GraphxNMore 282 Posted September 18, 2016 On license plates. The stainless look plates are great, but the white ones have this blotchy look everywhere the paper touches it. You can also see EXACTLY where the tape was applied. (I use tape, because every type of spray glue I use leaves a pink color on my finished products) Keychains come out beautiful. I noticed the stainless plates are thicker than the white ones, theoretically creating more pressure, but would that help? Seems like just the opposite. This is so aggravating. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dakotagrafx 7,297 Posted September 19, 2016 first are you removing the protective plastic layer over the plate (don't ask why I would ask such a thing!), too much time can cause as much problems as too little. I find if I don't use the right paper I have more problems - with my sawgrass ricoh set up it is the texprint-r that I like . . . . and lastly where you get the blanks is just as important as some suppliers don't get the even coating as needed for a top notch print 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
GraphxNMore 282 Posted September 19, 2016 Yeah, I removed the plastic protector. I believe it's product quality, like you say. It's a blotchy looking haze. I never had it on other plates, then Conde sent these thin plates and it seemed like that's when my trouble started. As far as paper.......travel mugs, coffee cups, keychains and other plates are fine. Time to place a call to Ted. LOL 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
GraphxNMore 282 Posted September 19, 2016 One other thing, the red on the plate doesn't near match the red on the keychains.... used the same file, just copied, pasted and resized. Gonna shorten my press time on the plate and see what happens. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ravenwind / One Off Grafx 187 Posted September 19, 2016 my plates i run 370 for 50 sec med pressure and the plate on top of the paper face down. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
GraphxNMore 282 Posted September 20, 2016 385°, 50 seconds, just a little more pressure than just the weight of the platen. Came out perfect. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
GraphxNMore 282 Posted September 20, 2016 On another note, I was always told if took 390° to 400° for sublimation. My new mug press had me ready to throw it out the window. I'd hit the start button and nothing would appear to happen. After a few moments, the timer would start to tick down. That seemed ok, I'd just wait until it started to count down then stuck my mug in and close. What freaked me out is the temp would drop to 310° quickly and never would recover but to around 350°. I let the first one stay in until the temp was back to set temp and left for about 85 seconds longer. They scorcher badly. I finally did it according to instructions and guess what..... Perfection. What blew my mind was travel mugs. 320° set, 230° idle, 45 seconds. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites