Which machine for cutting Clear Cut 7B?

[cjchasse 1]

I am looking for advice on buying a cutting machine. I currently make wood signs using purchased stencils but would like to branch off into making my own stencils and selling them. I don't want to have to use a carrier sheet, I would like to use this kraft paper backed material from www.breninc.com:

 

Clear-Cut 7B^™

Slightly more durable than 5B, this 7-mil clear (Mylar® type) polyester material comes on a heavy kraft backing with BR3 adhesive.  After cutting, Clear-Cut 7B™ is easily-released and removes adhesive-free, making a long-lasting, durable and cleanable stencil.  Clear-Cut 7B™ will remove without curl and remain flat for as long as you keep the stencil.  Comes on a 6" core. It says you need 450 g of downforce.

 

Does anyone have any advice? I have previously bought 2 cutters and both were just giant paperweights. The first was a KNKut and the 2nd was a Silver Bullet. Neither has been consistent or done well with small detailed lettering (down to 1/4" and intriquite flourishes. They just tour letters like "M" and "W", cut all the way through in some spots and not others. I would get the setting perfect, cut a perfect stencil, change nothing and the next stencil would be junk.

 

So this is my last ditch (very reluctant) try at another cutter. Otherwise, I am saving for a laser cutter.

 

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

[Wildgoose 4,200]

You are going to have to spend a decent amount of money to get a cutter that will consistently cut 1/4" lettering from 7 mil mylar. Mylar is tough (hence the use as stencil material). I think you might be better off going the Rayzist direction. It will do really small stuff better than a cutter and I think is probably cheaper in the long run. I don't have all the components to utilize this stuff but have considered it. If I was making more money with that part of my business (blasting) then I would be doing this.

 

http://www.rayzist.com

[cjchasse 1]

My error, the smallest lettering would be about 1/2". I had never heard of rayzist, I will definitely check it out.

 

I called USCutter's sales department and was told the cheap Titan 15" for $349 would work....that's why I am here, I highly doubt that is going to work.

 

Thank you!

[mb20music 760]

I called USCutter's sales department and was told the cheap Titan 15" for $349 would work.

 

According to the specs of this machine it shows it has up to 510 grams of pressure, so it "should" work I would think. 

 

Most of the lower end, cheap cutters have a max of around 250 - 300 grams, which is why the two "paperweight" cutters you purchased wouldn't work.

[cjchasse 1]

Actually the Silver Bullet says it has 1250 grams of force. But the accuracy bites. I have asked for help repeatedly and finally got a snotty answer that it is me, not the machine, I don't have time to adjust the blade between every stencil when I am trying to runa a business and if that is what I am going to have to do no matter how much I spend on a cutter, I'll go with a laser.

[Dakotagrafx 7,297]

seen the trotec laer at a show - sweet machines!  if you are willing to spend that money I would go that way

[cjchasse 1]

I really do want a laser machine and have for a few years! They are just expensive. I have been selling painted wood signs for 5 years and it is a ton of work, cuttting the wood, sanding, painting, etc. (I am a female and not getting any younger) which is why I want to gravitate to stencils. I thought I could start with a cutter and if the business did well then I would buy a laser cutter.

[Dakotagrafx 7,297]

Most of us can't justify a $26,000 laser to cut stensils - I think the bigger titan2 has like a 800g downforce too but have no experience with the mylar

[cjchasse 1]

Yeah, I'd need to sell a ton of stencils to justify it....

 

Two of the companies I buy stencils from use cutters and 2 use lasers. But of course NONE of them will give me any advice as they don't want any more competition. But the two who use cutters are doing well and have been in business for a long time so obviously they have found a cutter that works on mylar.

[MZ SKEETER 4,709]

Have you ever tried making 2 passes cutting instead of just the 1?

[cjchasse 1]

Yes, I have tried 2 passes, even 3. I just don't understand why I can't get a few perfect stencils and then a mess. Is the mylar dulling the blade that quickly?

[cjchasse 1]

I meant to say I CAN get a few perfect stencils and then a mess.

[Dakotagrafx 7,297]

betting it is hard on blades - have you tried the cleancut blades?

[cjchasse 1]

Right now I still have the Silver Bullet and use they blades they sell with it, they recommended the 45 degree, but I also tried their 60. Who makes cleancut? Do they sell them on USCutter?

[Jburns 239]

Cjchasse,

 

You mention you don't have time to adjust the blade between stencils- so with that kind of daily thorough put a laser would probably make sense.

 

Do you think an Epilog would cut the stencils? I have seen them from 9K- to 12K here in Colorado.  But I wonder- how do you keep the little dots on the "i"s from falling thru.

 

Or if you are sticking with a cutter- then a Titan 2, or FC Graphtec with large blade ( CB15U-K30- for .05mm to 1.5mm sandblast material) 600 grams downforce - and Tangential mode should give you a better result. 

[Jburns 239]

Actually- the people that use the cutters may be using a FLATBED cutter. That would make sense for that material.

[cjchasse 1]

Jburns:

 

I have to bridge letter like o's, a's, etc. the keep the centers from falling out.

 

I agree I would probably be better off with a laser but I'm afraid of spending that much money right now...not knowing if the business will take off.

 

I have been looking at the Titan 2 and Titan 3. The small regular Titan was recommended but it has a stepper motor. Does a servo motor vs. a stepper make a difference with smaller detail? (Sorry, I can run a chainsaw, chopsaw, stumpgrinder....but don't ask me to how the motors work LOL).

 

Carla

[cjchasse 1]

The flatbed cutters...that never even occurred to me that they could be using one of those.

[MZ SKEETER 4,709]

Yes the servo motors make a huge difference on accuracy...  They run smooth

[Jburns 239]

yes- you would notice a large difference with a servo motor for details.  

 

But with thick material, you may want the blade to start and stop- go up then back down into the material before changing direction- this is called tangential control or emulation.

 

If you try to make a sharp turn on a small letter, and you blade is out far enough to go thru thick material, it probably wont cut properly.- Think about the side of the blade being hit by the stencil as it tries to turn.

[MZ SKEETER 4,709]

If you go thru this thread,  you will see many detailed designs cut with a Graphtec.  They have servo motors.    I even cut 1/4" chrome with my Graphtec FC

 

http://forum.uscutter.com/index.php?/topic/42357-lease-vs-purchase/page-4

[cjchasse 1]

That makes sense. I don't think the Silver Bullet has that option. I am really leaning toward buying the Titan 2 or 3.

[cjchasse 1]

Wow, Skeeter - if I tried to cut letters as small as the "walking tall" example, they would be a mess, especially the corners of the w's. Anything with a point gets pulled up.

[Dakotagrafx 7,297]

Wow, Skeeter - if I tried to cut letters as small as the "walking tall" example, they would be a mess, especially the corners of the w's. Anything with a point gets pulled up.

usually caused by a poorly set up machine or too small for the stepper motors. we usually find if someone with that problem on a servo machine they are using way too much blade, dull blade or need to clean and lube the blade holder

[cjchasse 1]

I have tried adjusting my blade over and over. I have tried new blades over and over because everyone's answer in the Silver Bullet forum is that it is a dull blade. I have no idea if the Silver Bullet has a servo or stepper, it doesn't say in the specs.

 

I was never told I needed to lube the blade holder, just blow it out.