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Showing content with the highest reputation since 09/23/2021 in Posts

  1. 3 points
    My name is Bridget and my handle is MacGrafix. I was a forum member from years ago. Life got the best of me and I had to duck out for a while. I ended up moving from big city life to small town life. I used to be very active here, so I am hoping that one or two remember me. Anyways, I am glad to be back and hope to learn more from the people who are still in the game. I dusted the old cutter off and away we go.
  2. 2 points
    SC2 will not print, ever --- you are right about that.
  3. 2 points
    The vinyl being off after feeding through 46" as you noted in the back is can simply be a sign that you didn't have the vinyl perfectly square to the cutter when you loaded it. This is not necessarily a problem with the cutter, just a matter of not having it perfectly square to the cutter when you loaded it. Have you messed with the tension on the roller clamps? If you have that could be causing issues. Adjusting the roller pressure is a trial and error process and can be very tedious to get the pressures equal across the rollers. cutting stripes like that might be slightly better, but you'll still have drift, but it might not be noticeable after placing the stripe on and lining things up manually. Try turning on the cut in Strips option and set it to like 8". I can't find any documentation, but I believe they way that works is it will cut the design feeding through only 8" of vinyl. So in the above screen shot, it would cut each of those stripes only 8" long, then it would advance the vinyl and continue the cut of the strip for another 8". The idea behind this is even if the vinyl is drifting, in that 8" the drive should me minimal enough that the cuts will all still line up.
  4. 2 points
    So your video only shows us that the vinyl is fed slightly askew. The cutter will not know whether the vinyl is askew or not, the concern is when it cuts, how much drift occurring during the cut. The SC is considered a budget cutter, so there might be some drift that occurs when the vinyl jogs back and forth. I've done 6-foot run on my LaserPoint, and even with the correct blade depth, a good speed, and plenty of slack, I was anticipating some drift to occur.
  5. 1 point
    At some pt we may move to a Roland or better cutter. However I have found the issue lies in SCALP 5. I reverted back to SCALP 4 and has no issue contour cutting. Same design and the cutter gets lost in SCALP 5. You would think when you upgrade a software you would get less issues not more! I have reached out to them to get a response.
  6. 1 point
    A Graphtec, you can stop. It has a HOLD button on the Control panel. Then >continue or clear. But if you lift the media handle, you are done.. I noticed the OP was listing under Prismcut.
  7. 1 point
    Well Crap - Thank you for the reply!
  8. 1 point
    Dakota, I was just thinking the same thing LOL!
  9. 1 point
    I would use Just In The Firestorm (Regular) - convert to outline - put a rectangle thru where the cut out is and punch it out - bada boom bada bing - close enough
  10. 1 point
    That's typically something that you would do using the control panel on the cutter itself. Then you can see if the vinyl or whatever media you're using, is feeding in straight.
  11. 1 point
    Looks like Bank Gothic
  12. 1 point
    You might also try converting the text to paths before saving as EPS. Text doesn't always play well between programs.
  13. 1 point
    Getting 3 parallel lines 46" long from a budget cutter is going to be tuff. Honestly the easiest option would be to make those cuts with a knife and straight edge. The stripe feature of the cutting software might work, I have not played around with that option but I believe you are thinking of the stripe in the wrong direction when you set it to 46.5". I don't believe that will cut your design in stripes. You want to change that number to something like 10" or 12". That should make it cut 10" or 12" inches of the design at a time which should minimize the apparent drift between the parallel lines.
  14. 1 point
    I hope you are measuring the pinch rollers to the edge of they vinyl and they are correct..Equal distance on both sides. I put mine about 1.5 inches from vinyl edge. The marks from the grit rollers won't hurt anything. The marks go away when applying. Have you pre fed the whole distance of vinyl that you are cutting.? You should. There was a tutorial in UScutter for this, in their support section. This is called tracking.
  15. 1 point
    start with the blade depth. check your cutting strip to make sure it's okay. maybe slow the cut speed.
