cutting.
  17. Wildgoose

    Forever paper w/sublimation ink

    I think one was the Gildan 42000 if my memory is right. The others were from Conde specific for sublimation and are very thick but also pretty expensive comparatively.
  18. Wildgoose

    Forever paper w/sublimation ink

    Yeah if you can convince them to that in order to get a good look they need to use a white polyester shirt it's fantastic. There are some thicker than normal options out there that don't feel too bad and aren't see though. If you haven't done sublimation it enters completely into the poly fibers and there is zero hand it's pretty awesome. I had troubles with dark navy blues coming through as dark as I wanted for a particular client but I went the cheaper Epson printer way and it may have been that choice which caused me trouble. As long as the colors weren't too bold it was real handy for certain applications.
  19. Wildgoose

    Forever paper w/sublimation ink

    I don't know anything about that "for dark" stuff but as for shirts the higher the polyester content the better. The 65% will look washed out. That isn't always bad if you are going for the old shirt look. You can sublimate a dark color on anything lighter like black onto grey or red. Getting a picture quality like someones actual face or a real mountain scene you will want to be on white. I tried it out for a little while but just couldn't find a market in my area of influence. There are really fun things like flip-flops and key and dog chains and even clipboards that are probably big sellers for people with walk in brick and mortar stores. Mugs are a big market too.
  20. Wildgoose

    Graphtec FC7000 Problem

    Yeah Tessa you're going to have to help us out with more details. PC or Mac? What is the name of the program that you are sending the file from to the cutter? What type of file are you trying to send? Did you make the file or buy it or what? I would be very surprised if it was the Graphtec FC cutter that has the problem those things are tanks. Pretty sure we just have new user syndrome which is great news because you can fix that yourself. (meaning you can learn what's going on and be good to go)
  21. For the 2 or 3 members who were recently in a topic called "help" with a brand new person asking for help. I had to eject them from the conversation and ban them due to immediate attitude, foul language and an apparent unwillingness to take well meaning help with even the slightest grain of salt. I do think sometimes you guys get a little tough on the Mac people and I AM a mac people so I can say that without it being racist. <sarcasm> He/they read the worst possible tone into Skeeters response and while I was trying to send a calm down and rethink your response post he/they posted an f bomb thus ending our association with them. That kind of thing doesn't belong on the forum and I am writing this hoping they read it and realize they probably just pooped in the best bowl of cheerios they could have and good luck finding helpful people on any of the other user forums.
  22. Wildgoose

    First impressions of the Prismcut P28

    You basically just need to practice and be sure you understand the principal and process of moving your cutting head to where YOU want zero to be (X/Y location) Then be sure you know how to zero out those values and the machine at that point only knows it's now at the starting corner of the design. Most designs are not built with a square corner so you are really just telling the machine where the useable edge of the vinyl is and the graphics sits to the left of that point plus a little room for a weed border if you are using one (recommend). Your software should tell you how wide your overall design plus extra weed borders will be and you can easily use a loose ruler or tape to measure to the other side from your chosen zero point to be sure that you have a wide enough vinyl. Higher end machines measure this on their own and place the cutting head in the correct spot and also send that info to the cutting software so it can calculate how many copies can be made in a given available area etc.... When I load my Summa it runs a length of vinyl out equal to about 1.5 times the width and does a side to side measure so it knows what area is available. If it finds the end of the roll before it reaches that 1.5 length it records that too so it knows exactly how much working space there is and sends all that info over to my cutting software (in my case that is SignCut Pro). When it reaches that point in the cut 1.5 times the width then it stops cutting for a sec and rolls out another length verifying that there is still vinyl and keeps the vinyl pulled off the roll so it's not trying to roll the vinyl while it's cutting and then goes back to work cutting the design. It will repeat this process over and over if I happen to be cutting something very long or making multiple copies that are many cards long. I input my design and tell it how many copies I want and push go because the head already settled on the zero point and it's ready as soon as it's done it's measure process. I assume the Graphtec is very similar and probably the Roland cutters as well. More budget friendly machine have you do this kind of thing manually but it's all the same in the end.
  23. Wildgoose

    Laser question

    The laser also complicates the process because it is set off to the side and that offset has to be factored in. Not worth much IMO.
  24. Wildgoose

    First impressions of the Prismcut P28

    I do if possible. My old original P-Cut was interesting and had several varied sizes of grit areas so I had to get creative with it. I think as long as it's not causing potential wadding up it probably doesn't matter. If you are cutting regular sign vinyl with a good stiff carrier you can likely sneak out beyond the rollers as well. My Summa has such crimp force that it ruins the vinyl where it rolls so I always stay within just because of that.
  25. Wildgoose

    First impressions of the Prismcut P28

    Most people get the wrong impression about the blade exposed. The cutters use a pressure sensor to apply pressure to the blade holder to make the cut. When you adjust the pressure it either increases or decreases the pressure which dials in how deep the cut will go into the vinyl. If there is too much blade exposed it doesn't affect the depth of cut but does affect the quality of cut. Picture an exaggerated example where you had 6 Inches of the blade sticking out and dragging around trying to cut accurately and spin properly with the castor action developed by the blade tip. The closer you can get the blade holder to the vinyl without actually touching the vinyl the better. I like to just barely be able to see clear space between there when the blade is down and the cutter is cutting. If you have more sticking out it may affect the clean cuts and it also could cause the blade to accidentally cut all the way through when you load a different product in. Most vinyl is between 2 and 3 mil thick so once you get a blade exposure set it rarely needs to have that adjusted again until you need to change the blade or happen to try and cut something thicker like flock. (I set mine on 3 mil calendared cheap vinyl and then forget about it and just make pressure adjustments when needed). On the pinch rollers, your new cutter unfortunately has only certain grit roller spots. I hate it when they do this. One of the Titans had similar and it really limits the usability. You need to try and cut inside the rollers if at all possible especially with HTV due to it's softer carrier. You will have to measure the various width of the rollers and decide where you will place it in the cutter in order to utilize the width the best. Higher end cutters have a full 6inch or more over on the right side for cutting scraps and you use that area for anything up to about 6 inches and then when you get wider vinyl you move the left side to the next roller and use the right side roller to adjust to exactly the useable width. Why these designers can't get that into their thick skulls I'll never understand. My old P-Cut that I learned on didn't have that but it had a couple wide areas out in weird spots that I could use similarly and was able to cut about any size. Some of the older cheap cutters had a grit bar practically across the whole machine with just a center spot for a bearing, that was a good idea too. Not sure why they would limit you like this. I can't see very well in the picture from the manual, maybe there are more areas than it looks like.