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Showing content with the highest reputation since 08/23/2020 in all areas

  1. 5 points
  2. 5 points
  3. 4 points
    I would keep the name at the rear on both sides. The same with the phone numbers.
  4. 3 points
    You could download a trial of the version you would like to try, and see if it is worth it to you.
  5. 2 points
    search for setting blade depth. It's been posted hundreds of times on here. When vinyl is lifting, you have too much blade exposed. Slow the cutter down.
  6. 2 points
    Make sure that the pinch rollers are over the grit rollers on the bottom. Never be pulling from a roll while cutting. Always have enough vinyl prefed and free. Other than that you don't give enough info of what you are doing. Or showing how you have the vinyl in the vinyl cutter. Put pinch rollers equal distance from the vinyl edge.
  7. 2 points
    it's hard to tell for sure from that wireframe view, but it looks like you'll want to weld all the black as well. Two separate welds of course. Select all pink, weld it, select all back weld it, then cut by color.
  8. 2 points
    you need to isolate the all the pink and weld (combine) it together. you can check if you successfully got it welded it by checking the wireframe/nodes. then cut by color.
  9. 2 points
    I linked to the moment she talks about using a plotter but the whole story and what she does with paper is amazing.
  10. 2 points
    An update: Scratch from the record it being a grit roller. The "tails" issues ended up following the designs regardless of where I loaded material. I tried a new blade holder at one point and the issue got better, but was still present and intermittent. That's when I packed my blade holder with grease. For better or for worse, that's been my solution, and it's working like a charm. I packed my original holder first, and it began working better than my new holder. Satisfied that I hadn't ruined anything, I packed my new blade holder, and it's working perfectly so far. As far as I can tell, for what ever reason, my blades are wobbling in the holder. I've tried USCutter blades, and the Roland variety from Amazon. I don't know what other brands to try, but neither of those helped the issue. I used marine grease because it has much more "slip" than wheel bearing grease. Petroluem Jelly may be similar and work just as well. I figured I'd update the thread with this info. I can't say it's the RIGHT way of fixing the problem, but it is working.
  11. 2 points
    And just a point of clarification, die cutting is done with custom made dies which are stamped onto the media and cut it, kind of like a cookie cutter cutting through dough.
  12. 2 points
    tiny anything, especially text - slow the speed of the cutter, and get yourself a 60* blade if you're not using one right now.
  13. 2 points
    That's pretty small text and even with everything set perfect your cutter may still have a hard time. Just so you know. Getting the blade depth correctly will go a long way though to getting the cut to come out clean.
  14. 1 point
    Hello, has anyone had success using their cutter when they are connected to a 3.0 or 3.1 type "C" port on a newer Mac. I have tested with a few models and if the communication does happen to work, it always ends up with the dreaded diagonal lines or stops mid cut. Is anyone successfully running their "value" or any model cutter for that matter connected to a Type "C" port? Currently I am testing a US Cutter Laserpoint 1 which worked great on an older Mac with 2.0 ports. It is connected with the supplied USB cable and a USB-C to USB apple adapter. This model uses FTDI drivers and they state there are known issues when connecting to 3.0 ports. https://www.ftdichip.com/Support/Documents/TechnicalNotes/TN_152_USB_3.0_Compatibility_Issues_Explained.pdf I have also tested with the serial cable and a FTDI USB adapter with the same results using Sure cuts a lot, SignCut pro 1 and pro 2, as well as Easy Cut studio. Any feedback or information is greatly appreciated!
  15. 1 point
    Roller marks don't hurt a thing, the marking is caused by the grit roller on the bottom of the wax paper backing.. They come out when you apply the vinyl in most cases. You start creating other problems when you go adjusting the pinch rollers.
  16. 1 point
    having the pinch rollers jerk the vinyl off of a roll because there wasn't sufficient slack is not a good thing.
  17. 1 point
    At the heart of it, cutters/plotters are very basic machines and once the actual problem is identified most of them can be fixed or parts replaced rather easily.
  18. 1 point
    masks are just that, masks. They don't actually change the design of the cut file, just the way it looks on screen. I'm unfamiliar with AI, but I would assume the easiest way is probably to convert the strokes to paths in AI before trying to open in SCAL, at least that's how I would do it in Inkscape. If I'm not designing in the cut software I try to get the file exactly the way I want it cut in the design program. If it doesn't look right in wire frame mode, it's not going to cut right either.
  19. 1 point
    small or large - I use paper tape too - 4075rla or 4076rla are my goto tapes - clear is for the hobbiest that sell at swap meets as it will not conform to a compound curve like many back windows
  20. 1 point
    I actually had a bad blade. I returned it and did what @MZ SKEETER suggested and it’s cutting great now. I’ve been able to cut .5mil matte Mylar with the deep-cut blade for a Silhouette Cameo. I can also cut .7mil with 2 passes
  21. 1 point
    Thank you for taking the time to respond. I will try that and pray it works. I didn’t have the blade holder under the rim. It is cutting and I’m not having any problems with my cutter. Thank you both. I appreciate y’all taking time out of your day to respond to my issues. Take care!
  22. 1 point
    also make sure the ridge on the blade holder is UNDER the tab meant to hold the blade holder in place and not on top like your old uscutter me series. Otherwise the blade holder can just ride up and not touch
  23. 1 point
    People have all kinds of problems when they do a firmware update to their Graphtecs. Best not to update the firmware. You can use Signblazer with the Graphtec CE5000. It is free. I think they are using the Graphtec 50 or the Copam.
  24. 1 point
    You must make sure your blade depth is set correctly. Do not use a credit card thickness or a post it note. Set the blade depth to the vinyl your going to cut and cut slow. This is correct way to set your blade depth. To start with, you should set your blade depth correctly, by taking the blade holder out of the machine, and in your hand, firmly cut across a piece of scrap vinyl, you will be cutting. You should only be cutting the vinyl and barely a mark on wax paper backing, Adjust blade to get there, Then put the blade holder back in machine, and use the force of the machine to get there, same results, only cutting the vinyl and barely a mark in wax paper backing. You should just barely see and feel your blade tip out of the blade holder.
  25. 1 point
    Great, glad you got it and remember that blade offset on a Graphtec is ZERO. Your cuts look much better after you adjusted the blade depth.