PixelPusher

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Everything posted by PixelPusher

  1. PixelPusher

    Flexi driver for Copam CP2500 vs DGI OM60

    I just tried to contour cut with the driver you suggested, the Copam 2500 (not USCutter) and it cut, but froze and the end and though the cutter is still fully powered up and the LCD screen says CUTTING it's frozen and won't finish the cut. I will try the other variation again (USCutter) and see if it freezes as I expect it to. Update: Yup, both USCutter Copam 2500 and the Copam 2500 (not USCutter) froze and hung up. They did start to work though. The NOT USCutter version worked better (got further along) than the USCutter version... So far the DGI OM60 driver is the only one working.
  2. Thank you for your reply Wildgoose. No, I haven't actually tried to download and use a week trial with them yet but I'm definitely going to when I get some more time to play around with things. I do like the ability to rent their software in "increments" but if I was to buy it would be a dongle edition...I want to own something physical. I'm interested in their version 2 of the software and since it's in beta, I might try a 1.96.4 trial and then, if possible, try the 2.0 when released. I do have some extremely good news though in the fact that I was "just" able to use a friend's copy of Flexisign Pro 8.6V2 for some contour cutting trials with the Copam. I have outlined this in this thread: http://forum.uscutter.com/index.php?/topic/51137-flexi-driver-for-copam-cp2500-vs-dgi-om60/ with more information and a video tutorial on how to use Flexi 10 and setup contour cutting. Anyhow, the part that I was most happy about is that the Copam actually responded and the carriage head MOVED in microstep movements. I didn't actually get far enough along in my trials to print something out but that's my next steps. The calibration settings WORKED though and the rest is trivial I think! I'm so happy, you have no idea... What a long back and forth saga this has turned out to be...but ya, I have to eat my words in post #22 and say that manual contour cutting is definitely possible with the Copam CP-2500 and Mz Skeeter was correct from the get go, buy, use FlexiStarter or Pro. I have posted a help support ticket in SignGo's support forum on manual contour cutting with the Copam, but I'm not too sure if I'll be able to get it to work. If not, I'm selling the software and I'm buying FlexiStarter. Enough messing around...
  3. PixelPusher

    Flexi driver for Copam CP2500 vs DGI OM60

    Hi Mz Skeeter, thank you very muchfor your reply. I will see what I can do and try your suggestions in a few minutes here. FYI, I have "just" finished trying a simulated manual contour cut with the Copam CP-2500 and a friend's copy of FlexiSign 8.6V2 Pro on my Windows 7 laptop with some success!!! I followed this SAI video tutorial for guidance on the procedure. I am currently using the DGI OM-60 driver for the Copam cutter. When I get more time, I will try your suggestions above. Anyhow, though I didn't actually print anything out, I went through the procedure to draw out some text, put a contour cutline on the outside of my text and then put on some registration marks too, I cancelled the print part but was able to actually do some cutting (in my case, I would be plotting but without a pen - nothing was actually being done but cutter carriage movement was occuring). I got it sent properly to the Production Manager and was successfully able to calibrate the cutter in micro-step movements! The cutter carriage was actually MOVING!!! This is a BIG step up from what I was experiencing with SignGo Pro 1.20. It actually responded and WORKED! My next trials will be to put in my pen and draw some simple text with a contour cut line attached and see if I can then manually line things up and from there it's actually using a printed paper copy. So, you were right all along! The Copam CAN INDEED manually contour cut, but so far anyhow, only using FlexiSign. If I can successfully get my trials to go at a satisfactory level for me, I'm selling SignGo and going to buy FlexiStarter, enough messing around. I don't actually design in Flexi (since I don't really know how to use it yet) but I know I can send my designs from Coreldraw X7 to FlexiStarter to cut using EPS files and from there, I'm in business! I'm so excited LOL!
  4. PixelPusher

