GraphxNMore

What I've noticed with my NEW T2 is if I run pressure below around 35, the holder won't even drop. Bump it up and it works perfectly.

<blockquote class='ipsBlockquote'data-author="JohnatUSCutter" data-cid="406743" data-time="1446220169"><p> This sounds like a static issue to me. We're seeing a lot of those right now with the change of the seasons.<br /> <br /> <a href='http://www.uscutter.com/Anit-Static-Kit-for-Vinyl-Cutters.'>http://www.uscutter.com/Anit-Static-Kit-for-Vinyl-Cutters.</a><br /> <br /> <a href='http://www.uline.com/BL_1755/Anti-Static-Mats'>http://www.uline.com/BL_1755/Anti-Static-Mats</a><br /> <br /> Two suggestions to fix it.</p></blockquote> Not necessarily. He said it's just one file doing it.

I was thinking he could also use different colors in one single decal. Kinda break it up a little.

Anyone out there have this happen? Test cut from machine worked perfectly, just can't see my settings.

Send me the extra $$$.

It's the mother board. I took the side covers off and the ribbon for the USB port fell right out of the socket. Upon inspection of the display ribbon on the mother board, it was the same way; along with one of the prongs not even in the socket. I manipulated the prongs and installed the socket, then placed the ribbon. Connected everything and rested it on the stand. Plugged it up and voila. We're in business.............. but not so fast my friend. As soon as I snap down the pinch rollers it goes blank. I carefully removed the right hand cover and barely moved the ribbon for display and it flickers. Gonna order a mother board in the AM. And if anyone ever needs to work on one, the 4 screw on front beneath the cut off slot..... remove those and you have easier access to the mother board. Haven't cut anything since reassembling, I'll update on whether it helped the slowness of the mouse. Sill scratching my head on what to do about the popping of the vinyl in the cutoff slot.

Talked to USC, they're sending a new LCD. In the meantime he wants me to pull the ribbon and reconnect by chance it wasn't connected good enough. Here's the ribbon..... The only disconnect point is on the motherboard way down in the bottom. It's gonna be a compete dissemble. Also, does it not look like there's a pin or two not connected? And what's the other two pins not connected to anything about? I can't find any pics of the guts, just the assembly. As far as the mouse issue.... We were discussing that and got cut off. I'll work on that IF I get the display fixed. It might be a related issue; fix one, fix the other.

Two more issues. I went on ahead and cut a few jobs and found these problems...... 1: With the USB connected, my mouse is totally useless. I'm lucky if I can move it 2 inches. I can disconnect the cable and do anything I need to do. The second I reconnect it, it comes to a halt. 2: When cutting, the vinyl advances and catches in the cutting slot. It'll pop as it forces it on through. Very annoying. If anyone knows what to do about either of these, feel free to chime in. LOL I think I'm going to figure something to lay in the slot while cutting, then easily remove it when I need to cut off a job.

Still have my SC..... I'll call USC in the morning before I void the warranty. LOL

I should add that the blue back lighting in the display lights up, just no text.

What is he best way to cut it? Our school has paw prints that are perfectly detailed. Are they cut using dies? I've also seen letters cut as well.

Thanks for the responses!

Turn your design longways on the mat. If it won't fit, adjust your mat size. Basically you'll be cutting 10" wide and rolling off 36" of vinyl off the roll. And roll the vinyl off prior to cutting, don't make your cutter pull that much off.

It doesn't matter about origin in SCAL if mat orientation isn't set accordingly.

Oh, and I recreated the A to match the original. The vertical legs are actually parallel instead of coming to a point.

Can't get a good read on the ones with chevron. I know they're arched as well. Notice how all the centers of letter such as B, O, A, D & R is perfectly 4 sided. I think CHEER might be elongated, and actually think the others are stretched taller. Any help is appreciated.

I got it. I took the cheer font, arched it and spaced it out a little. Then created a shadow layer. then I took the original arched text and did back minus front to get the skinny chevrons. I'll post a pic tomorrow.

Thanks! Could the chevron on the others be the actual font minus backed after a shadow layer created? (shadow layer being the white part)

Post a screenshot of your mat. You probably have the mat oriented wrong.

Maybe they got tired of spending extra $$$ on an agreement. Think about it..... You're only getting a $30 trial software now. All they're doing is increasing their bottom line.

<blockquote class='ipsBlockquote'data-author="slice&dice" data-cid="405740" data-time="1445192636"><p> Let me ask a simple question, since you claim to have zero issues -- can you hit the RETURN key and start typing the next line of text, which would appear to be a rather useful and logical function?<br /> <br /> </p></blockquote> Actually, yes I can.

Back to topic..... Is it feeding before or after the cut job?

LOL @ everyone that says get away from SCAL. Really.... What's the big deal? I have zero issues with it and can complete most jobs as quick or quicker than in any other program.

<blockquote class='ipsBlockquote'data-author="Sue2" data-cid="404678" data-time="1444164603"><p> Is SHE or isn't SHE? <br /> <br /> <br /> <span rel='lightbox'><img src='https://uproxx.files.wordpress.com/2015/01/4613567001-e1421076262494.jpg?w=650' alt='Posted Image' class='bbc_img' /></span></p></blockquote> Looks like Kobe Bryant.

Wasn't sure which version you had. 4 Pro is much easier to navigate.