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Posts posted by darcshadow
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Now that is a GREAT attitude to have!
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Might also try calling customer service again and talk to a different tech. Who ever it was you talked to that told you to kept extending the blade doesn't know how to do their job.
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Same here, 651 or greenstar. Have also use 631, but it has to be a flat piece. 631 is really hard to get to lay flat and stick on a glass. Also agree with clhyer, you spend more time masking and un masking then you do blasting. One thing I've started doing, is to use a plastic cup to cover the the top and sometimes bottom of the glass I'm blasting. much easier and faster than trying to tape it all off.
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Or if you don't have AI, Inkscape is a free vector program. It's best to create designs in vector format to start with, you'll always produce a better result than if you trace something.
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Is the Xbox controller part of the CNC, or just happened to be laying in the photo?
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I don't know how VinylMaster, but worse case, you cut what you have pictured above and just weed away the black part.
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USCutter sells a ground strap that hangs from the cutter and lays on the vinyl that would work for you here. You could also just make one, it's nothing more than a wire and some magnets to hold it in place.
The key is to ground the vinyl, doesn't really matter if the stand is grounded or not, but with a metal stand it's easiest to ground the stand which then in turn grounds the vinyl that is sitting on it.
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Does computer 1 have an actual serial port? And if so are you using a straight cable or a null modem cable? I don't remember for sure which the MH uses, I believe it uses a null modem cable.
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Love his logo, that is great! Nice work on the conversion to a solid color.
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There ya go, the temp is even colder than I thought. I don't even keep my house that cold in the summer time.
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I seem to recall reading that most vinyl the recommended temp. for storage was something like 65F-75F. Don't remember the exact number, I just remember that the upper temperature was much lower than I would have expected.
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Size and shape of the design has a lot to do with it as well.
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Have you tried laying the decal face down and pealing the backing away from the decal rather than pealing the decal away from the backing?
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Have you cut this design in the past? Or have you tried cutting an old design, just to verify that it is not an issue with the file?
You said this just started happening, has anything changed recently?
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Serial cable is great, but I would not expect it to fix this issue. What sort of scale are we looking at here? How big are those gaps between the start and stop of the cut?
Also what software are you using, and have you tried a different one? No idea why it would suddenly stop working as before, but you can't rule it out.
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Have you tried using the pen adapter? If it does not do it with pen and paper then that would indicate static is your problem.
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You can get external hard drives, or you can get an external hard drive enclosure and put what ever drive you like in it. The enclosures only can be found pretty cheaply, and if you're just using it for backup only I'd suggest a NAS (Network Attached storage). A NAS drive you could put in your closet next to your router and never think about it.
Here's an example of an enclosure only, https://www.ebay.com/i/281757636091?chn=ps&dispItem=1 You simply take it apart put what ever drive you want in it and you're good to go.
Here's an example of a NAS enclosure, https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/AOTECH-USB3-0-WiFi-NAS-to_1622623109.html Put what ever hard drive you want in it, connect it to your network and access it from any computer on your network
RAIDs have basically two types, they can mirror drives, so anything you write to the raid is written to multiple drives so in this case you'd have a back up of your back, although it requires 2 drives of equal size. The other setting is striping, where a single file is written to multiple drives. So you could have say four 1TB drives but it would appear as a single 4TB or approximately 4TB, drive to your computer. There are multiple striping settings which I don't fully understand, but part of the idea of striping is, if one drive goes bad, you may still be able to recover most of your data. Another advantage of RAIDs is depending on how the files are being accessed a RAID setup can be quite a bit faster than a single drive.
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Are you moving the drive around a lot, or just wanting a backup that is not installed in the computer? If moving around a lot you might want to really look at a SDD. No moving parts so the drive can take a pretty good beating with no worry of failure. They get pretty expensive though when you get into the terabyte range.
You might also consider an external enclosure that you can then put what ever hard drive you want in it. Or even a multi drive enclosure that you can setup as a raid drive. That way if one drive fails you can still recover most, if not all of your data.
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That'd be my guess as well, a raster image saved in an eps file. Happens quite often. Open the file and then zoom way in on it. Do the lines stay nice and crisp or do they get blocky? If they get blocky you have a raster image.
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Don't save the file as a PNG, that is a raster image so you're forcing your cricut to revector it and that is where you are loosing your detail. I believe Cricut can import ai files, but if not save the file as an eps or svg and import that into Cricut.
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Thanks.
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Correct, not a feature in Signblazer. Best bet is to find a different cut program that has that feature. Unfortunately I have not been able to find one that is also free. The best I've come up with is to use Inkscape to cut with. Not an actual cut program, just an option that has been added so it doesn't have all the extras that cut programs have, but it does have an over cut option.
Can I cut foam board
in Other Materials
Posted
I'm not sure exactly on the max thickness, but I know it's not much. Anything much thicker than about 2, maybe 3 layers of vinyl will be too thick to cut with a MH.