  16. 1 point
    No mention how you set your blade depth. If your blade is not set correctly, it also can cause this. Too much blade exposed will cause a drag on the vinyl. Also, too much speed. Too many people still see instructions that say set with a credit card or post it notes. This is incorrect and way too much blade exposed out of the blade holder. You should barely even see or feel the blade tip out of the blade holder. When you think the blade is so far in the blade holder that your wouldn't even think it would cut, that is probably correct. You use the force of the machine to cut with. Also, make sure your blade is not dull. Check for scratches and gouges in your teflon cutting strip. Catching there can make your vinyl skew . To start with, you should set your blade depth correctly, by taking the blade holder out of the machine, and firmly cut across a piece of scrap vinyl, you will be cutting. You should only be cutting the vinyl and barely a mark on wax paper backing, Adjust blade to get there, Then put the blade holder back in machine, and use the force of the machine to get there, same results, only cutting the vinyl and barely a mark in wax paper backing. You should barely see and feel the blade out of the blade holder. Regular sign vinyl is only 2-3 mil thick. You only cut with the very tip of the blade.
  17. 1 point
    [OP: Hello, I am new and French and hope you will understand my request. I have SignCut and inkcape software. Here is my problem, when I type a text on inkcape and that I save it in EPS, when I load it on the SignCut software this one does not put all the letters to me. Example: I have to cut out the first name ILAN and of course on SignCut it marks me LAN. I don't understand why if someone can help me Thanking you] Pouvez-vous simplement taper le texte directement dans SignCut? Lorsque vous ouvrez le fichier Inkscape enregistré dans SignCut, est-ce qu'il vous demande ou vous dit qu'il doit y avoir une sorte de remplacement de texte? Utilisez-vous un glyphe pour l'une des lettres? Avez-vous essayé de l'enregistrer dans un format différent (c'est-à-dire .eps, .svg. ai, etc.)? Quel est le nom de la police que vous utilisez? [Can you just type the text directly in SignCut? When you are opening the saved Inkscape file in SignCut, is it asking or telling you that it there needs to be some kind of text replacement? Are you using a glyph for any of the letters? Have you tried saving it in a different format (ie. .eps, .svg. ai, etc.)? What is the name of the font that you're using?]
  18. 1 point
    There is also https://www.the-blueprints.com/ I didn't search for specified vehicle, but it may be there. Another https://mr-clipart.com/int/ctcinfo.php
  19. 1 point
    Several companies offer a disk with vehicle (wrap) templates. For instance: https://www.provehicleoutlines.com (USCUTTER lists such a disk on their sales website, but it's "Sold Out" or "Unavailable" -- perhaps call them and see what's up with that).
  20. 1 point
    We'll take that as a "WIN" for the home team. Congrats.
  21. 1 point
    You can try and cut down on the jerky movements by cleaning up nodes. It can be time consuming, depending on size, the design, and quantity of nodes. I think about like this - for every node I see, that's an stop & go point that's is being sent to the cutter, the more I can minimize those, the smoother the cut I will tend to get.
  22. 1 point
    OK. If you happen to have a 48" wide media with more than 2 pinch rollers in place at a time, please make sure you start from one end and clamp them down in the sequence. A lot times, entrapment of some air in between the cinyl and the knurled roller may cause the vinyl not to move in a straight line or in a flat plane, causing it to bow. I guess we all would like a video to see from the time you start clamping to when it starts to bow. If you do not mind, please share it sometime. I guess someone among us will definitely be able to figure out why it is happening if it is seen when happening
  23. 1 point
    Does the vinyl even lay straight out of the cutter on a flat surface? Has humidity gotten to it? If It lays straight, you should be able to put your hand in the middle of the vinyl and hold it down before clamping the pinch rollers.
  24. 1 point
    Hey, turtlemechanic, I have a really good suggestion for you ---- spend the fifty bucks and grab VinylMasterCUT. It's a very sophisticated program that you'll be happy with using for your work. Alternatively, give yourself a chance to see if you like SignBlazer, it'll run the SC just fine (use 'Liyu' for the model in setup). Not supported by anyone (except us, if you have specific questions, there are a few oldtimer users, including me, of that software).
  25. 1 point
    Actually the higher end vinyl cutters only have 2 pinch rollers and work perfect. Tracking is great. I have a 30" Graphtec, works great with 2 pinch rollers. I would not want a 3rd pinch roller. And that is what tech support is trying to tell you. It takes a lot more time and experience to set up the value cutters, which has been mentioned here a zillion times. This is a good reason why people upgrade to the higher end cutters. And you purchased the least expensive value cutter. So, don't expect it to be a Graphtec or a Roland. for under $300.00 that you paid. And if you are not doing this, you should always pre feed your vinyl enough for the order. Never be pulling directly from the roll while cutting.