Dr12volt1338

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Posts posted by Dr12volt1338

  1. Posted

    I only thought that 500 came in a 24" and 42" like the 800 I have....... I have the zip file with all the drivers or both... I think it is to large to put here... Let me track them down and I will load them to my dropbox and post that link...

    Actually here is the link from the HP site.... It is VERY VERY important you select the EXACT model you have as you see there are multiple options... There should be a tag on your printer that gives the exact model if not it will give you the HP part number and you can cross that.....

    http://h20000.www2.h...dSeriesId=25301

    Another point on the contour cutting is make sure you load the image the proper way into your cutter... There are arrows that point which way it needs to be loaded.... also try using 4 Registration marks instead of the 2... I think I remember reading somewhere some people were having issues with it not completing cuts and that solved it for them.

  2. Posted

    Yes you can Node edit.... 5th tool down on far left... As far as printing if you are using rip and print I also have had issues with it printing darker then it should on some printers. If I Rip and Print to my Epson 1100 it is fine, However when sending via this method to be HP Designjet 800 it is very dark... I looked over the net looking for a solution and was unable to find one.... When you Rip and Print the Production manager comes up on the third tab over there are options for media type and color correction you could try and play with those and see what happens....

    Back to the node editing I have found it is easier for me to still use Inkscape for that as it is easier for since I am more familiar with it..

    As far as the contour cut goes, What cutter do you have? How is it connected? I had many many many many issues with mine trying to contour cut via USB.. It would never actually cut around the image but through it and way around it.. I went to a Serial connection and it has been PERFECT ever since... Even on very complex contours where I am cutting around the outside and also parts from within the image without any issues....

  6. Posted

    When I first started I labeled EVERYTHING in my house... Girlfriend went insane all the cupboards the fridge the dishwasher her hair dryer curling iron..... Then when I wanted to learn how to layer everything for removed and re labeled in 2 colors... Practice makes perfect.... (Or in my case better not perfect.)

  8. Posted

    A long and time consuming thing I do is I use paint shop pro(save as) or sometimes my LXi(export) and save every esp and ai file as a jpeg with the same name and then I can just look in the folders and see it without having to open each one to see what it is. Might be time consuming doing it but in the long run it has been a time saver. Reason I use paint shop pro is you can open several at one time, not one at a time like most programs. I am learning how to use LXi (Flexi) and it has a lot of great features. I have used Inkscape a lot in the past, very good program for free to use.

    I would suggest Irfan view to you also.... You can use Irfan view thumbnails and it will show you all the .eps files in the folder you select.....

  10. Posted

    Clumsy Bustard.... your supposed to remove you hand before closing. :P

    Volt hang a sign that warns Wet Paint or Hot Surface... first thing people do is poke at it. :blink:

    I know when I ran the maintenance crew I had a shirt that said "You can tell people there are 102 Zillion stars in space and they will believe you but tell them the paint is wet and they have to touch it to see."

  11. Posted

    I bought a 91k logo disc off fleabay....it is all in eps. Im extracting them now been 6 hours so fat....how can I get it to wear I dont have to look it up in sb to see what it looks like...is there an easier way? Also how do I clean a file up that doesnt have real sharp lines

    +1 on Irfan view. You can edit the nodes for the .EPS images with sign blazer or inkscape.

  15. Posted

    Its just a dirt car

    Well if its in a series that bump and rub go with the cheapest you can get... I use Greenstar on all my bombers and street stock.... Modifieds around here some of these guys have $20,000 in just an engine so there is NO bumping or rubbing so I use better material on those since they should look bright and flashy.

  21. Posted

    thank you guys for all your assistance! btw how did you do that coaster??

    I would guess he found a larger image of just the Blue Angels and traced and cleaned it in Inkscape.... If you do a google image search you will find a few images of the writing that are easier to work with.

  23. Posted

    I did some research on the "Blue Angels" part and it is a custom logo that was written out just for that so the font does not exist.... Looks like Coaster did a pretty good job of tracing it....

  25. Posted

    If they are touching, I use photoshop to blank out areas between so it will work better.

    I've done that in the past but am finding I am starting to recognize fonts every where I look now..... I also am recognizing what style each font is which helps HUGE is google searches.