Moody Blue

lol yeah just wait and get the right stuff. Definately going to want the air release on this so you can play with it a little. Plus the conformity is greater with the Avery SW900 or 3M 1080...just be aware that 3M has been having alot of quality control issues so I would recommend the Avery. Plus you can get some knife-less tape too while you are at it. Nobody wants to have to cut on paint haha.

Can be done if you heat and stretch but dont "overstretch" the vinyl. If it gets to a point where it wont conform anymore or starts to tear you can cut it out and seam in a new piece to fit within the step. There is enough contours in that area to nicely hide the seams so it wont be noticeable. I did a few prerunner trucks with large contoured fiberglass fenders and just worked slowly and used heat to mold the vinyl and post heat when you are done to help "set" the vinyl. Also 3M Primer 94 will help in the round parts of the step where the stretched vinyl will lay. To be honest I would run knife-less tape to seam across the rocker line (great place to hide a horizontal seam) that way you can work the vinyl into the crevice first without affecting the rest of the fender and then continue with the top and rear once the step is finished.

Yes but that is assuming that he uses Corel. Im an Adobe user and had to find a contact on here to convert cdr files for me too.

Lets go cruise the strip at Myrtle Beach SHOTGUN!!

need the graphics on or need a graphic of the car?

Do they make a masking attachment for it too? Might as well do it all if you can afford the machine.

If you are looking for low tac vinyl I would suggest the Avery SW900 or 3M 1080. Both have a "temporary" adhesive for doing car wraps. Its a good bit thicker than your regular vinyl and much easier to remove being that it wont leave residue and for the most part should peel in large sheets as opposed to tearing like regular vinyl. You can cut it with just about any plotter with a little more cut pressure than your Oracal 751 or 951 which is also great for vehicle graphics. If using like a paint mask check out some of the actual paint mask vinyl. It is even less tacky than the wrap vinyl so you wont want to use that for decals that will stay like like you can any of the others types.

One must wonder if the account was created for the sole purpose of that one post?? Not sure if that is the case...but I wouldn't put it passed some people these days. In this digital age, the world is full of internet badasses

http://www.brandsoftheworld.com/logo/rubicon Remember this is a REGISTERED logo so be careful about how it is used...as in personal use only or you might find yourself in a situation. As dcbevins said: Add a stroke and expand to make the red and black separate objects. Create registration marks to line the two colors up and tape the black to apply on top the red.

The Di-Noc is mostly made for flat surfaces or more for a cutting application as where the 1080 is a wrap film that will work better with the contours of a vehicle. HOWEVER be weary 3M has had ALOT of quality control issues on their 1080 wrap films lately...not sure if that translates back to the Carbon Fiber 1080 or even the Di-Noc but just be aware of that when you purchase.

Yes it promotes adhesion in places where the vinyl may be "over stretched". Probably don't need it for this. I use for wraps when im under the rail on boats and in really tight spots on vehicles that will require lots of "finesse"

Oh yeah good point Dakota...wrap vinyl should always be applied dry if it has the air release. Still will work the same way with heat though.

I always "evaporate" the liquid with my heat gun. Takes about 10 minutes or so once the decal is already down but once its dry should stay down.

Metrorestyling.com has lots of options for carbon fiber. glossy...matte...3d...4d...pick your poison.

Heat the vinyl and "push" into the crease. After it sits and the vinyl is holding I would recommend post heating to just to insure that it holds...be careful not to heat to the point that it starts lifting again or you might as well redo the vinyl.

It depends on quality of either one. You can buy cheap plotters and cheap computers. Personally I went with a cheaper model plotter (PCUT) because I was just starting out in the decal world and didn't know if it was something I would continue with or not so I didn't wanna drop but a few hundred $$. I use it almost every day and still going strong after 3 years. Im a graphic designer by trade so I didn't want to "downgrade" my computer cause that's how I pay the bills lol. To each their own though. I will be investing in a new cutter/printer and all in the future but again will be searching for something that can run off Mac and still be a quality machine.

Im gonna be different and tell you NOT to get a different computer but find a different cutter. I had to shop around to find a Mac compatible but Im extremely happy that I did. Windows and I don't get along very well. Granted I use a Microsoft Surface and run Windows 8 at work (not by choice) and don't have many problems...I prefer the ease of Mac OS and love not having to worry about viruses.

That was the original plan. The customer is now wanting the Satin though, which has a slight shine to it but still almost a matte finish.

Im looking for a good satin black vinyl. Needs to be equivilant to 751 or 951 being that I am using it for truck graphics. I can go with the Avery SW900 wrap vinyl but I am afraid the thickness of the wrap vinyl will be noticeably different than the 751 Cardinal Red I have for the F-150 part.

That would be the reason why they drive an old Winnebago and not a Prevost Coach

Damn did brandsoftheworld throw up on his computer? Hope he doesn't make a killing off that or his buisness will be dead too.

So far with CC I have had 3 version updates since it's debut in 2013...pretty much a new version each year with 2014 being the most drastic change. Also some small monthly updates that fixes minor bug issues and whatnot.

its actually a little different. More features and plug-ins than CS6. I have both CC and a version of CS6 that I keep for a backup.

I am not offended by this as others stated. Seems playful but YES I can see how this is skating on thin ice. Now if someone wants to burn and stomp on our Stars and Stripes....start packing cause you don't belong here.

Here's the lettering.... http://www.brandsoftheworld.com/search/logo?search_api_views_fulltext=Boss%20302 Stripe is the easy part. I would redraw and plot/cut the side stripe and do the hood with knifeless tape. I would also suggest Oracal 751 or 951 for the vinyl or even get the wrap grade...although 3M makes great everything don't buy their 1080 wrap vinyl. Lot's of quality control issues that need to be addressed before you "waste" your money on a junk roll of material. Get the Avery SW900 if you go with the wrap grade.