tammy h
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Posts posted by tammy h
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I've been doing a lot more "editing" in SCAL. I love - the tracing feature as it seems much better to me than the other programs I've used. It could be more user friendly and that I'm just that inexperienced at it... but I love it.
I tend to go to "cut w/ my us cutter" to view the preview in between editing so I can see what I am doing better. I like this better than preview. Anyway- I adjust the screen size every time by making the viewing box larger and zooming in on the image. I'd like to see this preview image "remember" how you'd adjusted the screen size the last time- so every time you open that up - it comes up the same way you adjusted it the last time?
I'd also like to see on the editing mat - if you could select a grid line and it would highlight that row in a color - so you could see that everything is lining up perfectly without scrolling the mouse along the whole thing. What I'm suggesting is something like excel does- if you put your curser on a row - it highlights that row. I find myself moving things around to make sure they are lined up equally on both sides and it would be easier if the row were to highlight somehow.
Just my 2 cents...Tammy
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I strongly suspect this logo I'm working on may have been hand drawn. I am having a lot of problems "cleaning it up" - although I had to work from a scan of a koozie because I don't have the original art files. But- when looking at the t-shirt/ koozie I have with the design on it- done by someone else - it's not really clean. I'm now doing this for a semi box in a very large size. When I blow it up in SCAL you can really see the distortions (jagged lines). I have cut it in a smaller version and it doesn't look terrible- it matches the koozie / t-shirt pretty close. But- I don't want to make a huge decal for a semi bed and have it look sloppy.
Thought if I could identify the fonts - I could at least replace the text to make the clean up go faster...
Tammy:tammy 1.pdf]
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I have decided (I'm 90%) on a swing away due to all of your advice. I feel more comfortable working under an open space vs. the clamshell top. I am afraid I'd hurry to avoid burning myself and end up applying something crooked ruining a product. I think I'd also be able to get better light on the subject without the top overhead.
I've noticed though that on ebay a lot of the warranties are 6 mo to 1 year vs. US Cutter 90 days? I also have noticed that some of the combo's aren't much more than the regular swing aways. I know that people don't like them - but I'm wondering if I can get a combo for a little more- even if I don't use the accessories ... I wouldn't be out much? So it boils down to the question -- is there any difference on the t-shirt part of the combos vs. the regular swing aways? It looks like they are basically the same except some are smaller plates. I was looking at an 11x15 tshirt plate. But if there's a difference in the combo vs. the swing away t-shirt plate I would probably go back to the stand alone swing away (which I might do anyway).Tammy
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Have you tried the print on vinyl and do you know if inkjet works for that as well?
I think a majority of the time we're going to want to use the heat applied vinyl and /or a combination of the printed/ vinyl.
I agree- I'm trying to buy things as much as possible, that I will be able to use for quite a while- so when I have the money to spend I can buy something different instead of replacing something I bought too cheaply. But- sometimes you have this demand for something and you have to start somewhere and I guess we can always use the cheaper or smaller equipment as back up later.I am leaning towards a swing away heat press after reading all the posts. I really liked the idea of the combo but have read and received feedback that these are not really as great as the marketing would like you to believe. I really thought I'd go with a clamshell - but I'm a little worried about working under the heat and being able to get things perfectly lined up with the top over head. I'm hoping to make a decision soon... I have people wanting to know when I'll be able to do t-shirts/ sweatshirts etc.
Tammy
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Sorry to ask for more advice- but I'm really confused on this subject.
I see sublimation printing option w/ special transfer papers, printer and ink. I see where that blends more into the fabric.
I also see inkjet vinyl that can be printed it appears and heat applied? I see inkjet heat transfer papers - all different brands.
Can you use just a regular inkjet printer w/ out special ink? That seems too simple... so I assume there's a lot more to it. Can someone help point me in the right direction? I am getting ready to purchase a heat press- and want to know what my options are besides using just the colored vinyl. But- if it's a huge investment I might just stick with the vinyl for the time being.Tammy
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Thank you for all the feedback. I have another question- sorry for so many...
Is there a huge advantage of the swing away vs. clamshell? I don't have a ton of room so the clamshell seems better to me, but at the same time, I see where the swing away might be easier to use.
Tammy
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I have read thru several of the posts on heat presses- but a lot of them are a couple of years or more old.
I don't want to spend a fortune- but I'm getting requests for t-shirt capability etc.I would like to purchase something I can use in the future - as I get more requests etc. So- I am considering the combo on the US Cutter site?
Can anyone give me feedback on this? Is this something where I'd be better buying a stand alone swing arm and then buying separate presses for caps/ mugs later or are the combos as good? I see a lot about uneven heat and not being able to use them w/ Sub printing later because of uneven heat? Would this be a concern on this one?