    Was given a cutter by can't tell what brand

    You are correct in thinking your cutter is a 36" model. The other two options are 24" and 48" models. I am not sure what the difference is between the CT and A models are however. Here are drivers and user guides off of Creation's website: http://www.creation.com.hk/eng/support.asp which should help. It's a shame that Signwarehouse.com is charging you $200 to get assistance with your cutter, I'll file that in my brain somewhere as a company to avoid like the plague. Also, SignGo from http://www.signgo.com has a 30 day unencumbered trial you can download and try out. It's not the easiest software to use I've found however unforunately. But if you go this route, I may be able to help you. SignGo has their own forum too to get support on and they will reply and assist you.
  5. Ya, after spending hours trying to get SignGo to contour cut with the Copam, I give up...the calibration controls for the program to communicate with the cutter won't even move. It should be moving the cutter head but instead nothing happens, period. Similar to what this person was dealing with: http://forum.uscutter.com/index.php?/topic/45157-contour-cutting-with-copam-cp-2500-and-signcut/ Again, for the record, I stand by what I said originally about the cutter not being able to contour cut. If it is indeed software related, then it's some kind of setting that needs a rocket scientist to figure out. And since no one offers decent cutting software with decent evaluation periods (I'm looking at you Flexisign) (except SignGo's 30 day evealutation - which doesn't seem to work properly for me) then I'd say good luck finding if it will contour cut manually with your cutter because it's not easy...at least with Copams anyhow. Look, if my wasted time (HOURS, if not days) is anything to go by, don't bother with any cutter than doesn't have ARMS - that's automatic recognition of registration marks for contour cutting. If/when it comes time to contour cut, you'll wish you had spent the extra cash right off the bat to get a proper cutter. I sure do!!!
  6. The good news these days is that SignGo is slowly releasing video tutorials on their new YouTube channel. https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCpHBJFSGNEgb_sFlV8ow6wA I am going to follow these two on print/contour cutting http://www.signgo.com/cgi-bin/yabb2/YaBB.pl?num=1242828363 and see if I can get my Copam to contour cut manually. Here is a link to their support forum too that has tutorials and tips and tricks. http://www.signgo.com/cgi-bin/yabb2/YaBB.pl?board=tut
  7. I'm trying to get into this myself and you may be able to do it (I'm still researching a proper combination of printer/ink and size though) for less than you can imagine http://sorentec.ca/shop/index.php?route=product/product&path=20_64&product_id=60 That's just one vendor I found and the web is full of them. I don't personally know anyone who uses a small format desktop printer to digitally print using Eco-Solvent inks (this is the ink you need to use on vinyl or else it smears all over and won't cure right) but I know they're out there doing it. Probably several on this forum too. Oh and there is Aliexpress.com and finding a vendor that sells a Chinese large format printer for several thousand dollars cheaper than the big boy Roland and Mutoh Valuejet or Epson Eco-Solvent printers and/or cutters. The bad thing about going on there and buying Chinese is no one locally maintains them and has spare parts should something break. But you could buy 3 printers for the cost of one Roland...But then you also need RIP software that will work with that printer too. It gets crazy expensive quick... Cheap but good quality (weird combination) self healing mats can be bought from Aliexpress.com http://www.aliexpress.com/wholesale?catId=0&initiative_id=SB_20160218131844&SearchText=cutting+mat in A3 or A4 format and sometimes larger for inexpensive prices (Under $20 US). I've bought several products from Aliexpress over the years and if you can wait the 24-30 days for shipping (often shipping is free) then you're golden. Just go with a vendor that has LOTS of positive feedback and lots of transactions. They're selling on there as their regular job and not someone shifty. Also, if your girlfriend likes papercrafting or scrapbooking they have inexpensive carrier sheets to allow paper to be cut on a vinyl cutter. They are adhesive and reusable. You can then use something like Krylon's Easy-Tack to refurbish them when the stickyness goes away from usage. Also, though you're not asking for this...cheap but decent aluminum large format rulers (meter stick) can be bought from Walmart in their tools section for $6.27 CAD They come in super handy doing long trim jobs. http://www.walmart.ca/en/ip/40-meter-stick/6000108188144
  8. PixelPusher

    Corel or Adobe

    Interesting...but you can use them at home then to practice. It's unfortunate that they won't support the open source stuff. It's not dangerous and in fact they release patches faster than Adobe ever has. And if you have ever heard of Adobe Flash Player or Acrobat (who hasn't) and all the vulnerabilities and exploits, Adobe doesn't exactly scream safe to me... But I get what you're saying. When I worked for a municipal government I couldn't use them either even though I could have saved my team lots of time and effort and cost. Same with Open Office or Libre Office. They had to fork out thousands of dollars every year in maintenance contracts because they were a Microsoft shop. Now they hate Windows 10 Enterprise and are finally looking into Open Source! LOL! Round and round we go...
  9. PixelPusher

