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Showing content with the highest reputation since 03/25/2019 in all areas

  1. 6 points
    every professional I know uses paper tape - lots of hobbyist use clear. anyone that has tried applying clear to something like a larger back window with a compound curve know that clear will not conform to the curves like paper will
  2. 5 points
    Update: Graphtec cutter is running great! Coral x8 I have a little learning curve with but able to navigate okay through it. Goes knight press I have but still boxed up, other projects have been priority but I will get to the point on making shirts and hoodies. Been doing some glass carving with the help of the graphtec. I want to thank you all so much for helping me get going with this!
  3. 5 points
    Trust me, I am a 69 year old woman, and I don't ask for help either. I figure out a way to do things myself ALOT!!! I cut a 60" w x 150 yd roll on my miter saw. I had won 1/2 off at a vinyl business, so I bought the biggest roll that I could get. So I got 2,, 30" rolls out of the deal.
  4. 4 points
    So I’m a big saints fan living in NY as some of you know and I couldn’t pass up this font I found in my illustrator. Love the font. Well without further ado I’m sure you’ll all get this if you watched any playoff football this season.
  5. 4 points
    My trick is to actually save all my HTV cut files already mirrored so I have to remember to reverse them if I want to cut regular vinyl. It's much easier to catch that it's backwards writing than to remember that it needs to be backwards for shirt work.
  6. 3 points
    I have been using Main Tape, medium tack for many years, now. I never have complaints. I ship everything. MAIN Tape Is now owned by NEKOOSA. I purchase my Main Tape from a distributor out of Michigan.
  7. 3 points
    Do as above, and make sure you push the ORIGIN button on your vinyl cutter, before you send your file.
  8. 3 points
    loosen the roll up, put a piece of pvc pipe inside where you want to cut it in half. put it thru the miter saw. Macgyver here.
  9. 3 points
    I got F&M’s sample sheet this past weekend and I finally had time to text the formula that I was interested in. Let me tell you I’m super impressed and I just hope it holds up to the wash test. I did go a little high on temp but that’s cause every review said to raise it as well as I saw a lot of YouTube videos showing the issues. So off the bat I put it to 355 with heavy pressure for 10 seconds and it came out beautiful. Clearly this is now a demo shirt and I don’t own the rights to this logo it’s just clearly what they sent me in the free sample packaging. Lol
  10. 3 points
    If it's a known customer, they know how to install/apply the decal properly, and it's a flat surface, I will give them clear - keep in mind, that once the waxed paper backing comes off, the clear app tape then becomes frosted, and trying to see through it for alignment purposes really isn't any easier than using paper. I see you point, and I understand - I certainly will say that I'd prefer to look at other people's decals with clear app tape, because I can see it better, but I would rather buy it with paper tape, because 1) the paper tape will allow the decal to contour to a non flat surface better, and 2) I can do a wet application if I needed. The decision is either made for you by the customer, or if they have no preference, then always opt for the paper. If they choose clear, at least do yourself a favor and explain the advantages of paper (disadvantages of clear), and they can make an informed decision and at the very least, you CYA.
  11. 3 points
    Can't argue with that. I have also seen people install and think the clear is part of the decal and leave it there. I had one guy do it with a 12 x 12 inch decal. He had no idea.
  12. 3 points
    Just because paper tape doesn't look professional, it doesn't mean that it is not the right choice for the job. . I have always used paper tape. Most professional people do.
  13. 2 points
    I run into the issue sometimes as well. When I do, it's usually because it's time for me to age out my vinyl and/or application tape - which means, buy new vinyl and/or app tape. It happens, and it probably happens to me more often than it does to others on the forum who do this for a living. I'm a hobbyist and 'word of mouth' business, this is not my "day job" so I do not go through vinyl as quickly as others. When I run into this issue, it's usually because my vinyl is old and/or the app tape is old.