Also- if I got with like a 15x11 or 12 - can I heat press in 2 parts if I'm doing something larger...
Last question- and sorry for so many- but I saw someone recommended doing some t-shirts w/ an iron? I was told by the USCUtter Rep that they didn't recommend this... Is this possible? If it is- I'd definitely love to try it that way. But- as also mentioned - I see the heat transfer vinyl is much more expensive and I certainly don't want to ruin a bunch of material...Thanks again- in advance- for all the advice! This group is so helpful !!
Tammy
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thank you!
I've never run into this before- but it's a new PC so I must have my settings to sleep faster. Plus this took a long time to cut because of the detail- size.Thanks again!
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I ran into a similiar issue this morning.
I'm cutting a large (47" x 60"ish) and it seems to have cut the print out - with the exception of 2 rows of text at the very bottom (47" side).It just seems to have cleanly left of that part of the picture. When I went to check on it - it had stopped and moved back into the "start" position like it always does like it was finished- when I noticed that it didn't cut that text. I think everything else is there- I will check again tonight.
My pc seemed to have "fallen asleep" and I'm wondering if it lost communcations at that point -or if it's something funky with the software seeings that it was a large graphic...
Any ideas would be helpful.If I change my mat size to move everything else off of the matt - would it just cut the text that I am missing? I don't want to try to re-cut the whole thing if it's all there for fear that it might be off just a bit and I'd run into a problem.
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Thank you Jay 2703 & Mz Skeeter! I was shocked when I read the response because I'd never seen anything like this from someone on this forum before. I re-read the post because I thought I'd read it wrong.
I have found this forum extremely helpful - and the advice on here has helped me get rolling!
I re-read several posts with people having similar issues and just as you suggested I wasn't being careful enough about lining up my vinyl. I thought I was- but - I guess I wasn't. Then- I think a second part of the problem was that I had increased my pressure to 105 based on what someone else said they used. Although this made for much easier weeding, I think it was adding to my issue.
Thanks again- and Merry Christmas!
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With all due respect, I asked for a little constructive advice ...
I didn't have "$500" to spare- and thought this would be fun- I bought the 50" cutter and wanted a good starting point because there are a lack of businesses in our area to provide this service satisfactorily. My husband needed decals for his truck and hadn't had great success getting what he wanted when he wanted it so we thought we'd give it a go. It sounds to me, like everything else, even the most experienced of user have issues, but it's a lot of trial and error and listening to advice from those that have more experience. I didn't want a costly investment on something that I might not like to do on an ongoing basis. Everyone has to start somewhere and so far this seems to have been a good small investment.
I have had a ton of success cutting with this machine so far thanks to the willingness of the helpful people on these boards that help out - and the great advice from the UC Cutter people.
I have narrowed down the possible issues and am trying again this morning. I had increased the pressure and it seems my depth might be too deep -so I might have been using too high a pressure & too deep a cut for this type of big project.
Tammy
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I hate to ask - but I need more help and this time a little urgently...
I am cutting out a 5" long x 24" wide piece in 2 colors. I ran the 1st color and noticed my tracking was slightly off.
Then when I started the 2nd color- the tracking varies by about 1" or more back & forth. I've not run into this problem before and have no clue what to do.
On this machine it appears that the pinch rollers need to be set on the white marks above them. I've done that and never had an issue before.
This was supposed to be a Christmas gift and since I've never had a problem before- thought I could run it tonight with no problems.
It's for a family member who knows they are getting it - so it's not a biggie in this case. However, I have a "job" for a semil box that will require a long length of material to be cut.I read on here to try cutting the material and not pulling from the role. I've done that and no luck.
Please help!
Tammy
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Thank you very much
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Have a Merry Christmas!
Tammy -
I have the Laserpoint II and I know when I purchased it I stumbled accross some instructions for the typical speed/ pressure settings, but now I can't find what I did with that information. I have been able to use it for basic things... But I need help with setting up the cutter (and what blade to use) for things with tiny- tiny details. I am working on a semi design that has tiny lights/ grill details etc. I am having a lot of trouble weeding it.
I have the blade depth correct I believe because I used the instructions (cuts thru a top piece of paper and not the 2nd) but the details want to "stick" together and tear a little when weeding. I'm wondering if I should be using the different degree blade and/or a different cutter setting.
Please advise if there's more information out there on this type of setting info...
Tammy
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We didn't paint the block ourselves, but it's shiny/ glossy paint. I was surprised it wouldn't take since it adheres to glass well.
Thank you very much for the suggestions!
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Thank you- for this information. I was becoming very frustrated with trying to do any node editing!
