My first T-Shirt - Silkscreened with the help of my vinyl cutter

[routesmith 0]

Just want to thank everyone one that discussed when to silkscreen and when to cut the transfer.

Beardown for his informative and inspiring video on silkscreening using my cut stencil instead of an emulsion..

yes you will see I ran out of ink on my black because I didnt slap enough down, but I am SUPER happy with the result. You will also see that I used the wrong colors for my beetle (yellow ink on a white shirt bad idea).

Im also happy to say that using Beardowns methods that no chemicals were used in the making of this transfer (besides the ink, although Im not sure if it is a chemical or not)

For anyone insterested it was dirt cheap to start up:

My awesome Laserpoint 24"

scrap vinyl $.05

18" embroidery hoop $2

2 yards of chiffon tulle from walmart $4 (Ill have to get the SKU if someone wants it, I already threw out the SKU)

starterpack of Speedball ink from ACMoore $19 (red, yellow, white, black, blue, green)

squeegy (pepboys, (also used for apply vinyl(well Ill buy a new one now))$.50)

coupon for 25% off at ACMOORE afterwards

tshirt from my drawer $0

my creativity for my logo $priceless 

*OPTIONAL*

4 t-shirts from ACMOORE 50/50 for $10 any color

I have ink all over my hands somehow...

My question to Beardown or any other silkscreeners is how the HECK to you align different colors WITHOUT a proper press..?

Wayne

Thanks for your time and now back to your regularly scheduled program.....

[FatDad 2]

:)  That my friend is what im talking about!!!!

Id love to find out more about this process.  Ive seen Bears video, did you find the rest of teh info on here or somewhere else?

[rebjr 0]

My question to Beardown or any other silkscreeners is how the HECK to you align different colors WITHOUT a proper press..?

It can be done. But, seriously you have to weigh the cost of your time to attempt such a venture. I built my own presses, modified stuff to fit my needs, and I wouldn't attempt doing it without a press. You can buy presses dirt cheap on eBay if you watch and don't get discouraged at losing bids. Dryers are another thing, harder to find at a good price, unless you have plenty of space (big dryers sell cheap).

Don't buy anything without getting advice from somebody you trust. Keep your eyes peeled for ANTEC they are awesome presses. They make a line called Dynamic that is entry level, priced low new and would be a good choice if you are looking for new.Dick Blick handles the dynamic. I'm not sure that the micro is worth the $600 extra, and the cap attachment definately isn't worth the cost. IMHO.

http://www.dickblick.com/zz430/02/

I know a guy in Evansville, IN who buys and resells used equipment, pieces to full shops. He runs a print/embroidery shop and does the buy/sell on the side. He and his Dad also build some presses using old Richardson parts that are workhorses. I can't recall his email, but anybody looking for stuff (he ships/delivers), or have anything to sell, give him a buzz 1-812-422-4303. His name is Jay.

Bob

[routesmith 0]

Well I found the rest of it on you tube.

I put the whole process up in the instructional area.

Here:

http://forum.uscutter.com/index.php/topic,7111.0.html

Hope it helps

Wayne

[routesmith 0]

My question to Beardown or any other silkscreeners is how the HECK to you align different colors WITHOUT a proper press..?

It can be done. But, seriously you have to weigh the cost of your time to attempt such a venture. I built my own presses, modified stuff to fit my needs, and I wouldn't attempt doing it without a press. You can buy presses dirt cheap on eBay if you watch and don't get discouraged at losing bids. Dryers are another thing, harder to find at a good price, unless you have plenty of space (big dryers sell cheap).