  14. 2 points
    I think of two common errors. 1. Fully prepare the surface. An final alcohol wipe after a thorough cleaning is always a good idea to make sure there are no finger prints or other residue. Rubbing alcohol works fine. 2. Pulling the tape off properly. Start on one corner and pull up a little bit, fold it flat against itself so the non-sticky sides are touching and using the tackiness as traction for your fingers slide the folded over portion across or down. This will put the force of removal at a nearly flat angle to the vinyl so you're not lifting the installed vinyl up as bad.
  15. 2 points
    Sawgrass inks are expensive. Finding deals on them is rare but they are out there. I am not doing too much sublimation with my SG3110dn printer but I know that anytime I need to do some sublimation it will work like new. There have been times when I have not used it for 6-7 months and the nozzle check shows no clogged heads. I have never set it to do any automatic cycles.
  16. 2 points
    no. you want to have slack in the vinyl, basically enough for the design your cutting versus pulling off the roll. yes, you set the origin to start on the corner of the vinyl you have loaded. like everyone has said it isn't supposed to dragging the side of the cutter. sorry I forgot to load a pic of mine with the cover off. I will go get some of mine loading vinyl and setting the origin, wrong or right its how I do it. lol
  17. 2 points
    You should have had a contract already signed with 1/2 down. Contract should have covered this.. You could have sent it online...Mail.
  18. 2 points
  19. 2 points
    You might try using some parchment paper to help you out with your project. I did an instructional contribution on it a few years back In the case of a vehicle with multiple layers I try to do the layering at the shop so I just have one layer to put on when I get there. You can fight bubbles with layered vinyl so sometimes it's doesn't work as well if the layers actually overlap. If the layers are just side by side with space between each color then it works really good. You can use a piece of parchment right on the vehicle if you are layering there at the install. Just pull off your carrier and lay a piece or parchment back in it's place prior to aligning the layer onto the car door. It will aid in getting set in the right place. Use a top or bottom hinge once you get it to where you want it and slide the parchment out and squeegee center out. If you have compound curves on the door you will definitely want to pre-stack all your layers as mentioned because getting them all aligned with compound curves is really hard to do accurately.
  20. 2 points
    Yes, sort of, No. You can see through paper take well enough to line things up usually, color of vehicle and color of vinyl will have some effect. By over lap, do you mean use multiple piece of transfer tape to cover the decal? Yes, it can be done, but it should be avoided. Where the tape overlaps you are likely to get bubbles in the decal. Now if you have say two lines of text you can have the tape overlap in the black space between the letters, no problem. Shape and size of the mark is up to you, what ever works best for you. I typically use a diamond shape, just my personal preference.
  21. 2 points
    I think the rest have pointed you in the right direction. If it's cutting sometimes fine then it's probably a communication error. Pay special attention to Skeeters post on the correct brand of adapter because there are lots of other brands that just don't work with cutters.
  22. 2 points
    the output 'plug' that you're looking at is most likely a VGA port - in case you want to run an external monitor on a laptop, or a second monitor on a desktop.
  23. 2 points
    Unless your buying a Tripp-lite Keyspan Adapter or a Belkin, which are guaranteed to work with a vinyl cutter, your probably buying a USB to serial cable as cheap as the cheap Chinese chipset in the vinyl cutter. So it makes no difference to help the vinyl cutter run better. Those are the brand names.. If your computer has a serial connection, You could go straight serial, if that cutter does also. Ditch the Artcut and try a different software that has that vinyl cutter listed on it. Vinyl Master has a FREE trial. The baud rate on that cutter should be 9600. You will need the null modem cable that came with that cutter to use with a Tripp-lite Keyspan Adapter. Just use a standard length cable. Example . Find one close to you, They sell worldwide. Find the best price. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Tripp-Lite-Keyspan-High-Speed-USB-to-Serial-Adapter-PC-Mac-USA-19HS/113688800975?epid=1194060954&hash=item1a78616ecf:g:yBsAAOSwcZ1cNBmS Vinylmaster.com
  24. 2 points
    But most people, with small decals, don't install with the backing paper. They will peal the backing off then position the decal to install.
  25. 2 points
    May also help to check the profiles of the people who have been giving you information. There is over 30 years of combined experience helping you.