MadHatterGraphix

I can 1+ Dakota he is fast and reasonable.

Thanks Merc for sharing I will d/l tomorrow. Yeah noticed you haven't been on hope things are alright.

Well I was told by neenah and some other sources that I could not press Laser dark on top of Image Clip Koncert T transfer paper. I was told it would turn everything grey and not come out right. I decided to do my own test on made this shirt. I will admit lining up the two papers was a pain and was not accomplished however It didnt turn anything grey or light grey. I have a question also how would you go about getting this to line up better heat transfer tape as a guide?

Unisub metal blanks seem more forgiving I think its the coating used by sign chicken and digital graphx. Heres one of Digital Graphx's 5" with no holes that I converted into a clock.

There may bot be a need but its the want of a 54" cutter lol. I started on a Silhouette then got an MH and it did ok but where I worked out of static wasn't an issue the memory was thought but for a hobby person not a bad cutter. I upgraded to a Graphtec last year 24" because I wanted ARMs, and lets face it a way better cutter. Of course i' in debt up to my armpits but it was worth the gamble better clean cuts, quiet, accurate cutting and the tracking is amazing for long cutting.

Very nice what kind of vinyl did you use?

Oracal lists their silver chrome for 5 years.

Sub ink on the edge of paper it happens sometimes. Also 400 degrees at 60 sec does not burn the shirt if you use sheets. What you might want to do is invest in some pressing foam or pillows to see if you can soften up the edges.

Beautifully done I bet they are/ will love it. A laser is so universale. Have you cut aluminum shapes out with it?

I was feeling bad and it built up and I had to say something or I wouldn't have forgiven myself lol.

Goose if I ever forgot to say thank you I'm sorry and thank you.

Sorry to hear about the car accident man glad your recovering. No mats here either I always found them more of a tripping issues. When I get tired and sore from standing I will sit on my lazy bum lol.

People take your advice and forget ya it happens all the time, even people in private do the same thing. I think I have said thank you in advance if not thank you after the help. Some people just are not curtiois it's the name of the game on almost any forum. I specially love the newbies who didn't even study cutters or how they even worked and then get frustrated when we try and help or state it's been answered before look for it. Or tell them look on YouTube there's plenty of videos explaining it. Then you have those who are on and ask for help everyday and it's the most simplest thing to do, at least try to find the answers on google or YouTube. They get the answer from here and you don't see them again and never get a thank you. For all those great members who have helped other members without a thank you let me be the one to say Thank You for all your help some of us really do appreciate it.

Before this way of working was popular I use to get those plastic crayes and decent height thick card boxes and put my monitor and keyboard on top of them to stand back in 2009. I noticed when I sat to long my knees would hurt when I got up, it's felt like blood wasn't flowing down to my feet and my butt was getting sore. So I went ok let's see if standing helps and it did but then the feet got sore legs got tired after awhile so I would sit down for a little then get back up. Now I sit for 30 min and then stand for 30 minutes or I get up and walk to keep things moving. When you got these did you order the anti fatigue mats?

I think I found what I did wrong it probably wasnt cool enough will try again soon.

I received my new Ricoh laser printer and decided to give it a test. I set everything up like the instructions read 225 degrees, 20 seconds peel the married papers apart. Next heat press to 375 degrees press 25 seconds at high pressure which I used 9 on my hotronix fusion. and it came out like this. Now when I peeled the paper it seemed like it melted more and the glue didnt transfer to the print as good as it should. I'm thinking the paper is too old I might have had it since last March maybe a little later.it was in s somewhat controlled enviroment. I'm hoping its just the paper or I'm doing something wrong. Let me know what you all think.

I thought the apple button made it so you could cut even jpeg's or am I wrong.

What someone is telling you it isn't? Lol

Sign chicken I pretty much buy the larger shields from or as I like to call them Route 66 signs and from digital I picked up the small shields because they have them without holes and I wanted that hoping to get a pic of it soon to show.

Mr looks great smart idea too. And again thank you for serving our country.

I remember watching a video of Stahls teaching how to use it by using the laser paper but I want to make sure I buy the right thing on eBay. Unfortunately I jumped at smaller sheets to try the screen printing foil and now waiting on that. Maybe I will make a video of it either if it works or not.

Does anyone know what the foil is? I mean is it the same stuff as laser toner foil transfer, or hotfoil for stamping?

What blanks dos you get if you don't mind me asking? I did a test subject earlier dos what they recommended and it came out nice.

Sometimes you just need to do test cuts on your cutter to get the right pressure, speed and blade depth. And take notes laminate them and attach them to your cutter or if your titan has presets use them but make a list to remember that preset is for HTV cad cut, HTV Siser, Orcal 651.

I never recieved a chart I just did what I thought however would work. I just got some blanks from digital Grafx and they suggest 350 -360 for 60 to 70 seconds light to medium pressure, and to have the front of the blank face down on the heat press of course on top of the transfer.