tammy h

Sorry to dig up this old thread. I've been "hibernating" under my work for a bit! I've been absolutely swamped!! (good thing!). I've obtained a desktop PC for my graphics office that I'd like to use SCALP to cut only. If I deactivate one of the versions on our laptops can I use the deactivated to design and save? I'm almost afraid to try it without advice first! I would cut in Signblazer on the laptop but almost ALL of my multi tab files are in SCALP format. I think it would be HOURS and HOURS of resaving as SVG's. Tammy

I would like to buy a budget 16x20 or 24 heat press for ease of layout on shirts. I am going to start pressing more of my own and I struggle with lining them up visually on a 15". I would also like a smaller back up cutter that I can move... I currently own a sunie 15" clamshell and a Laserpoint . I was approached by Pro-World on another forum about their $200 off press which would make it an attractive offer. If I bundled it with the GCC 24 it would be an ok price. My initial thought was a Gecko or a wold-paper heat press (no reviews that I can find) and another laserpoint II in a smaller size (2 seats of SCALP). So my questions are: Does anyone have comparisons between the GCC expert 24 and the USCutter Laserpoint? Is the GCC 24 a little more accurate (their claim)? I am currently having a few issues with my laserpoint - mainly on long cuts. Tracking is SO SO and I have to re-adjust consistently. It randomly from time to time will start cutting a long line on the edge of my vinyl during a graphic. All of this is recent and it's a little over a year old. Does anyone have experience with the Pro-World heat press in comparison to the Gecko or wold-paper? I like the world paper features (auto open etc.) for the price. But I can't find any reviews anywhere. I have a sunie and the pressure knob broke early on so we adjusted with the bolt but now that isn't working either. I use it but put fleece under it to get the pressure I need. I emailed them about the problem with no response. Thank you in advance for the advice!!!

OK- I still have 3.057 because I can't find 3.058 download does anyone have it? MY SCALP is not calling for an update when I log into it. Now another mysterious issue- when I am editing notes on certain files (new files) and I hit the delete key or right click to delete - it says SCALP is running into an error and has to close. Makes absolutely no sense as there's no common link as to when it does it and when it doesn't. I'm about ready to scream! I have soo many files that I'm not sure at this point which ones I made in 3.057 so if I have to go back to 3.053 I will have to resave a bunch in SVG. I can do that ... but I was really hoping they'd fix the program by now. Does anyone know if they are even working on another update or is 3.058 available somewhere? Also - for about 2 Saturdays now (when I do most of my cutting) - I've plugged in the USB to the PC and my pc shuts down with a critical error. Finally my USB went completely bad and I'm hoping that was the source of the issue but I'm not 100% sure. I've ordered a keyspan that should be here in the next few days. NOW I just hope I can get my PC to download it for use because I have windows 8 which is "buggy" when it comes to that. Tammy

Ok - so now anything that I cut / created on 3.057 over the last week or so- won't open at all. Even if I go into the SCALP itself and do the "open" ... ugh.

I was having problems with 3.057 also! I'm so glad someone posted this. It is randomly locking up, cutting random lines and I can't open existing projects thru the project itself. I'll try 3.058 or go back to that link on the 3.053.

Last night I started seeing the error again with the 3.057 version where it suddenly shut down and said I had run into an error with SCALP. I also can't open files from the file itself anymore. I had this problem in one of the really early versions. But - I have to go to SCALP and Open to find the file. If I double click on the file and try to open it - it tells me I have a bad file.

I just thought maybe I was doing something wrong or had a setting off. If that's the standard practice- I'm good with that. I've noticed it happens a lot more on heat transfer type- I assume because it's thinner and more slick. I usually have an ok margin on the side when I get the 20" but when I get 15" sometimes I run close. It's doing it on the sides and the front line peridically. Tammy

Thank you!

We MIGHT / HOPEFULLY be headed to Vegas in the next couple of months. I've never attended a tradeshow - and I'd love to! I do vinyl signs, wall decals, laser printing transfers, heat transfer vinyl. Does anyone know of a tradeshow coming up in Vegas or the best resources to find some? Tammy

While I am cutting, the blade will grab the edge of the vinyl on either a side or the front edge and curl it under causing it to wrinkle up etc. I'm not sure why it won't cut close to the edge- is that normal? Should I be only trying to cut further away from the edge? My issue is that when my roll is off say 1/8" over the length of the cut - sometimes it gets really close to the edge. I am leaving 1/4" around the edges approx. vs. the size of the roll. I thought that would be enough but maybe it's not... Is there a specific setting that would be causing this? Should I try to adjust my rollers and how do I do that? Tammy

I downloaded 3.057 and I'm having the same issue - random lines and letters or figures cutting half way or not at all. I'm losing track of which versions are good. My computer had crashed so I went back to 3.048 because that's what I had downloaded on my memory stick. Had problems with it. Now- with 3.057. I'm lost... Which version is safe- it's it the 3.053? I'm not sure at this point if it's my PC or the program. I'm running an ASUS windows 8. I have my screensaver and screen dim set to 30 minutes.

I have a customer who wants 1 banner in a couple of weeks with a tie dyed lettering? Any pointers on where to find this at a reasonable price? They plan to leave the banner up for a couple of weeks. Tammy

I like the idea of the 50% upcharge for 2nd color. It becomes expensive especially when buying metallic or other upcharged colors. so- this helps with the profits. As you said- for smaller items it is not as notieable in the bottom line but for bigger projects it's a lot of cost in vinyl.

This sounds like a pretty good method to follow. So- I wouldn't need to look at the width so much because they are normally proportionate...? Thank you for the help!

I have a question on this one as well- I have a large text piece for a semi trailer- that they want 2 toned so I'm using 2 pieces of vinyl - one in 24" x 155" ish for the outline and then the other is 22" x 151"ish for font. One is metallic gold and one is regular oracal. Is there an upcharge normally for specialty vinyl using this calculation method and do you charge 2x for the 2 pieces of vinyl? I don't want to overcharge but I don't want to cheat myself either... I'm using 651 because we've had good success with it. Tammy