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  1. 5 points
    Yeah, cutters are not like other electronics where a new/upgrade model comes out every year. There have been guys on the forums using the same cutter for decades.
  2. 5 points
    This ain't rocket science to create a similar design! Where's peoples' graphics skills? How come if humans are in contact with advanced alien civilization we have gotten dumber?!!!
  3. 4 points
    Yes, my cutter is 11 years old and I am still using it on an XP laptop. I have never had a problem with my cutter in 11 years.
  4. 3 points
    Here is a full Tail-Pack. FreeTailPack.pdf
  5. 3 points
    The PrismCut is packaged with a 15" x 15" carrier sheet, but we sell larger carrier sheets that will work with the PrismCut if you need more room to work with. There aren't any hard limitations coded into the PrismCut that would prevent you from etching something anywhere the blade can reach, but practicality may be more of a factor here than it would be with Oracal 651. I expect that we will have more information about etching soon.
  6. 3 points
    I have a niche' that works well for me. That's all I am saying.
  7. 3 points
    They do, $190, for a 24"x10 yard roll. Not a bad price really. The price for reflective from anyone is going to be high, just the way it is. It's a specialized vinyl, not as easy to make, and not as much demand for it as normal vinyl. It does look good though.
  8. 3 points
    I generally take a peek at where I plan to buy said vinyl, decide my minimum order and shipping and then know my actual cost. I divide that up into a unit rate. More times than not I charge for the whole piece whether it is a yard or 5 or whatever and any left over stuff I sell off later for pure profit. If it's etch vinyl for instance I consider it a specialty vinyl order and list it that way on the invoice.
  9. 3 points
    bet it still isn't as strong as that stuff they print decals for teflon pans on - seriously what is that stuff? and why lol
  10. 2 points
  11. 2 points
    Dakotagrafx thanks!! That was it. I was able to use the reduce node tool in the software to correct the problem. Thanks for the help!
  12. 2 points
    What are your plans to design? If you have no other vector programs you might try Inkscape (free) and if so SignCut will cut it's native SVG file as well altho the size may need checked I had some svg files come through mis-sized
  13. 2 points
    Any way you can screen shot a view of the computer screen it might help. I use Pro 1 myself so I'm pretty knowledgeable in SignCut. I am attaching a small left chest logo that should load and cut without issues. It's in Adobe v8 which is SIgnCut's favorite format and it's going to be reversed because its for HTV but for what you are doing that won't matter. It should be exactly 4 inches or 101.6 mm wide. If it's not then you need to calibrate your SignCut program. A note about workflow, it's best to design the work in the size you want it rather than resize them on the fly. Over the long haul you will find yourself needing to do additional work and trying to remember the specifics of what size you made things months or even days earlier becomes impossible. I save my files off with specific names that help me know which ones to choose without having to open them and check. I this case it's a stacked LC file meaning it's multiple color for a Left Chest and that also tells me it's reversed for HTV. If it was a 4 inch decal I would have called it 4in rather than LC Ashcraft stacked LC.ai
  14. 2 points
  15. 2 points
    how many times has someone tried signblazer that has not been updated in 8+ years and it fixed a problem caused by scalp - - - putting pro on the end of scal was a genius marketing tool but very misleading IMHO
  16. 2 points
    So after a full week of testing. I have upgraded to Illustrator Creative Cloud and started Using Sign Cut Pro 2. Sign Cut suggested adding a little overcut in the settings on the graphtec and I can say it has been incredibly better on cuts. Very crazy. I don't have a clue where the problem really is.
  17. 2 points
    I just take the job and decide what it's worth to me. So for instance say someone wanted 10 small decals that were 4 inches square but in a color or product that I don't stock. Say I spent $10 on a yard some premium vinyl so it would cut nice. and another $10 for shipping then I know the minimum material COST is going to be $2 each even though the 10 decals will only take up a third of the yard at most. Then I decide how much my time and equipment is worth. Say we be conservative and say $50 per hour shop rate and the job should take a half hour. So there is another $2.50 per each bringing the cost total to $4.50 plus 20% margin puts them at $5.40 per each plus sales tax depending on your locale. $54 plus tax and probably not worth the time it takes to do it. I didn't even add in for app tape and the half hour to do it is a nice thought but that kind of stuff can take twice that long real fast. Now you can see why me and some of the others on the forum just shake our heads at the idiots on pinterest that think they're gong to make their millions on stuff like that for $0.50 or a dollar each. Different story if you are doing 300 pieces. Then you can both cut your costs down and the price per each down and actually make a buck. The best part of this kind of job is when you suffer through it because you are trying to build clients and then they come back and want more. How many? they say 30 this time. You say ok. They don't ask for a new price so you bust out 30 out of the extra vinyl you bought and all in almost the same time you did the 10 and you get full price with no costs. That happens too so don't get discouraged. But the ones that say "so and so is selling them for half that" then I just shrug and say I have no idea how they can afford to, have a nice day. About half the time they still have me do them. Actually I have all but quit regular adhesive vinyl because the market is too tight and there are too many soccer moms with cricut cutters doing them for nothing. I mostly do t-shirts. Everyone wants a t-shirt and you get to make a little off the shirt AND the vinyl.
