Dr12volt1338

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Posts posted by Dr12volt1338

  2. Posted

    If it were me I would apply it in 2 separate layers. The solid black wet no mask. Give it PLENTY of time to dry and since I am a window tinter by trade I have the proper hard large squeegees I would need... I would then apply the red layer....

    On the left side of the design make sure you give yourself plenty of room for the overlap on both layers but I would alternate the long side and short side for the over lap from the red to black layer...

    I would soak the van and the vinyl with app fluid have the van marked out with masking tape so you have a good solid outer edge so lining everything up is a breeze. Before you try and apply the red layer make sure the black layer is dried this will make life easy.... Also make sure you have at least 1 extra set of hands available.

    Again this is just the way I would do it as I am used to tinting glass so I am used to working with large pieces of film. Everyone has to find a way they are comfortable with. As long as it looks good in the end there is no real wrong way to do it.. Some may be more work or take longer but until you have alot of practice you have to do what you feel you are most comfortable with.

    As an added note with something that large I would get yourself an Orange Crush Squeegee and handle. It will allow you get the water out from between the film and van... Put a scrap piece up there to practice on you want to push hard but not hard enough to scratch or tear the film... Also you will need to have a heat gun you may have to heat the film to get it to seat probably in the body lines or channels and along the contour....

  5. Posted

    I wasn't knocking your design at all it looks good.... What I did when I was just sitting around with nothing to do is took different images and vectored them and played with node editing now I can do it in a very timely manor.

  6. Posted

    OK, I'll bite, what properties of the Greenstar were you unhappy with? (Or, conversely, what about the Avery is so much better?)

    While I'm here, I wonder what's up with the uneven edges of the letters? (look at the bottoms of those A's)

    He should have done more node editing on the letters.... The design her was working with had some bad spots.... Not knocking you down at all I am just saying I would have cleaned the edges up more...

    About the greenstar I use a lot of the red and black I have a customer who is always changing and replacing sale banners and yard signs so that is what I use for him.... The big difference I can feel is the Greenstar almost feels "crunchy" compared to Oracal.. Oracal always has a softer more latex feel to it... (Lets keep the jokes and snickering to a minimum :) )

  7. Posted

    This one is killing me.... Those M's look so familiar but I think the font is on the other computer and the old lady is using that skyping with her relatives out West so I won't be able to look until later...

  13. Posted

    I would use both and see which one feels more natural..... There are FAR more people here who use SignBlazer so if you use that and run into an issue it will most likely be easier to locate answers here then it would be for Corel...... SignBlazer will do everything Corel will do and I think it's much easier to cut from SignBlazer...

    • Like 1

  16. Posted

    1. I woudn't spend the extra money for Corel when you can get SignBlazer for free from the forum here... The cutter is a decent ENTRY level machine. (I know others will argue since they use them everyday.)

    2. Depending on how intricate your design is 2"x2" on the machine may be stretching it.... You can buy material that is desktop inkjet printable... Has to be Aqueous vinyl. It will not hold up in the sunlight but would probably be just fine for shipping boxes... Although I would think dollar for dollar you could have someone print you rolls of them cheaper with a solvent printer then what you could print these for...

    3. You will need to get a high temp sublimation kit or set up to do printed heat transfers.... Richard and Cobra Ink offers complete Epson setups that are WELL worth it for doing printed stuff like this....

    4. There are millions of clipart discs out there. The big auction site and Uscutter offer many. Once you get some more posts in here there are actually a few diesel fans here who have offered some of their diesel designs. I believe you have to get to 25 posts to see that section though....

    As with anything if this is something you are serious about buy the best you can supply a budget for.. I think you will be ok with the SC series if you are making larger designs and I think that ordering an EPSON with a high heat sublimation kit is the way to go for the rest of what you are looking to do...... There are a few members here who would be more then willing to give you a price on printing your logo for your boxes and I am sure most all of them have the ability to contour cut them. Just depends on how much you want to invest in each unit.

    Also Welcome to the forum!!!!!

  21. Posted

    Thanks SKEETER thats what I was looking for.... I wonder if thats something they didn't offer in Flexi 8.6 because the version of LXi I have is newer also.... I hate having to shut down and reopen Flexi to get it to recognize new fonts...

  22. Posted

    Any of you other Flexi users, When you install a new font with flexi running do you get a window that pops up saying that the font list has changed and asking if you want to refresh it.... I used to get that in LXi and LOVED it but Flexi doesn't seem to do it......

  23. Posted

    You can layer heat press vinyl to get multiple colors....(Most of them some say do not layer.) You just have to figure out at what point is it not worth it to press them and print instead.... You can look into a Sublimation setup with printable transfers also......