Can you post a link to the tutorials?
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We have painted concrete block in part of our basement and we tried affixing the vinyl to it and it absolutely won't stick. Is there a special application fluid that would help or does anyone have a tip on applying/ preparing?
Tammy
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Thank you for clearing up the registration/ use on 2 pc question. I am planning on purchasing another laptop and I'll want to be able to use it on both.
I've only used my cutter a few times and I was actually having issues with SB even using Inkscape. I especially wanted to be able to trace my husband's logo and was having a terrible time as SB wanted to leave "feathering" on it and I am finding that it appears as if SCAP is tracing much easier and seems to do a little cleaner job. I have only been working on designing and haven't tried cutting w/ it yet- so this post might be a bit premature.
Next I want to try the outline feature as I was having issues trying to outline text in a thicker outline w/out having to cut the black outline 2x.
Thanks again for everyone's feedback to get me this far!
Tammy
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THank you Banner John- that worked perfectly!
I'm not sure why I'm having trouble getting the help option up.
I was sure it said one of the nice things about this is that you can use this on 2 PC's at the same time- is that not true? I'm asking because I'm looking to purchase another PC and would like to use it on both. I guess it's not the end of the world if I can't - I'll just transfer to the new one- but if I can- it would be great.
Tammy
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Thank you for the feedback- I contacted US CUTTER an they were great about returning the package. I had to pay for return shipping + the ship of the new disc - so it cost me a little- but not as much as the full software! I have the SCALP now- but have another question.
I thought SCALP would support a much larger size? My mat size will only go to 12x24" is there a way to easily add mat sizes? My help works sometimes and other times it won't even pull up- so I'm not sure what's up with that.
Also are there any good tutorials/ videos for SCALP? The links on my help bar take me to SCAL basic versons... I didn't know if anyone had loaded videos/ tutorials on the newer versions...
Tammy
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I had problems ordering last week (Wed) and ended up clicking on SCAL 3 - not pro by accident. It didn't ship right away like I thought it would and I didn't receive it until Monday. I opened it early this AM to find that as I'm cutting the plastic it was 3.
Question 1- how good are they about returns on software? My guess is they are not... Would I have any luck re-selling it..?
Question 2- What is the main difference between 3 and Pro? I'm really interested in tracing...
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What is the difference between buying the keyspan to use on the USB port and using the serial port? Does the keyspan on the USB work as well?
Have you had good luck cutting small detail - say 1/2" letter and fine lines on the SC?
I had absolutely decided to buy the SC when I started reading posts on this forum and thought maybe I needed to go with a Graphex - but I'd really rather start with an SC. However, I don't want to spend a few hundred dollars and end up starting over.
Tammy
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Thank you again for the feedback.. This is a difficult decision- I thought I had it narrowed down- but - then started reading some of the comments and started to second guess.
On the serial port- I had read that people were having problems using the USB port. So from what I read the higher level models you don't need the serial port as much? Or is the 9 serial port better on all of the units?
So- there are no cutting differences between the SC and MH? Will the MH / SC both do like detail small logos ok? Our t-shirts typically have a very small logo w/ font on the front and a big logo/ font on the back.
I just wanted to leave the countour option open because I do want to buy a printer when we see if this is something we want to keep doing. I do want to start a small business doing things like wall designs, t-shirts, stickers, car logos, signs etc. I know buying a combo is terribly expensive- so thought if we bought a cutter that did contour a well- once we bought a printer we'd have that option.
Tammy
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Thank you so much for your feedback.
What is the main difference between the Copam and the SC.
I really want something with the contour cutting capability- but I hate to spend the kind of money I need to on the zen / graphtec.
I will want to do small details I imagine and I will want to do the truck logos for sure. That's why I thought with the SC I could go up to the bigger size.
- Also has anyone bought from Ebay (US Cutter) vs. from the store? I'm a little worried about the warranty difference.
Help- Deciding on Heat Press
in Heat Presses
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I've still not made a final decision -on a heat press. I've been going back & forth several times.
I was seriously leaning towards a swing away on ebay listed by Sun-ie. Then I noticed that it said 1" thick or less material for application- 1" adjustable? I would think on a really bulky hoodie this could be an issue... Please advise if the one you linked to on USCutter has the ability to do more than 1". Also- I don't see that listed on the clamshells.
One more question- on the clamshells is a 50% opening for a 15x15 pretty wide?
Sorry for all the questions- I just don't want to get something that's not useful.
I would prefer to buy from USCutter because that's where I've bought everything else but the warranty is 90 days where the Sun-ie is 1 year for the swing away and 2 years for the clamshell. They are a lot less expensive.