Cal

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Posts posted by Cal


  1. Welcome aboard Brian.  Looks like you are planning to have a pretty fun class; it should spark a lot of creativity in those students.

    The only piece of that equipment that I can speak to is the SC 25" cutter.  I have one and it has been a reliable workhorse - but, and this is a large but - it is quite noisy.  IMHO, you will not be teaching anything over that when it is cutting out a project.  Are you well versed in AI or another design program?

    Cal


  2. On 9/8/2017 at 1:01 AM, Go-C Graphics said:

    So far I haven't had a problem turning a nice profit.   

     

    On 9/8/2017 at 1:36 AM, Jburns said:

    Go-C,

    If you don't already follow, I think you would like the engravers journal- their latest issue looks at displays like yours

    http://www.engraversjournal.com/3dissue/de2017-09/

     

    Go-C and Jburns, unfortunately I have run out of likes today.  Rest assured, I would be giving you the thumbs up if I could...

     

    th-1.jpeg


  3. Please check in when you can Arty, you too Go-C and everyone else down in Florida.

    On Friday we drove home (middle Georgia) from Tampa.  Traffic flowed pretty good until Gainesville and then was stop and go to the state line.

    Please check in with us, let us know you are ok...

    Cal

    • Like 1

  4. I have not done coroplast, but I have done a bunch of signs (Metal) and mirrors.  I would (I think) approach coroplast the same way.

    I use a large cardboard type of cutting mat, similar to this: http://www.uscutter.com/Self-Healing-Cutting-Mat

    I use this just to lay my project on and center things up with the grid.  When I do my stencil, I place registration marks at the outside centers.  

    When I apply the application tape, I make it long on one end that I make the "top end".  Then I use parchment paper and hinge it like 'goose has shown in the past.

    This allows me to lay the vinyl down on the project, center it up with the grids and when I have it placed I then secure it with the long end of application tape.  The rest is as shown in 'goose's video.  Works good for me.

    Now, for coroplast I might investigate getting a piece of plexiglass the same or close to the same thickness.  Just a piece 3-4" wide and a couple inches wider than the coroplast.  I would tape this to the cutting mata so that the coro was centered where needed and use this both as a "stop" for the coro and as a leveling tool to fasten the application tape to.

    I hope this all makes sense.

    Cal

    • Like 1

  5. Well, you have the most expensive tool!  Before you buy that pancake - let me hook mine up and run a few tests for you.  By itself it would be woefully inadequate for the job, but if you are only going to do a few it "might" work for you.  My concern with it, as stated above, is that it will have to run constantly.  Run constantly = heat; heat = water; water = wet sand; wet sand = plugged gun.  Wet sand in the cabinet seems to "never" dry out.

    It might be a week or so before I can do this, I am heavily involved in a remodeling job right now.

    Cal

    • Like 2