randalle

How many different rolls have you had this issue with?

I only use Siser Ez Weed and get it at Coastal. http://www.coastalbusiness.com/standard-heat-transfer-vinyl.aspx

That's awesome! I haven't done any etched stuff yet but I'd like to try it out.

Looks great!!

No, never tried that. lol, I'm deep enough into CM3 now that if i did, if you can, it'd just confuse me. If you make a few cuts, say give CM3 a morning or afternoon of getting used to it you'll be completely at home with it.

There was window film in that video? Where??

Honestly, I tried CM3 one time and never switched back (to whatever I used to use). I have used CM3 for over a year now with zero problems. It's too easy to quickly change blade pressure, speed, and flip X / Y. A handy trick... If you highlight something in you image, like say the SDST letters and then go hit 'send to cm3'... it will send only the highlighted path(s). Super cool. You may not use that while you get used to CM3, but remember I told you about it. Eventually, You will. And you'll love it! (this is so you don't send the full image to the CM3 and then have to go sort out which colors you want it to cut)

Congrats! I use graphtec's cutting master 3 software with mine. Do you use Illustrator? If so, there is a plugin for Illy that spits jobs straight out to CM3 that is pretty friggin fantastic.

Trying to figure out what the "Roll Coal" font is. please and thank you!

Must have that lamp! Love it! I have a T-square, and that lamp would give me back a minute per shirt (or so). It would pay for itself quick enough.

Thank you!!

I did a dumptruck yesterday with chrome I bought from USC and it worked like a champ. (creative films prime)

You'll get it. Just make sure you have a big squeegee of some variety and go slow. My biggest problem is getting too geeked out when I do something new and rush through it. Coro is cheap make a few practice ones and you'll have it down. Slow and steady wins the race.

here is a video that I watched to figure out my process - Note: You do not need the big squeegee pictured here. If you have one, or have the money to buy it... fine. If not, you can make one with a board and some velcro. (the soft part not the scratchy part)

I have never done coro wet. I don't think I would even consider it for letters. Now if I were doing a giant square or something solid like that,,, I might be tempted. here is how I do it and I have excellent results: 1. position my graphic on the sign right where I want it. 2. I fold the backing paper down 1" along one of the edges exposing the transfer tape (opposite of the direction of the fluting so that I can squeegee with the fluting) 2a. at this point your transfer tape should be holding your vinyl in place on the coro via that 1" edge you just made. 3. I put my big squeegee on the end that I rolled the tape back on and slowly push down the vinyl transfering it onto the coro. 3a. I reach around the side for the first couple of inches that I'm pushing the squeegee and make sure that the backing paper is sliding off (out) properly. Once it goes a few inches, I center myself on the squeegee and push to the end. Most important thing I can think of with this approach is to have something at the other end of your coro to keep it from sliding away while you squeegee it on. I have had very, very good results with this method. edit: I use 4075 RLA paper tape for coro applications. And didn't know about the dryer sheet trick, so I haven't tried that yet.

lol, there you go! I've only done single color backlit signs. : ) Now I will know to bid those double color ones higher!

I send everyone that asks me for them to vistaprint.

Object - Path - Offset Path

grab a cup of coffee, or 4, and read the 'fair use' article on wikipedia. Good food for thought. and to answer your question, the way I explain it to my customers is the company owns the trademark and it's likeness. So, changing the trademarked image around isn't fooling anyone. It's still a blatant rip off, even "the border is different!" or whatever. In your case, regarding making yourself a monster logo... if you have read that fair use article... you will have the answer. : )

I always overlay. I'm sure there is a valid reason not too in some specific scenario.... but I haven't ran across it yet. My OCD would destroy me if i left any form of a gap from trying to 'punch'.

I get jpss by the roll from Coastal. Great company, fast shipping. http://www.coastalbusiness.com/jetprosofstretchinkjettransferpaperroll-13x100roll.aspx

Super close to Portcullion Bold.

Awesome!

Gravity is your friend! lol, seriously though give it a shot. I hated layering on a flat surface, backlit or not. I felt like I had more "surprises" when working on the flat surface. On the other end of the spectrum, working on a window didn't have as many surprises (sections of vinyl that don't cooperate)... but the straight vertical approach was just too harsh and gravity would in fact get me from time to time. With the 45 degree setup, You get the best of both worlds IMHO.

and here is my coveted $2 big squeegee. : )