Don't buy anything without getting advice from somebody you trust. Keep your eyes peeled for ANTEC they are awesome presses. They make a line called Dynamic that is entry level, priced low new and would be a good choice if you are looking for new.Dick Blick handles the dynamic. I'm not sure that the micro is worth the $600 extra, and the cap attachment definately isn't worth the cost. IMHO.

http://www.dickblick.com/zz430/02/

I know a guy in Evansville, IN who buys and resells used equipment, pieces to full shops. He runs a print/embroidery shop and does the buy/sell on the side. He and his Dad also build some presses using old Richardson parts that are workhorses. I can't recall his email, but anybody looking for stuff (he ships/delivers), or have anything to sell, give him a buzz 1-812-422-4303. His name is Jay.

Bob

For me its a labor of love....

it cost $25 to do the whole thing and an hour of time (not including loitering in the craftstore for 2 hrs trying to find something else cool... I stopped in the chocolate isle for a little too long)

thanks for the ideas on the press, it is a good idea, I will have to look into this.

WAyne

[JoeCamaro 11]

How did you cure the ink?

i used a heat gun when I had nothing else to try.

JC

[routesmith 0]

Yeah I used a hair dryer then I wanted to speed things up a bit so I used a piece of paper and an iron..

Of course I left the iron on too long and now there is a beetle Image burned into my table...

My wife is not too happy with this part of my hobby anymore

Wayne

[rebjr 0]

I assume that if you used a hair dryer or a iron that you used water based ink. Use plastisols and you can eliminate the drying in the screen, allow you to print on darks, and the list goes on.

Joe's use of a heat gun works very good for both water based and plastisol. The forced air of the gun along with the heat will cure your waterbase in a "flash" with excellent curing. You can also use it to cure plastisol for a single color, or flash it in between colors for multicolor. Loads of printers buy the big, bulky, heavy, commercial guns offered by screenprint supply houses. They run about a hunnert bucks. You can do the same thing with the paint stripping heat guns that you buy at any building supply store for $20-30.00.

You can test your cure on plastisol by stretching a test product. If it cracks it's either under or over cured which will result in the image washing out in short order. For water base scratch the printed surface with your fingernail, if it dulls or fades then you need to adjust your technique. Don't get the gun  too close to the shirt, you will burn the ink and/or the shirt very fast.

[routesmith 0]

Correct REB,

Of course I didnt really know what I was doing.. do you think thats the reason my purple shirt didnt turn out so good is because I was using the regular tshirt ink??

I still dont know much about plastisol, Ill have to read up on it.. I want to be able print on black and the like.

I think there is a place downtown, IM gonna pick up some plastisol and try it, I guess the curing process is hit or miss eh? there is no time or anything...

thanks

Wayne

[routesmith 0]

oh, and do you think it is necessary for the hair dryer AND the iron or will just the dryer be good enough?

Wayne

[routesmith 0]

I assume that if you used a hair dryer or a iron that you used water based ink. Use plastisols and you can eliminate the drying in the screen, allow you to print on darks, and the list goes on.

Joe's use of a heat gun works very good for both water based and plastisol. The forced air of the gun along with the heat will cure your waterbase in a "flash" with excellent curing. You can also use it to cure plastisol for a single color, or flash it in between colors for multicolor. Loads of printers buy the big, bulky, heavy, commercial guns offered by screenprint supply houses. They run about a hunnert bucks. You can do the same thing with the paint stripping heat guns that you buy at any building supply store for $20-30.00.

You can test your cure on plastisol by stretching a test product. If it cracks it's either under or over cured which will result in the image washing out in short order. For water base scratch the printed surface with your fingernail, if it dulls or fades then you need to adjust your technique. Don't get the gun  too close to the shirt, you will burn the ink and/or the shirt very fast.

REB,

"Joe's use of a heat gun works very good for both water based and plastisol. The forced air of the gun along with the heat will cure your waterbase in a "flash" with excellent curing. You can also use it to cure plastisol for a single color, or flash it in between colors for multicolor."

Does this mean that I dont HAVE to have a press to do plastisol?

thanks

Wayne

[routesmith 0]

by press I meant heat press...

Wayne

[JoeCamaro 11]

You can dry it with a heat gun only and it will work, but when you press a screenprinted shirts it gives it a soft and nice feel, it gets really smooth.