  18. 2 points
    The box is 6" w x 24" .on 4 sides, cut 1 side off.
  19. 2 points
    I believe, and I could be wrong, the redsail and the MH cutters have basically the same guts. If that is the case, the force, speed, and origin have to be set on the cutter, they are not software controllable.
  20. 2 points
    The ARMS system while sounding great is not something very many people utilize. I have a $3500 cutter and have only ever used mine two or three times just to see how it functioned. If you don't have a printer too then it's sort of a moot option. Some print on t-shirt transfer paper and contour cut those which is a potential. Printing on real vinyl requires an expensive printer. My journey started out with a budget cutter called a P-Cut which was probably similar to the SC2 or maybe the Laser point you are looking at (minus the ARMS) It was a stepper motor machine and made for entry level home and hobby. The L3 is similar and a great choice if you want to get your toes wet and see what happens. The Titans are a budget minded commercial venture that are trying to hit the gap between the lower budget starter cutters and the high end name brand machines. They seems to do pretty good overall and those with the Servo motors are going to run smooth and quiet. Tracking is still considerably less accurate than the name brand cutters though. The max cutting length according to the specs on the L3 is 180 inches and 300 inches on the Titan 2. When you go to the most chosen options like the Graphtec, Summa or Roland they don't even give it in inches because it's like 50 meters or whatever the longest roll is. The cost is considerably more for a name brand cutter but so is the build quality and reliability. I did the toes wet thing and learned a LOT before I decided to spend more cash on a better unit. I am grateful for the experience that I would NOT have gained had I went the expensive route right off. Budget cutters are much more finicky and require "fine tuning" to get good cuts. This is painful to experience but great training. If budget is not a concern and you can swing a CE6000-60 you would likely never need to do anything else. They will last you for years. The Titan market is middle ground and is better than the bottom but is the cost worth the difference? Maybe. The T2 is built pretty tough and designed with a business or starer business in mind rather than just a weekend warrior. Just remember that servos are better but there are also grades of quality within the servo realm too. Servos are pretty much like a variable speed without limitations to minimum movements. I think the Copam that Dakota mentioned had commercial grade stepper motors that were a tighter steps and built to last a long time. Just avoid the very bottom MH. It's sort of the doorbuster black friday cutter and they sell a bunch of them but they are very problematic and frustrate a lot of people.
  21. 2 points
    If you want a better model then buy the Titan 3, that is the updated model. . Titan 1 is a stepper.No Laser. Titan 2 servo, manual laser. Titan 3 Servo with ARMS. Those are the models. Nothing to upgrade. 3 different models, each upgraded from the first.
  22. 2 points
    It WILL matter a little because if you turn on the software control you'll have to be sure the speed and force are correct. If you have those on the control panel I guarantee you have a way to zero out. It may be named differently but it's there. My budget computer I think I had to put in in offline mode to get to the right options. You should also be able to pre-feed your vinyl back and forth and move your cutter head over if you need to. When done getting it all set right you would zero out. Good luck and it would be great if you took the time to report back. You'd be surprised how often people don't and future searches just find a thread with questions and no final solution.
  23. 2 points
    I like the idea of etching and scoring, but I wonder how much toll it will take on the machine because the amount of force required. Since it isn't a flatbed, how does one scroll the dog tags for the proper etching? and what happens to the shavings? Inquiring minds want to know.
  24. 2 points
    Are you pushing the ORIGIN button on the cutter before you send the cut? You must, that is where the cutter starts measuring from. Most cutting software will go to the point of where the design was created first, then come back to finish the order. I use Flexi software and make large designs, 20" x 96"L. The cutter may travel 3 ft and start cutting, then come back to the front to finish the rest of the design.
  25. 2 points
    Didn't find the exact, but it's pretty darn close. Gulya Script. You can find it on dafont.com