randalle

I am 90% set on picking up that roll of HT55..... But in the interest of having many uses per roll, has anyone tried AT 75? Thanks to all for your comments!!

Thanks, I'll order some up! Same paint on both walls. Only difference is the room temp.

I am doing some 10' x 5' signs. Logo, which is purple (on top). Lettering below it, which is black. This is going on white polycarb, backlit. I had initially planned on going with 751. Now I'm wondering if I want to use translucent for that extra % of pop. I feel like the black letters won't gain much pop from going with trans, will they? I've done black trans on backlit before and didn't feel like it make that much of a difference. Seems to me that black 751 on white / backlit would automatically have plenty of pop. opinions?

Wanted to make some printed graphics that could be put on walls, and removed. like a fathead deal, for my kids rooms. Is there such a vinyl? Or should I just print it with my Epson WF1100 on Sihl 3988 and apply that to some 631... then contour cut that? Lotta work, but I guess it would get the job done, wouldn't it?

NICE!! Thanks

I've done a couple thousand shirts with Siser. Won't use anything else (but have tried and hated most other brands).

I buy it from Coastal. I also do not buy it in sheets, I buy it in rolls (17" x 100')... and like that much better.

I've also found that every design generally has a better weed approach. One design, may work best pulling from the bottom right... while a different design weeds easier from a completely different location and direction. Practice. I've weeded thousands of designs and still... each one is a new challenge to figure out which 'way' is the cleanest / best / fastest. This is obviously much more important on detailed designs. and I agree with WildGoose... sometimes the bandaid method is surprisingly effective.

^ that guy... Never ceases to amaze me.

Yes and no. I paid like $45 for the t square it tool from Coastal. I don't have nor feel like I need the logo tool. On the T square tool. I don't use the piece that runs vertical. ever. I lay my shirt out flat and take the horizontal ruler and lay across the top of the shirt about 3" below the bottom of the collar. Then i center it based on the stitching on the sleeves - this tool makes super quick work of this. Then I line up my HTV with the center mark on that ruler and check it for level. With a little practice you can nail 'level' about 90% of the time without having to lift and adjust. This process makes my workflow quick and yields excellent results. The most important part of my t-square ruler is that it is "0" in the middle and goes out to 11" in each direction. So say, lining up an XL t-shirt, I just make sure that each side of my ruler is at 11.25" to the sleeves from center. If you are on a super tight budget, you could just make one out of anything that would do the same job for next to nothing. I found that the full t-square was a bit cumbersome overall.

A couple jobs I have recently done. 751 on max metal. 2'x2'. Did this logo for the customer and they liked it so much we are doing shirts for them now too. PolyChrome by creative films (courtesy of USCutter.com) on 751. I really like working with this, however if you have an orange peel paint job.... you got an orange peel decal job. : /

grimco or ebay for parking signs

This thread made me $. THANK YOU mac6986

Yes I do. I only cut the top, not all the way through. And if the design is more complex than a square (guillotine paper cutter) - it gets contour cut. I use 4075 RLA as my 'mask' with these products. It is perfectly suited for it and works great with each different type of paper / application.

I've done them with regular Siser Ez weed. No problems.

Love it!! I'd like to build a light box like that... got any plans / adivse / design tips on getting that done?

1. Gildan Ultra. 6.x oz shirts. Comparable to Hanes Beefy-T. Both are fantastic. I alway use Gildan unless I can't get them, then I default to the beefy t's. 2. Gildan Heavy. 5.x oz shirts. Cheeper, but barely. I have had a few 'it shrunk' reports... so I only sell these if my customer understands and accepts the risk. 3. I avoid FOTL and Anvil like the plague. I have a new shirt I lay on my work table with "WELL" used shirts laying on top of it to show shrinkage. The measurements I took last week for a customer showed that the Heavy shirt shrank an inch in length and the Ultra shirt shrank 1/2" in length. I am comfortable with up to 1/2" of shrink over the abusive life I put a shirt through.

Here is my homemade layering station. 1" pvc is super cheap. I bought a bunch of it, including T's and elbows when I was working on my own tape stand / roller - which I have now disassembled and re-used all of that for other purposes. I built a $2 big squeegee out of a piece of trim with felt on the edge and that has replaced all of my app tape roller needs. --- I have <$10 in pvc in this rig. The lights are around $9 at the big box stores. For bulbs, I put the Natural Daylight CFL bulbs in them rated at 23w / 1600 lumens. So, say another $15 - but I have these bulbs all over my office. You can't beat a 23w / 1600 lumen natural daylight bulb. I have them in my weeding lamp and they are spectacular for the $. Lastly, and this is the gotcha.... I have a 1/4" sheet of plexi for the top working surface (24" x 36"). This chunk is spendy. You'll need to shop around and find a deal on something like it. Retail on a piece like that can get spendy, fast. I'd check your local glass shops and beg for some scratch'n dents. I DO NOT recommend anything thinner. This plexi is thick enough to take pressure. It will bow when I really push on it, but it is more than sturdy enough to do the job. Here is the side view: Here is the front view: I taped plain white paper to the back side of the plexi to act as a diffuser. You can't stare into those bulbs for long! I use blue painters tape for any vinyl project that requires tape. Just a preference of mine. It sticks well, and comes off super easy too. In the front view, the 'star' inside the mouth of the skull is actually a piece of vinyl that is stuck on the plexi. This gives you an idea of how well you can see through to your bottom layers. I very much like the work angle of this rig. It's about 45 degrees. In a pinch, I have used a window before (a lot actually)... but the angle of this just crushes the window in ease of use and predictability. Excluding the plexi, I have < $50 in this setup and it is a game changer for me and layering vinyl. I shopped for a real light table for months and couldn't drop that kind of $$$ so I actually built a light table out of scraps from the shop, but eventually tossed it and built this setup as that 45 degree angle is so sweet to layer with. edit: The pvc isn't glued together at all. I just tamped it together and threw it on the table. I won't glue it because I can reconfigure it if needed. The plexi is not attached at all. The two elbows on the front act as a stop for it. Been using this for 2-3 years and never had the glass come off unless I wanted it to, so no reason to attach it. In fact, 90% of the time I'm not using this, I have it broken down and stuck somewhere out of the way.

I started with a horizontal box with lights under it and just got tired of it. I prefer the more vertical approach. It just flows well for me when putting on layers. Reg marks or no, the first time you layer on top of a light... you'll be VERY happy. Use a diffuser though, I just used regular white paper. Easier on the eyes.

Simple, clean, effective. Plugs right in to your forum / user base... Perfect. Who are you hosting with?

Finished this up this evening. 751 on max metal. I did not do the sillouhette figures, those were pre-existing. I did the rest.

Microsoft tried to get cute with Win8. Win8 is a phone / tablet OS that is being forced on the desktop world and it has been a well deserved flop. MS hedged their bets that they could get more future users by having a consistent OS experience across phone, tablet, and desktop. Win 7 was FANTASTIC!!!. I'll give them a mulligan on this one... I'm anxious to see what they do with Win9. (they totally botch every other OS anyway) Vista ring a bell? Millenium Edition? I highly recommend this site if you don't have a touch screen capable Win8 machine: http://www.classicshell.net/

lol... Is there any other way to learn a lesson? (not for me!)

Very cool!