jaybyrd

The more buttons is the LP1 and from what I've seen so far it is louder than the LP2, but considerably faster. I don't know who makes up the specs for these machines but the speeds are exaggerated. After having used the LP1 for about 3 years the LP2 does seen to be a lot quieter, but still noisy. Jay

Just bought the Laserpoint 2 31" to give my LP1 24" a break and it cuts well after proper setup and adjustment. If you are going to be cutting fine detail or really small letters consider saving for a Graphtec or Roland. Also LP2 is slow even on highest setting but ! just did 2 shirts for a hunt club 10 minutes ago and it does heat transfer fine. Whichever machine you choose consider a Cleancuts 60' blade. The quality of your cuts is well worth the price of the blade. Jay

Around here $10 a foot. If you feel you can get more go for it but before I got on a delivery schedule with my local supplier I used to ride to the warehouse weekly and on their bulletin board was always at least 1 or 2 shops going out of business and selling off their equipment. I'm still here at $10 a foot, they're gone at $15 and $20 a foot. I'm not trying to lowball just keep my doors open. Jay

You either need a Graphtec, Roland or lots of patience. I do 1/4" on my Laserpoint 1 and Laserpoint 2 but even with the most careful setup on the cutter you still only get around 70% useable cuts. The problems can be totally random like cutting 2 good , 1 bad 3 good, etc. These machines just are well enough built for that accuracy. Jay

+1 for Siser Jay

+1 for Dakota Jay

The blade listed for Roland will fit your LP2. Jay

Is there any way to rename a font file so it would show up correctly in Corel??? Jay

Used to have 1 when I had an actual license for SBE way back when. The ones I use most often I know form memory. The other I can still open SignBlazer and check the names, just a pain in the butt. Jay

10 Oz. banner is extremely short term outdoors. 13 oz. is standard for outdoor, but heavier is better. Just make sure banner is tight as flapping in the wind will tear up even the best banner in no time. With the southern exposure I would expect it to fade faster than crack but with your cold temps you really need to make sure whatever type you use it stays tight. Jay

I would node edit the points down on the contours of the "W". But that's just me. Jay

Like This Jay Quality sucks (crappy trace) but right idea. raw.eps

I don't know if this is the best way but I had to do for a windshield banner. Direction are for Corel. 1: make a copy of image you want to split. 2: Make a rectangle and lay it over the top half of the letters where you want to split them 3: Select words and rectangle. Go to arrange/shaping/ back minus front 4: Use the copy that you made in the beginning and lay the rectangle over the bottom half of you letters and repeat step 3. If you can post file I can send back showing what I'm talking about. Jay

For those of us on the reverse of this ( I did away with signblazer a long time ago) who switch programs but want to keep the fonts that came with signblazer they have their file seperate from system fonts. When I switched to Corel I copied the signblazer font file and pasted the fonts into system font folder so that they show up in Corel. The only downside I haven't figured out is when you copy them over the names change from the actual font name to a letter code such sbf_a067 (Ariston). Jay

I sell clear shields that go over the plate. They are really cheap and if they get messed up I can just sell them another shield. http://www.wholesalecentral.com/hotplates/store.cfm?event=showcatalog&catid=22917 .020 are 49 cents each and I resell for $ with tag purchase, $1.50 without. Jay

We sell quite a bit of heat transfer vinyl but when you want full color images jpss is the way to go. Jay

I haven't had clogging with this printer but I use it for everything including invoicing and receipts so the longest it sits is over the weekend. The kit was preinstalled and from what I've seen they do a better job than I could have. I'm on my 3rd set of small refill ink bottles since I bought it (maybe 6 months ago) and not 1 problem. Jay

We change out dates quite a bit for little league, church functions, etc. and use 651 with no issues even when they bring it back next year and still have old dates on them. Peel up quickly with very little residue if any. Jay

I tried the multi cut when I first tried scalp thinking it would tile copies. Replaced that cut strip. Lesson learned Jay

I listen to everything they say and then when they leave I do it the right way. If they know more about this than those of us who do it for a living maybe they'd be interested in buying my shop and hiring me on. I sure miss a steady paycheck at times. Jay

Let me see if I understand what you asking with the differences 1: By transfer are you referring to the ones like JPSS that you print in your regular printer ? If so they are probably the most cost effective way to do custom shirts and I have had several that still look great after a year. 2: The print vinyl if I'm not mistaken is mostly for solvent type printer (think full color stickers) which is a rather large investment just starting out. 3: Sublimation is basically for 100% poly if you want good results with it. When transferred the only thing that actually transfers is the "ink" not the paper so when finished there is absolutely no hand (feel) on the finished product where products like JPSS actually transfer a substrate along with the ink so there is always something to be felt on the finished product. 4: Store bought transfer are usually screenprint based and by design have a noticeable feel to them. Just as a side note Epson w/ pigment ink can do cotton, poly, and cotton/poly blend. Sublimation is normally 100% poly and there is a significant price difference for the blank shirts. Jay

I'll have to post pics later today. I don't have any shirts laying around, we make each custom for the customer. The transfers have a feel to them referred to as hand. A light hand means very little feel the heavier the hand the more you will feel it on the shirt. The JPSS transfers are among the lightest hand transfers around, even more so after they've been washed once. Never had a complaint about them. The dark transfer on the other hand feel more like a patch on the shirt. We sell probably 100 JPSS for each dark transfer but stock them because some people really want them. Look up Alpha Supply as they have a sample pack with a bunch of different transfers at a reasonable price so you can make a few samples and see what you like the best. If you go JPSS I recommend buying off the big auction site. I buy the 8.5 X 11 for $66.50 per hundred shipped. About the DTG, I just payed off my house and don't really want to remortgage to buy a shirt printer. They keep coming down in price and I may reconsider in a couple years but that's just my preference and my customers are happy with what I offer. Jay

Cobra Ink is the way to go. They know their stuff. Jay

I have a question for the computer guys out there, I came in this morning and computer had tried to do automatic restart. BAD IDEA. Now when it boots and desktop comes up nothing is there (no icons, files, etc.) I'm thinking hard drive failure after several attempts at reboot and even an attempt at reinstalling windows same problem. Anyone want to chime in and either confirm my conclusion or offer alternative ideas please feel free. Any and all help is appreciated. Thanks, Jay

I have 2 500 externals. The only crap I lost was a rush job I did Friday just before close. Luckily I still I have my backup setup, only thing I need to reload is quickbooks and as is well for now. I will be ordering a hard drive later this week and hopefully that'll fix my problems. What I really need to do is update from corel 12 so I can run a newer computer but I'm just not $ready$ yet, been a slow first quarter around here. Jay