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Showing content with the highest reputation since 07/04/2020 in Posts

  1. 3 points
    There is a checkbox called "Absolute Position" (otherwise known as WYSIWYG). Rarely will that be the choice for average cutting, but seems you are in need of it for this project.
  2. 3 points
    This video should show you how to do what you're wanting.
  3. 3 points
    just wait until you upgrade your blades to Clean Cut 60* blades, it'll need a little more tweaking, but it'll be worth it.
  4. 3 points
    Ditto. Go back to basics, and go through this list, step-by-step, because it will help to eliminate what's happening. If you can sucessfully cross off the list as you go down, then it helps the rest of us to narrow the actual cause. Set the blade depth properly. Slow the cut down a little (there is no set speed, and every machine model is different). Check the force of the blade, so that you're not cutting into the backing, but simply leaving a mark. Find the owner's manual and see what they recommend for the offset, and adjust the numbers up or down and see what kind of results you get. Start there and lets what kind of results you get, and we can help you figure it out.
  5. 3 points
  6. 3 points
    The process is more than a single step. 1. Set the blade exposure (often called the blade depth but is different than the cutting pressure) There are often instructions that are WRONG that say use half the thickness of a credit card. That is way too much and can cause you to ruin a good blade tip. To set this correctly remove the blade holder from your machine and, by hand, drag it across a piece of scrap vinyl with some force. Not super hard but enough to definitely cut. You should only be cutting through the vinyl and maybe half way into the paper backing. If you can cut all the way through then you have too much sticking out. When you get this set correctly you know that it is impossible to cut clear though. Typical cheap vinyl is 3 mil thick and high end vinyl is 2 mil thick so if you set this on 3 mil vinyl (cheap stuff) you will be good for both as well as most HTV. Occasionally you may find material that is thicker and you'll have to reset it but otherwise for normal day to day work you won't need to make adjustments to this again. 2. Set your speed and down force to relatively slow and light settings. I recommend about 1/4 or 1/3 of the max speed. If your machine can cut at 400 set it at 100 to start with. You can always speed it up later. For pressure you will want to start off light and do small increments until you find the pressure that will cut all the way through. When you get the pressure set just right you should be cutting cleanly through the vinyl and scratching the paper carrier but not be able to feel the cut from the back side. If you cut a little too deep you will find the backing paper sometimes coming up with the vinyl. 3. Set your blade offset whatever the owners manual said was the recommended amount. You will have to tweak this but they will usually tell you what to start at. Typically .25-.35mm is common. 4. If your software has a test cut option use it or you can create a test by making a small 1" square and cut it. If your cuts look like the one you posted you have too much offset. 5. There is a thing called overcut that sometimes needs to be used if the ends of your start and end points don't meet. Most of the time you won't need this. If you do it theoretically would be somewhere around the same value as your offset or less.
  7. 2 points
    Spoke with Karl (President of US Cutter) and he was great. Sending me a replacement part and hooking me up with talk time with Support to provide guidance regarding how to pull and replace this portion of the unit.
  8. 2 points
    Could be a drive starting to fail and losing sectors
  9. 2 points
    Do you have the pinch roller force all the way down on Strong? It does have 3 settings. What type of media? Best to contact Graphtec support for that.
  10. 2 points
    Yeah the T's look pretty good from here. The little tag at the bottom is probably from the blade being at a different angle when it is dropped and then it rotates into position as it starts to travel. Overcut like mentioned will cause the cut to run a smidge longer and connect the end to the start. Don't over-do it.
  11. 2 points
    You definitely want to be very sure that you got that blade set correctly because it will cause all sorts of mayhem if it's out too far. When cutting you should just barely be able to see some light between the blade holder and the vinyl when you bend down at eye level. The holder should almost touch the vinyl when in there cutting but not quite. If there is much more than a teeny tiny bit of clearance then you can have weird issues plague you that affect the cut quality. From your pictures at .25 and .35 it still looks like you need a little more like maybe .40 or something. You usually want to push it past the middle until it starts to show tails like in that picture and then you can determine the very middle and be as spot on as possible. Like looking for the high limit and the low limit and then settle in the middle. If you run a quality blade you may find that you need to tweak that a little bit in 3 months if you wear the tip down. (assuming you do a lot of cutting) Most of us who do it professionally can get 6-8 months out of a quality blade before needing to change them out. Sometimes I change them just to be sure and keep the old still good one for cutting something nasty like glitter HTV.