[routesmith 0]

I see, thanks Joe!

Wayne

[kmerting 0]

Hey, can anyone clarify something for me.  I screen print shirts often, but I avoid dark colored fabrics because I'm using normal water based textile inks.  I've looked into plastisol but was told that I needed a "dryer" for it.  When I tried to find more about the dryer, I was under the assumption that it was some sort of heat lamp or UV type lamp that dried it.  Some called it a flash dryer.  Can I actually use a heat gun to dry plastisol?  I'd like to do some multi color dark shirts.  I can "flash" dry it between colors with the heat gun?  Then would it be good to put it in my heat press after all colors were printed?  I see someone wrote that the plastisol can be cured too little or too much.  Is this something that I would just have to experiment with? 

Thanks, Ken

[veddderman123 0]

Hey, can anyone clarify something for me.  I screen print shirts often, but I avoid dark colored fabrics because I'm using normal water based textile inks.  I've looked into plastisol but was told that I needed a "dryer" for it.  When I tried to find more about the dryer, I was under the assumption that it was some sort of heat lamp or UV type lamp that dried it.  Some called it a flash dryer.  Can I actually use a heat gun to dry plastisol?  I'd like to do some multi color dark shirts.  I can "flash" dry it between colors with the heat gun?  Then would it be good to put it in my heat press after all colors were printed?  I see someone wrote that the plastisol can be cured too little or too much.  Is this something that I would just have to experiment with? 

Thanks, Ken

Yes, You can use a heat gun to dry plastisol.  It can take some time depending on how large the design is.  I think it like 320 degrees for about 30-45 seconds for a good cure.  Have you ever heard of the "stretch test"?  How it works is you stretch the ink on the shirt.  If the ink cracks its not cured good enough.  If it stretches with the shirt then it's cured.  I hope that makes sence and helps.

[kmerting 0]

Thanks, I understand what you mean by stretch test....  One thing.. If my colors don't overlap, I can do my multiple colors (printing wet) and then take the shirt and dry it with the heat press instead?  Or is heat press no good?  I would think I would use the gun when I had colors overlap..  Am I on the right track?  Thanks again!  Ken

[veddderman123 0]

I'm not sure exactly because I've never used a heat press... 

I have a small screen printing operation I run out of the garage, I use a flash dryer now but when I first started a few years back I only used the heat gun.  That all being said I know the heat gun will do the job.  For the press I say give it a shot and see if it works.  Trial and error is the best test.  If the press works it can save you time.

[kmerting 0]

Will do.. Thanks for the advice.... Ken

[lowone 3]

Looks really good. I tried doing one myself but I used the wrong ink. I'm going to try again. I was also inspired by bears vid. I'll post the process I used when I'm successful.

[duke 12]

where can i buy plastisol ink and a rubber squeegie for screening ?

can i find them without buying on line, like michaels etc;?

regards duke

[Beardown 0]

Well, Well, Well, !! Awsome Job my friend !! Glad to see it being done.!!

I myself have just bought a conveyor  dryer myself and I am selling my Flash dyer if anyone is intrested? and the press itself ...maybe I should post in the for sale section !

Kudos !!! Looks great !!!

Question for you .....I get messages and emails all the time saying that the vinyl will not hold up for multi shirt runs ...what is your opinon on that.(my opinon is that once it is on it isnt going anywhere) By experience....

How would you align the different screens ...I have holders on mine.

But I would imagine that you could make some for yourself ...get creative !!! Washers and bolts could work !!!

Great job again !!!

Down

[veddderman123 0]

Question for you .....I get messages and emails all the time saying that the vinyl will not hold up for multi shirt runs ...what is your opinon on that.(

Mine started to rub off around shirt 11, but next time I do it I think I'm going to reverse the image and put the vinyl on the bottom of the screen (the side that touches the shirt).  We'll see if that works any better.