    Corel or Adobe

    Inkscape is free and open source by the way if you want to get really up to speed on vector illustrating for no cost (you can use it on low powered systems too). http://www.inkscape.org Udemy has a great intro course (and plenty of other courses) on Inkscape https://www.udemy.com/learn-to-use-inkscape/ and if you go down the free and open source route, don't stop there...try 3D too and for that you should learn Blender 3D from http://blender.org or Sketchup from http://sketchup.com for that (Sketchup Pro is a paid for application though they do have a free version). That can open a whole new can of worms though into 3D printing or really awesome proofing...which is where I'm personally starting to pay attention to using 3D. Showing a customer a 2D proof vs a 3D proof gets them to buy every time especially if you're doing a huge job for lots of dollars. I also learned to use the defunct (Adobe bought and crushed Macromedia) Macromedia Freehand and it's much easier to use than Illustrator was even though they have the same pen drawing styles.
  10. I like it. Good job! If I can suggest adding a portable large format rotary trimmer for coroplast cutting and/or sticker cutting (not contour cutting but simple rectangle cutting should you one day get into digital printing) then it would be complete. The only thing I'd be cautious of is your application tape holder and a heavy roll of vinyl sliding off and breaking the glass closest to the tape applicator. I like the work you put into this though Oh and if you don't want scratches on the glass when trimming or cutting manually, you can use a large self healing cutting mat which can then be removed when you wanted light (or simple cardboard pieces).
  11. PixelPusher

    Corel or Adobe

    You're very welcome. My reply is based on my career experience and thousands of dollars of learning from colleges and universities (and two degrees). Learning from Lynda will save you thousands of dollars and hours of your life, but you don't get a certificate or diploma. Your portfolio, resume and website will serve that purpose. Oh and I stopped trying to learn Illustrator after Adobe Creative Suite 6 (the last one I bought). After that they went to Creative Cloud so you may be right in assuming you can't get standalone versions of CC. I seem to think you can but I haven't tried in a while. I know Adobe still had trial downloads that can be converted into fully registered versions with a serial number and activation linked to your account once you pay for them. Here's an old thread on this: https://forums.adobe.com/thread/1271363?start=0&tstart=0 and specifically http://prodesigntools.com/adobe-cc-direct-download-links.html and http://prodesigntools.com/adobe-cc-2015-direct-download-links.html for 2015 direct links to their trials. Those are not pirate links either, they are Adobe's own links to their trial versions on their servers (which can be bought outright).
  12. PixelPusher

    Corel or Adobe

    I've learned on and used Coreldraw since version 4 (now on 17 and soon to be 18 in March). I have tried many times to learn and use Illustrator. I simply hate Illustrator. It's incredibly powerful though but quite cumbersome and complex to learn if you've learned another system. I wish I learned on Illustrator before Coreldraw but now I'm spoiled one way and can't seem to get the hang of the other - and I've put in a lot of work on it via video instruction through Lynda.com and Deke McClelland's pro level instruction videos http://www.deke.com/ (they're all available through Lynda.com) If you wish to learn Illustrator, go to Lynda.com and sign up for a month and go absolutely nuts on the Illustrator courses. Lynda has some Coreldraw courses too but they haven't had much updated love since version X4. If you want to learn Coreldraw then you'll want to buy Coreldraw Unleashed from http://www.coreldrawunleashed.com It's amazing and even I've learned many, many new and useful things after all these years from the videos. 80% of the sign industry places I've worked for in my lifetime prefer Coreldraw (Because it's cheap) but the print industry uses Illustrator (because it plays nicely with Photoshop and InDesign for print). Photoshop and Indesign and Illustrator are industry standards. You won't get many jobs without exposure to all three and if you can learn those first and THEN learn Coreldraw, you'll be a Rockstar... Trust me...those are the two fastest and pro-level methods to go from 0-100 MPH as a competent designer that I know of. Now a days with both Corel and Adobe pushing subscription methods, you can easily and cheaply learn BOTH. Illustrator has vastly superior color modeling and 3D capabilities. Coreldraw for ease of use and quickly designing (as well as being the Swiss Army knife of interchangeable file formats). Oh and if you're even more curious, there is something called Coreldraw Technical Suite and it blows away anything Illustrator or plain Coreldraw but it's not cheap and there is no decent instruction that I can find on its 3D technical abilities. If there was, I'd never try to use Illustrator again. You can still buy Coreldraw or Illustrator in stand alone product editions for the latest versions. They do have a cloud component to unlock certain features though. Though Download editions are cheaper, buy Boxed DVD versions - always. You physically have the disc and the extras (often clip art and fonts). Cloud editions of both tools greatly reduce piracy...that's their sole purpose. Oh and Coreldraw can use almost all the same plugins that Illustrator or Photoshop can plus they have something called Macros which will blow your mind when you go explore their power ( http://www.macromonster.com )
  13. Look what I found on contour cutting via SignGo Pro...I'll have to try this on the Copam as soon as I can. They do offer a fully functional 30 day trial version too fyi. Though I have a retail dongle edition. http://signgo.com/index.php/products/feature-tour/20-contour-cutting
  14. PixelPusher