  12. 2 points
    So not knowing much about the pixmax cutter. On the cutter itself can you get to a screen that lets you adjust the blade offset or is it totally up to the software? I use the older version of SignCut but it will have the same options. In the cut tab (in my version it is a pair of scissors...see pic) you will have an option to either use the machine settings for force and speed or the software settings. SignCut drivers determine a lot of what you see on this and other pages so things may look and be different for you but if you can check that part whether you need to decide the blade offset in the software or if you can set it on the machine itself (preferred IMO) Your layout may be different. The good news is that SignCut has actual real people who will contact you soon and can even remote in to your computer if needed and get you running. I love SignCut. I use it in large part because I am on a mac but it will work on either platform. I design offsite in Adobe Illustrator and then just use SignCut Pro 1 to cut with. The new version you have has design tools I think but I have not tried it out. I own the lifetime dongle so I decided to leave well enough alone and not mess with something that is working for me.
  13. 2 points
    wildgoose is our signcut expert - hopefully he will show up
  14. 2 points
    I would have expected to see more of a difference - what cutting software are you using (some have offset in them that will override the plotter) what degree blade are you using?
  15. 2 points
    sure looks like some deep cuts in the backing paper - maybe just me but . . .
  16. 2 points
    wildgoose covered it pretty well in his post. so many new people start with too much blade exposure and going too fast - take your time and dial it in using his instructions
  17. 2 points
    first thing I can tell the offset is way off - next question is are you pulling slack from the roll so the plotter doesn't have to straining and slip to pull it off the roll?
  18. 2 points
    Hmm ... maybe I need to up my level of OCD.
  19. 2 points
    I swear the blade holder is dropping down and lifting up.
  20. 2 points
    Brush Script & Cooper Black are the fonts
  21. 2 points
    Sounds like you're getting really great mileage out of your iMac! I've upgraded and hobbled my (Early 2009) MacPro now and again to keep this beast running. Every time I pull it out, and open it up for a deep (physical) cleaning, it's never the same and gets progressively worse. I guess it likes all the dust bunnies it accumulates and really hates to be dust free I ended up dropping in an additional HD for the sole purpose of running Win7 on it, so I could do my invoicing with Quicken on the Windows side. I tried Quickbooks for Mac and I can honestly say it epically sucks, hence the Windows. The added bonus for running Win7 on it was that I got to run the cutter on it too, so YEA! Now it's time is coming to an end and it's dying a very slow death. I have a 2019 MBP to replace it. I find myself working more in the living room rather than in my office now ... I can't figure out if that's a good thing or not
  22. 2 points
    Be sure and try out the free week of SignCut Pro. it is a FULLY Functional trial so you can actually use your cutter without any issues. You can rent it by the week or month if you like it or buy a lifetime dongle. Either way it's a good option to test stuff and totally mac compatible. It's what I use on my mac AND my pc laptop because it will run on both. I design on my iMac and usually cut over on my windows 7 laptop when it will stay running. I know some people run a partition and run a windows environment in order to cut from their macs. I guess if you are real handy with computers thats an option. I am not that awesome and bought my mac to use because it just works. I just find mac compatible programs and don't have so much worry. I have the old pc laptop but the stupid thing gives me a blue screen literally every other time I open it up. I have had the same iMac since 2010 and just finally had a hard drive wear out about a year ago. Dropped a SSD in and back up and running as good or better than new. I love my mac.
  23. 2 points
    Yah, so rather than just sinking money, right off the bat, at least the OP can download and test cut the trial versions of the programs. SCALP isn't the only cutting software option for Mac, it's just the only one that USC offers. Either way, there's a small learning curve, but if you can test drive and see how well it actually works with the machine first, then a better informed decision can be made.
  24. 2 points
    Sounds like you have the Command on the wrong command. Flexipro is Command HP-GL. Any Graphtec software is Command GP-GL (Graphtec Language)
  25. 2 points
    You need to create your own niche'. Meaning, create something that others don't have. If your just selling what others are selling , then it is just about price and who can be the lowest. No one makes money that way. And don't do copyrighted decals. They will get you in a lot of trouble, when you get caught. These companies have lawyers just looking for people who are violating their owners rights, that is their job.