GraphxNMore

Why not just shrink the rifle slightly enough to fit the driver side window, the muzzle flash in the center window and the head in the passenger window? It appears it's three separate images anyway.

It was actually less with qty1, 5H, 37W and 1 in over 36". Considerably less, like $2.35 total. LOL

Here's one I did for my daughter's bedroom door. One of the colors' registration mark didn't cut properly.

I misunderstood. I took it as though you owned a chroma crystal system and was looking to upgrade to a different 3-D machine.

If you're using cream, use VelvetEtch. It won't blotch as it's a slower reacting. I've done al cream for a few months while waiting on weather to warm up so I can repair my blast cabinet. I mainly do mirrors though, so it's not like there's much of a disadvantage. I just did a pitcher/glass set that I wish I had my blaster for. I'm very unhappy. I'm going to give the customer the option of a 15% discount or wait on another set.

Link?

I'm thinking of doing some transparent to hide the lights and interior mechanics of the machine. Not sure if I'll put the decals on the inside then overlay with the transparent, or just flop the transparent on and put the decals on the outside. I prefer the first, so all they'd have on the outside is just the glass. I'll post the finished product.

Has anyone ever redone one? Local biker club wants the old stuff roved and some vinyl designs attached. The worry I have is allowing too much light through.

Is there a way to see the number of nodes in an image other than in the trace window?

I would say take the new card and stick in the old plotter. Are you gonna be stuck with the new one regardless? See if they'll let you swap them and say the old one was damaged when it fell apart.

I've been having trouble with weeding. I'm talking SERIOUS trouble. Taking 30 minutes to weed ONE simple decal with three lines of text and a graphic. This has been going on for a while. I up pressure and it seems to help, but over the course of three or four cuts it reverts. So I change blades, same thing. After getting full blown irritated I pulled the blade out and checked it. Everything looks normal, no small pieces, holder clean, etc. I dig out a package of blades and compare to check degree, it's what it's supposed to be. So I'm putting the box of blades back up and I notice there's no name on them. I dig around and find a box of Roland blades and compare. Went to get a magnifying glass and could see the ones from the package with no brand name had an arched edge of the cutting blade, while the Rolands were smooth. Evidently the ones I bought off eBay were knock offs, but weren't advertised as such. Moral of the story, don't scrimp, buy original OEM. It'll save a ton of headaches and they're not that much more expensive.

I gotta be a negative nancy, just ask my wife. I would remove a piece from the center of the e. Looks great though! I like the color scheme.

Letters are approximately 3/16 then? Should be able to cut them. I've done that size with my SC, Just slow it way down.

I saw a star wars font somewhere, I think dafont.com. Differrent letters provided different star wars characters.

Google Chrome. Piss on IE, ANY version.

I own over 30 guns of various forms.............as well as a backhoe and 525 acres. Just sayin.

Maybe?

I always speak to the athletic director if the school is big enough to justify one. If not, get in good with the head football coach and let him handle the process. Offer him a special one off item. Works every time.

Are you wanting your text to remain vertical, or the bottom of the letters be parallel to the arch? If you're wanting to arch and leave vertical, SCALP won't do it. But it will do the appearance in the above video.

They were off eBay I believe. They were advertised as genuine Roland blades, and were 5 bucks so I bought them. Didn't pay attention to the label initially. But hindsight is 20/20. On the ones that I know are genuine, the name Roland in on the label. It's not on the cheapies. But they were supposed to be.

These others that I got rooked with were junk straight out of the box. I didn't think much about it early because I just did a bunch of simple larger decals that were easy to weed. I chalked it up to blade depth and pressure. I've went from 25 on pressure to 115, now back to 30. I'll try to get a good pic of the blade edge to show the arc. It's crazy. Almost like used blades that were attempted to be resharpened.

So if I put red vinyl over the top of static cling,it will still stay in place on the window? This is one, but I won't use the entire surrounding oval. I'll just do a shadow layer. All the detail in the hoof and mouth/eye area won't remain when applying it and/or removing it. The easiest thing would be to print it of course. LOL

Here's a question. I have a logo that doesn't look right unless it's on a white background. I always layer it red over white to make it pop. I have a customer wanting a static cling of that logo, but not sure what the best route to take is.Can you layer static with static? Should I layer it with adhesive vinyl? Doing that would leave sticky areas where pieces are removed, as well as around the entire image.

That would be accurate if they're eating my hot wings!!!! XXX Hot habanero sauce. LOL I don't know how people eat that stuff, but I can't make enough.

Needless to say, with the Roland blade I was able to weed 8 of the same decal that was taking 20-30 minutes each in that same amount of time. And I also was texting and made 2 phone calls during the process.