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  1. 5 points
    Looking at your first picture, I believe you are cutting too deep and cutting into the backing paper. Reset your blade length as per MZ SKEETER'S instructions and reduce your pressure settings. You should barely be making an indentation on the backing paper with your blade.
  2. 4 points
    titan 2 or 3 is a good machine, but you get a whole lot more for just few hundred more. so a 3rd for graphtec
  3. 4 points
    comments should be about the problem - not personality conflicts. if it continues the thread will be locked Dirt fisherman - keep in mind the people on here helping volunteer their time (many for several years) when it appears someone is not even trying to find answers themselves they do get frustrated and someone with 19 years of experience they might be expecting them to have a solid knowledge of basic functions - - Most of these people read EVERY post on here trying to help - so long winded replies calling everyone condescending puts people in a defensive mode instead of a helpful mode - lets keep the questions and answers condensed without getting personal.
  4. 3 points
    I bought my Graphtec new in 2008, and have NEVER, and I mean never had a problem with it. I cut almost every day and my cutter is original, Same cutting strip and all. The cuts are great, precise and accurate. The Graphtecs are very well built. The tracking is GREAT. The Graphtecs have more features than the Titans. The only Titan coming close to a Graphtec is the 28" Titan 3, Which is about $500 less, and it has less features than a Graphtec. Titan 1 is a stepper, with no contour cutting and the Titan 2 is a servo with manual contour cutting. but we have seen many of the Titans needing new boards in about a year or 2. You don't see Graphtecs doing that. The Titans have not been out in the field that long like the Graphtecs. Graphtecs are built with great precision and quality, They also cut more detailed designs better. I own 2 Graphtec FC vinyl cutters and would buy another. Because Graphtecs are so great, they hold their resale value also. I also purchased 2 Graphtec CE5000-60 for my kids, also no problems with them. Graphtecs also provide more options in software. For a PC or a Mac, and you can't beat the Graphtec Pro Studio for Windows, Over a $1000 software. Pretty close to FlexisignPro. FREE. If you do need tech support, Graphtec tech support is great also.
  5. 3 points
    Graphtec is worth the wait. You won't be sorry.
  6. 3 points
    titan3 would be the next step up but if you wait and save just about 300 more you can get the graphtec ce6000-60 - top notch then and comes with free graphtec pro studio software which is private branded flexi pro that you would spend $2000 for just that software without a cutter . . . . IMHO
  7. 3 points
    Yes, Dakota, that is how the 'Drop Shadow' function in Vm works. As far as not having the 2 layers over top of one another; Ungroup the 2 layers (grouped by Default when Created with the Drop Shadow Module) And Punch them out. (Not sure if the Cut Version has all these Features.
  8. 3 points
    The old timers here, are here to help. We do not know every program out there. we use what we use. Combined, we do know every program for design and cutting. In my opinion, grab a beer and click on help is a fantastic idea. There is more in that click than you can get waiting for help from the forum. In my humble opinion.
  9. 2 points
    i like the concept of not overlapping when I do 2+ colors, but in reality, my eyes and hands simply aren't steady enough for a level of accuracy if the color is supposed to touch one another, especially on a graphic as long as yours. I would guarantee have negative space or in inadvertent overlapping someplace along that graphic. good luck with that, and take a pic when you're done so we can see it installed.
  10. 2 points
    Jenna Sue (Regular) Find my font best $50 you will ever spend
  11. 2 points
    Angie I saw that machine on CL and wondered if they got it sold. I am the mod mentioned and actually here in your area and run a newer Summa. That machine is pretty old but as long as it's been taken care of should be a good option especially at what you paid for it. I recommend trying out the free Signblazer if you're on a super tight budget and don't already have design skills. I run a mac and so use SignCut Pro in combination with Adobe Illustrator but both of those are paid programs.