    new spam tactic

    Doesn't hurt to change your password either...just saying. If they can harvest emails in profiles they can probably harvest passwords, especially if they're just stored in MD5 format (or worse - plain text) in a database as they often are using PHP/MySQL based forum websites like this. http://www.zdnet.com/article/md5-password-scrambler-no-longer-safe/ (article from back in 2012 after 6.46 million LinkedIn passwords in simple MD5 algorithm were hacked. Oh and MD5 has been broken since 2004).
  15. PixelPusher

    BALL POINT MINI KNIFE

    Combining it all into this type of level pen of course. THEN we're talking... I like the hexagon shape so it doesn't easily roll off your "whatever".
  16. PixelPusher

    new spam tactic

    I learned that word from reading Russian sign websites through Google Translate.
  17. PixelPusher

    new spam tactic

    I got three too. Same spammer. All Russified.
  18. I've been getting conflicting information on the Copam, but I believe you Mz Skeeter and it's based on your feedback alone that gives me hope but I've found elsewhere (and in the Copam subforum on here) information that says it can't do it. I looked at the ad you've listed too and it definitely does say Copam CP will work with Flexi Starter 10 but I can't find anyone anywhere that has a Copam that has it working. There are no videos or anecdotal text proving this. I've also found a video on YouTube saying any cutter can do it manually but it's just software related - which makes sense to me. I am of the belief that it should be software related just as you mention, but I haven't been able to find 100% proof yet. It's driving me batty trying to figure it out. It seems no one on here these days, that's active, has a Copam but myself or at least bothers to post for I'd really like to bounce ideas back and forth. And I haven't been able to contour cut on it myself of course. Granted I don't have Flexistarter 8.6v2 or 10 (a $217 CAD test investment if I buy the listing you posted on eBay), 11 or 12 to try or I would without doubt. I came across some information that SignCut Productivity Pro 1.95 wouldn't work at all with the on-screen micro adjustment keys and the Copam but I haven't tried 1.96 or 2 beta. If the software wasn't so darn expensive and so critical to getting any cutter to work properly, then I'd gladly ditch my SignGo Pro FD 1.20. I'll have to go on a trial spree one day after I image my computer and find out one way or another... I do appreciate your reply and input though. Trust me, I listen to you.
  19. If you're only ever going to do vinyl cutting and nothing but vinyl cutting then yes, you don't need ARMS (sandblast stencils, templates for positioning 3D cut plastic or metal letters for reception signs or even non intensive designed t-shirts (using heat transfer vinyl) don't need ARMS capability). But you also don't need servo motors either, just saying...The moment you decide to do anything digitally printed (which is a natural progression in this business), you'll want ARMS and the Titan 2 doesn't have it - period. Oh and you don't need to spend $12-20K on a large format Eco-solvent printer to START with if you want to do digital printing on vinyl. You can use relatively inexpensive desktop sized printers to print with Eco-solvent inks to do this, read here: http://sorentec.ca/shop/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=60 as an example to peak your interest. The web has plenty of other examples too. You just need the right printer, printhead, eco-solvent ink and substrate combination. You'll also need some type of lamination (liquid, cold or hot laminate) to protect prints from the elements and scratches if used outdoors but that's another ball of wax too you'll run into. Now you may be able to manually align and contour cut using the Titan 2 (Using SignCut Productivity Pro or Flexisign 8.5 Pro (or higher) but like I said, not every non-ARMS vinyl cutter can do this contour cutting manually. Mine can't. There is a USCutter Laserpoint cutter that doesn't have ARMS but does have a simple laserpointer and it's several hundred dollars cheaper than the Titan2 or 3 that can do contour cutting, but it's a time intensive manual alignment process that needs repeating for EVERY decal you contour cut. There is an upgraded version of my Copam that also has a laserpointer too for that matter that can assist in contour cutting...I didn't realize this right off the start. Looking back, I would have bought the Copam with the laserpointer back then had I known. So I offered my advice based on my own experiences and if I could do it all over again with the same budget, I would get a contour cutting capable cutter and to have it automated with ARMS is now the much preferred route. I'm limited with what I can do now for clients with the equipment I have and soon enough, you will be too. Not many of my clients want pure vinyl cut graphics (businesses often want privacy etch vinyl cut for glass though). Most want digitally printed graphics and quite often contour cut depending on their application (especially vehicle graphics). You only have a limited budget to start with so try and think ahead to maximize your dollar and avoid pitfalls. As your experience (and business) grows you'll find out you'll probably outgrow your original equipment anyhow. So why start off that way right off the bat?
  20. PixelPusher

