Boroughprint 0 Posted February 2, 2022 Hi, Im new here and fairly new to vinyl cutting. My ce6000 is working well except for the fact the almost always on the upper left hand side of a cut, it cuts the graphic slightly short. Cutting printed laminated vinyl. Especially noticeable for round graphics. I am doing quality 1, cutting force of 14. I am confident the blade is set correctly and I have tried fresh blades. 45 degree blade. I'm pulling my hair out trying to figure out what is going on here. Using the most recent version cutting master plugin in illustrator on a Mac. Here is a picture of what is happening it may be hard to see but above the crown you see the cut move up a little bit. Its small but noticeable as I am placing these labels in a pre drilled area that is perfectly round. THANKS! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MZ SKEETER 4,714 Posted February 2, 2022 Are you cutting that design all the way thru the wax paper backing? Where are you located? Different Graphtec cutters, different areas. Tell us how you set your blade depth, Too many incorrect instructions out there. Are you using a cutting mat under your vinyl? Have you tried a 60 degree blade? Many on here cut all vinyl with a 60 degree blade. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Boroughprint 0 Posted February 2, 2022 Im in NY, USA. Blade depth is about half a credit card depth, I did the vinyl cut test I saw described here at one point where I'm just using the blade in the holder and it seemed pretty good, cut through lamination and vinyl without cutting the backing paper. Not using a cutting mat, adhesive vinyl on backing paper. I did try a 60 degree blade but it was old and worn. I bought a new one and ill try that next. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MZ SKEETER 4,714 Posted February 2, 2022 Your blade should not be sticking out of the holder, more than the thickness of the vinyl and the lamination. It is less blade, more force. Was checking to see if you were cutting all the way thru, because if you have a Graphtec America cutter and no cutting mat, you would be cutting/ and damaging the teflon cutting strip. Graphtec Europe Has a channel in front and a dual placement blade holder slot, so cutting all the way thru the vinyl is not a problem. Make sure you are not pulling on the vinyl while cutting. like a vinyl roll, always have enough vinyl slack. You need a sharp blade to cut thru the lamination. Run the cutter slow. no need to race. I only run my cutter slow. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Boroughprint 0 Posted February 2, 2022 ive been running tests 5cm to 30cm. I can't even tell a difference in speed. There is plenty of slack smallish sheets of vinyl just laying there. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MZ SKEETER 4,714 Posted February 2, 2022 Did you ever calibrate your software to your cutter? Example, cut a 4" x 4" square and it measures exactly 4" x 4"? 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Boroughprint 0 Posted February 3, 2022 hhmmmm no I did not, honestly I haven't seen anything about that. I did the ARMS test and that was accurate. Do you have a link with any information how to do that? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MZ SKEETER 4,714 Posted February 3, 2022 I don't know about Cutting Master, I use Flexi software. MIne is in Resolution. There are so many steps in an inch, even though it is a servo. Like I said, make a square, measure it exact.. You may or may not need to change it. All cutters need to be calibrated to the software. There are 1016 steps to an inch in my Flexi software. Mine is in Default job properties. If I would change this number higher, my square would not be a correct size anymore. It would be larger. My software is set up to a Graphtec FC model 30" Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dakotagrafx 7,298 Posted February 3, 2022 20 hours ago, Boroughprint said: Hi, Im new here and fairly new to vinyl cutting. My ce6000 is working well except for the fact the almost always on the upper left hand side of a cut, it cuts the graphic slightly short. Cutting printed laminated vinyl. Especially noticeable for round graphics. I am doing quality 1, cutting force of 14. I am confident the blade is set correctly and I have tried fresh blades. 45 degree blade. I'm pulling my hair out trying to figure out what is going on here. Using the most recent version cutting master plugin in illustrator on a Mac. Here is a picture of what is happening it may be hard to see but above the crown you see the cut move up a little bit. Its small but noticeable as I am placing these labels in a pre drilled area that is perfectly round. THANKS! 