Ok - Time to Burst my bubble

[Vermonster 111]

So, getting into printing I willfully admit - I know nothing about it (as of right now)

 

My Brother in Law was over tonight.  He does Horse Pulling here in Vermont, NY, and NH competitively.  Long story short, he and his wife had a really rough year last year (Wife got run over, and drug and had to be airlifted; he got his foot crushed in the Tunbridge World's Fair).  So they were telling us they were gearing up to start pulling and worked their horses a little this morning.

 

I got the idea that it would be sort of a cool "Welcome Back" gift to make them some shirts with the name of their Team/Farm  (BS stands for what you think it does - they have my sense of humor)  

 

Anyway, since I need to learn this printing thing, I tossed this together in like 20 minutes, so I'm not so worried about the layout - I'll work on it later, but wasn't sure if this would print ok for a garment (Ink Jet with DuraBrite Ink on 3G paper).

 

If you wanna tinker with the layout - be my guest but I didn't want to get into the 7th level of hell designing it only to find out it would never print.  Colors aren't final, I just tossed them in there when I was cleaning a few things up in the vecor Rlvied hooked me up with earlier (Thanks again).  We have to find some shirts so I'm not exactly sure what the colors will be (depending on the shirts we pick up).  

 

I guess my question would something printed similar to this work or is this completely wrong from a printing perspective?  I did this in Corel X6 so is that pretty sufficient to do layouts for printing with my WF7010?

 

There's no rush and we wanted to give these to them as a gift (Sort of like when Buttermaker gave the Bad News Bears their uniforms before their first game).

 

Rich v2.eps

[Vermonster 111]

Side Note - I know nothing about printing settings so if there's any ideas there, please let me know

[mark-s 1,126]

Always convert fonts to curves so anyone can work the design.

Why seperate black outines to black ?

Don`t understand when people design this way.

mark-s

[Vermonster 111]

As I mentioned, I had a few minutes into putting something together and grabbed the design from some stock sign frames I had.  Was more concerned about what I needed to do to print correctly.  Converting fonts to curves suggestion makes sense though - though, can't you select them and convert them right in Corel?  (Select and hit CTRL Q)

[mark-s 1,126]

Arrange -convert to curves.

 

mark-s

[Vermonster 111]

or you can hit CTRL Q ..

[Wildgoose 4,200]

I do a little printed stuff with transfers. For printing, most of the old standby rules go out the window as far as lines curves stoked paths etc... BUT if you think you may ever want to cut a vinyl version for a horse trailer etc then you better go ahead and build it cut ready and you'll thank yourself the day after they get the t-shirts and tell you they love it and want it elsewhere. 

 

For straight printing with transfers you can get away with about anything. Some colors don't come through like they look on screen and I find myself playing with reds and greens to get them to print more like I want them to do. I will print a series of filled boxes with colors and their cmyk numbers beside them so I can determine what way to go about coloring to achieve the look. If you are just using a photo or something you downloaded that is a raster image then you can only fix things so far unless you have a decent photo editor and some skills. Illustrator has a bunch of options in the print dialog that allow you to change the color balances prior to printing, I am sure that Corel has something similar. Follow your transfer instructions for ink saturation. Most of them say NOT to oversaturate but to just print normal. I usually print at least one test print on regular paper to be sure the colors look ok and to be sure there aren't any streaks from clogged heads. The colors will change when you heat them a little too so you'll have to learn when they are going to darken too much etc... through experience.

[OWJones 1,981]

When printing from Corel, click on the Color tab in the Print dialog and set the "Correct colors using color profile" to something appropriate for your printer and inks.  Although I use the color profiles from Cobra Ink for all of my dye-sub printing, I often times find that I get colors that better match what I see on screen if I use the "Epson IJ Printer 07" setting when printing to my pigment ink printers.

 

Once you pick a color profile, you can click the Print Preview button at the bottom of the dialog to get a fairly accurate representation of how it should look when printed with that profile.  That way you can pick and choose a profile without wasting transfer sheets testing them out.

 

On a lot of jobs I can't visually distinguish a difference between Cobra's profiles and the Epson ones, but on other jobs there is a drastic difference - I haven't been able to put my finger on why some jobs are so different, but I'm sure someone on here knows why and can clue us in.

 

When printing onto a transfer for dark shirts, such as 3G Opaque or Jet Opaque II, then print it just the way it looks on screen.  If you're printing transfers for whites (or very lights) and using a transparent transfer like Jet Pro Soft Stretch, then you'll want to make sure to mirror your image when you print (in the Corel Print dialog, click on the Prepress tab and check Mirror) because you'll need to flip that over when you transfer it.