  12. 2 points
    Call Support? Now why would I want to do a thing like that? Nooooo! That's entirely too easy. I would much rather crack a beer, have a seat, and bother the REAL people! Just wanted to update anyone following. I managed to get this rig running, finally. And I gotta tell ya... It helps so much TO INSTALL THE CORRECT CUTTER! That entire time... I had SC2 selected, NOT the Titan 2. After making the correct choice, the bells & whistles came alive. It was a Hallmark moment. No kidding. If any of you could have seen my behavior, prior to choosing wisely, you'd have grabbed popcorn & a fountain drink. Yeah... it was sad. Anyway... After a few test cuts, I noticed that the offset was too low (rounded, incomplete cuts). Of course, I headed straight for the calibration thingy. That's where I'm stuck now. That's where you fine peoples come in. I got to the part where the design shows up on the sign blank. Pretty sure it's a grid, with #'s & letters. Well, I hit CUT IT NOW. It starts cutting... then stops... and just sits there. Your thoughts?
  13. 2 points
    You should be peeling the wax paper backing off the decal. it makes a huge difference. Lay decal tape down, peel the backing off. No mention which vinyl or tape you are using,
  14. 2 points
    I refer you back to post 5 in this thread from sunday . . . .
  15. 2 points
    No problems with a desktop with 8 cores and 64gb ram either
  16. 2 points
    First things first --- identify those fonts (2 different ones). Do not ever vectorize text. Horrible results. Ask them for a higher-resolution copy, maybe if you're lucky get an .eps version!!!
  17. 1 point
    I have the Summa D60 that I run with Flexisign. I have had the Summa for at least 10 years and have had only one problem. That was a power supply that went bad. it was probably my fault because I use to leave the power on for long periods of time. I did find a replacement power supply and it's been running great ever since. I have no experience with other programs but can imagine the cutter will run fine with something different and windows 10. That being said the Summa is a great vinyl cutter, they track very well and can cut very detailed designs. The title of this thread is D60 but in the original post you mention a T140. These are two different cutters. the t140 being tangential which is even better than the D60's drag knife design. Dakota gave you links to the Summa site for manuals and drivers. I hope this helps a little. you've got a great cutter.
  18. 1 point
    Someone who uses SCALP will have to tell you how to set your design up to cut. I always used Flexi software with my Seiki. Never did like SCALP software. Just from looking at your design, you cut a square and triangle up in the right hand corner. That moves the word THE over to the left. Do some test cuts with the test feature on the vinyl cutter and get your blade depth correct.
  19. 1 point
    I run a Graphtec and I have never seen a reason to cut fast. Not sure what 200 equates to on "your" cutter. I always cut slow, I am usually cutting while answering questions on here.
  20. 1 point
    Okay this is Bryce today I fixed the issue with the contour cutting. I called U.S cutter support and they had me calibrate the page size that wasn’t it. They then told me to adjust the tension on the pinch rollers that wasn’t it. So I am hoping to help someone else having this issue. What the cutter was doing is the cut line would drift about a mm each time it contour cut an image by the time it reached to the far left of the job it was 5mm off and cutting into the image. The solution was to slow the cutter down to 78 mm second on the cutting speed. It now contour cuts big jobs perfectly. I did all of the following things before I figured this out. I uninstalled and reinstalled Vinyl Master. I recalibrated so many times i could draw the test pages three tech calls with U.S cutter multiple unanswered emails to Future Corp purchased Vinyl Master XPT. Replaced the usb cable purchased the com cable and adapter. Tried loading the vinyl all ways possible. Wasted hundreds of dollars in media. I was going to order the Hp Cutter Monday. I want to mention I was only cutting at around 200 speed so not cranked up. Hope this helps someone else.
  21. 1 point
    I also had problems with it crashing with large files on my laptop but it's been smooth sailing on this i7 Desktop with 16 gigs of ram.
  22. 1 point
    every professional I know uses paper tape - lots of hobbyist use clear. anyone that has tried applying clear to something like a larger back window with a compound curve know that clear will not conform to the curves like paper will
  23. 1 point
    Just because paper tape doesn't look professional, it doesn't mean that it is not the right choice for the job. . I have always used paper tape. Most professional people do.
  24. 1 point
    I figure if we don't know what software is being used - while waiting on the answer we might as well work on the correct terminology -I think cricut started the incorrect use of die cutting - and like the 1/2 credit card trick is wrong and just won't die.
  25. 1 point
    did not work. but gave me an idea. i added nodes in inkscape before i exported it to vinylmaster. that did the trick. vinylmaster is very sensitive to little nodes obviously