19 hours ago, Boroughprint said: Im in NY, USA. Blade depth is about half a credit card depth, I did the vinyl cut test I saw described here at one point where I'm just using the blade in the holder and it seemed pretty good, cut through lamination and vinyl without cutting the backing paper. Not using a cutting mat, adhesive vinyl on backing paper. I did try a 60 degree blade but it was old and worn. I bought a new one and ill try that next. that one myth has caused more problems over the years and it still lingers on - - - skeeter has the proper way and hopefully has you on track. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Boroughprint 0 Posted February 4, 2022 Thanks for all the help, I'm going to try this stuff this weekend and report back. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Boroughprint 0 Posted February 5, 2022 Ok still having the same problem but it is slightly improved.I changed to a fresh 60 blade, and saw an old post from MZ with proper blade depth. I changed the Step pass to 1016 and that did make the top smooth but it still juts in slightly in the top left quarter. here are pictures of my settings I tried step path at 256 and 1016 and 1016 was definitely smoother but still showed the issue Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MZ SKEETER 4,714 Posted February 5, 2022 1016 is a number for MY software and my cutter to be calibrated, After I cut and measured a square. Did you design and cut a square of 4" x 4" and it measured correctly?. 4" x 4"?. I am only using 4" as an example, so you don't waste a bunch of vinyl. It could be 6" x 6" square design and measured. That is what you are to do. for Your cutter and your software. It could be or it could not be the same number of steps. You must cut and measure the square. Then adjust the steps to get a correct measurement. Then cut and measure again and again until the size is correct. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Boroughprint 0 Posted February 5, 2022 aha sorry I misunderstood that, ill try it out Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Boroughprint 0 Posted February 6, 2022 OK! I have figured out the issue, not a fix yet but... I did the test you mentioned @MZ SKEETER 1016 is correct for my cutter, thank you for helping me understand that and my cutter better. The problem is the entire carriage has a slight amount of give, when I secured it with my thumb lightly while printing very slowly, the problem went away. I took off the carriage cover and the upper cover and made sure all the screws are tight. They are. the give seems to originate at the bottom where the guide rollers touch the rail, nothing seems loose though and I'm a bit perplexed again. Im going to do more research on this but I feel a little less insane now. Any tips on how to secure the carriage more would be helpful if anyone has it. Thanks! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Boroughprint 0 Posted February 6, 2022 Fixed! For anyone that finds this later. I had to loosen the screws that hold the cutter to the guide at the top push the whole carriage up and retighten. Thanks for all your help Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pawdell 15 Posted February 6, 2022 I am gathering that 1016 per inch (40mm) is more like a default number, but I understand some Roland engravers use 2540 per inch (100mm) units as I am sure other machines would also. I have built CNC tables and understand calibrating, but never calibrated my Graphtec CE 6000-60. I ensure my graphics software outputs accurately to real-world dimensions and I tell the post processor to send GPGL code in default units to a printer (the 6000) and automagically the code sends 4064 to move 4 inches. One reason I can think of to allow fine adjustments is to allow for a graphics program that are designed more for graphics where accuracy isn't easily obtainable. Mechanical wear (not loose) might be another. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MZ SKEETER 4,714 Posted February 6, 2022 Some people find that their value cutters are not cutting the same size, that they think they are sending to their cutters.. Old Signblazer and other soft wares have that also. Size correction. Several Graphtec users with CE5000 and CE6000 still use Signblazer with their Graphtecs. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Boroughprint 0 Posted February 6, 2022 For what its worth, in cutting master changing the step size did not effect the overall size of the cut. But I tried another software and it did, 1016 gave me an accurate cut size Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MZ SKEETER 4,714 Posted February 6, 2022 Why don't you have blade/knife offset checked in your cutting software? It should be ZERO for a Graphtec., Or am I missing it somewhere? On Your cutter screen, you also have STEP SIZE. It depends on whether you are changing thru the cutter or the program. That is in your menu. I make changes thru my program, NOT the cutter. That is in my background settings. It looks like yours is in INTERFACE. Read your user manual. You will also want to put INITIAL BLADE POSITION>OUTSIDE. or it will make a little J in your design. I run my cutter on Program. But I run on a PC with HP-GL COMMAND Share this post Link to post Share on other sites