    Ink drips

    I also agree with dakotagrafx, look at and clean your encoder strip and clean everything you can physically touch. It may be time to contact your vendor and get a proper service on the Mutoh and then ask them to show you how to properly clean the printer. If you have a good service tech, they'll show you. FYI, a pro-tip: 99% pure rubbing alcohol (must be high % and not diluted with water) and VERY light rubbing can assist (or can destroy if you're not careful) getting non-cured ink off of substrates, crayons off walls, ink off carpet etc. It's magic! You may need to ask a pharmacist for this stuff since druggies use this for creating their drugs too apparently. If they ask you why, tell them it's to remove ink overspray on signs. It definitely works getting overspray off of painted wood doing large format flatbed printing on wood even after being cured by UV light (but still fresh - don't let it sit over night or it won't work). It will work on a large format flatbed printer's vacuum belt too if you soak it with alcohol and use plastic cling-wrap to seal it and prevent it from drying out and then after about 10-15 minutes, use heavy duty packing tape to blot off the ink chunks - major PITA but it does work. It will dry VERY quickly too. It's also good to reduce static on Coroplast and can be used to remove dirt, a handfy 2 in 1 benefit. Just put it in a spray bottle and use with disposable shop cloths. If you get it quick enough, you may be able to get it off vinyl. I haven't tried to remove overspray off of vinyl or ink drips but do it daily on wood. If you can try it on vinyl, then give it a shot. Otherwise, you may be able to print off large red printed "bandaids" or strips of vinyl to put over top of the errant ink dots. laid 30 feet up you may not notice it too much and offering the customer a 10% discount may save you more stress and cost redoing it over and over again until you get the printer serviced.
  21. I'd personally go with neither of the two as you've listed. The Titan 2 does not have ARMS cutting which is CONTOUR CUTTING of shaped DIGITALLY PRINTED graphics on to vinyl substrate (this is a big deal if you should want to get into digital printing). The size at 28" is really nice...you always want the biggest cutter you can afford. Minimum 24" and as big as they go so you don't have to manually cut rolls of vinyl to fit your cutter (this requires a saw and a vacuum to clean up the debris - though you can easily get 24" rolls of already cut vinyl you can save money by buying the larger rolls and trimming them down to fit your cutter). The small cutter is good for Scrapbookers and Papercrafters but that's seriously about it...the time you waste getting it to cut larger material tiled out is better spent elsewhere. The small 15" cutter is incredibly limiting if you get traction with your business. You WANT ARMS capability - trust me. I have a very capable and pro line of cutter called the Copam CP 2500 (24") and the only things it doesn't have are servo motors (it has steppers, not a big deal but servos are MUCH quieter) and the fact that it can't do contour cutting of printed graphics on vinyl. That's the ARMS thingy you're overlooking which is way bigger than servo motors. It's huge. I haven't been able to get my Copam to MANUALLY contour cut either (using trial and error and careful manual alignment) but that tends to be a cutting software limiting factor and possibly the fact that the firmware of my cutter may not actually be able to do micro-stepping movements. My cutter otherwise is perfect for my needs. It doesn't have vacuum hold down capability of substrates but that isn't that big of a deal. It's nice to have, but not required. It aids in tracking over longer distances...that's pretty much it. But if you are careful in substrate loading in the first place, the vacuum suction isn't required. If I could upgrade to a 24" Titan 3 I would simply for the ARMS capability. My Suggestion: The Titan 3 is where you want to spend your money but at a minimum of 24". So save your money and get a bigger size cutter than 15". Go collect bottles if you have to but you'll be glad you did...don't scrimp now or you'll be mad at yourself in the near future. The money you make off larger size jobs will allow you recoup the cost of your initial investment way faster.
  22. PixelPusher

    usb / serial problems

    Usually is right, unless it's a Copam CP-2500 (which we've discerned yours is not) then it's a straight through serial cable (I found out that the hard way). I also use a Tripp Lite USA-19HS Keyspan Serial to USB Adapter. It's the best kind you can get. Very reliable chipset inside. I'd recommend one if you can afford to buy another adapter if this one gives you too much grief. I had to use Tripp Lite's specific drivers though for it to work, does your serial adapter use drivers? Most likely, so you need to find out the model of the adapter to be able to obtain the correct drivers. If it can not be found, you're not going to have much success using it.
  23. PixelPusher

    usb / serial problems

    Is there a way you can take more straight on photos of the cutter? It's almost impossible to identify it from those small pictures and from the angle taken. I would also ask you to take a much higher resolution pictures (BIGGER). The bigger the better (they have a file size limit but if you can make the images 1024x768'ish they will work fine). When you post a reply on these forums, look for the MORE REPLY OPTIONS button and at the bottom of the editor (beside POST) and then you can attach better quality images. You can even modify the original post you made for this thread by using the USE FULL EDITOR button when Editing your posts. Personally, I think it looks very much like a generic Chinese cutter like this: http://www.made-in-china.com/showroom/asc365-brianna/product-detailHMjmpXzTCoYF/China-24-Vinyl-Cutting-Plotter.html Note, same pure black color, same silver control panel on the cutter, same yellow sticker placement in the bottom right corner, same two silver screws on section immediately to the right of the control panel (some photos I've seen have different looking control panels however). If my image is correct then it is possibly a JK721 model cutter possibly by a company called Ria or Jinka http://www.riaelectronics.net/cutting-plotters.html Actually Ria might be a distributor, this link has lots of pictures, do they match your cutter? http://www.usahawan.com/shop/cutting-plotter-jinka-jk721 If those pictures match then it is a Jinka JK series cutter... http://www.jinka-indonesia.com/ Which has USB Drivers on the page under the left hand side DOWNLOADS area. And depending on the size it could have one of these alternative model numbers: Model Item JK721 JK871 JK1101 JK1351 and corresponding Max.paper width 720mm 870mm 1100mm 1350mm Max.plotting width 630mm 780mm 1000mm 1260mm In fact, it looks a lot like the second picture (both are JK series cutters). The first picture is also a JK series cutter but has a different control panel layout. ria-cutting-plotters-jk-721.pdf
  24. PixelPusher

    BALL POINT MINI KNIFE

    I like your thinking You could extend this idea towards a vinyl air release tool (to poke fine holes in vinyl that has air trapped from a bad application) using a pin. Go look at the 3M ones - they are insanely expensive. Like $60+ But I haven't come up with a better pin adapter (part that accepts the pin into the pen to keep it snug enough) than the pin through a pencil eraser end trimmed to fit the spent ink tube. I suppose a hot glue gun would work too...hmmm. I was able to find an Aliexpress seller though who basically sells these types of pin pens for $8.95 US shipped. Mine just arrived in Canada. This is a screen capture from their ad. Opening it up and looking at what they've done, it's simply an empty pen cartridge with a "professionally" manufactured metal nib that contains a pin head. You could easily make something like this yourself but I chose to buy it for I didn't have to get covered in ink. You can even buy the empty pen/pin head refills on Aliexpress too should you damage the pin head. It's good quality and comes in a nice black cardboard box. I think it's worth the purchase. I've attached a picture of what I received taken apart to show it's simplicity - just like a normal pen but with a pin head on the ink cartridge.
  25. Whoops, you're right, I screwed up the orientation of the photo...it has now been fixed on the thread and is correct. Sorry about that.