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Posts posted by darcshadow
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You sure about that? You can download the flash plug-in directly from Mozilla's support web page. I am seeing online where FireFox disabled it by default a few years ago, but you can still enable it through the Add-ons Manager.
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12 hours ago, VinylTeez said:Thanks Dakota
I use SCAL and Inkscape. I was able to take out the Mike Will but the smokey black around it was giving me problems. I don't usually do any photoshop or image editing. My main thing is pretty much just text.
I'm definitely open minded and don't want to be "fed". I like to try to do my own thing before asking for help.
So did you use the auto trace function in inkscape? As Primal did, finding the font and recreating it is the ideal way to go. Second option would be to manually trace it all. The letters in this case are pretty basic and a manual trace using the bezier tool should give good results.
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Do a search on here about setting blade depth, tons of post about how to do it. Read through those and get the blade set right. If your blade was too far out you may have damaged the tip and are not getting a clean of a cut as you should so you might try putting a new blade in and go through the depth setting procedure again.
I have a low end machine and getting the blade set right makes all the difference in the world.
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While that design is not the easiest, it shouldn't be too hard and with the amount of trouble you're having I would suspect you don't have your blade depth, and/or pressure set exact enough.
Going back and adding in some cut lines could help a great deal as well. A cut line where the steam of the leaves would be would help quite a bit I think.
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You peel the transfer tape off with the vinyl still on the backing paper? How do you do that with out pulling the vinyl up and making a total mess?
Typically one would start with the top layer and work down, never separating the vinyl from the application tape.
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Just a note on Inkscape, yes, it does not import EPS files natively, but with the aid of another program called Ghostscript Inkscape can be made to open EPS. Just do a google search for Inkscape and EPS and you should find the instructions on how to get it setup.
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Dakota has already helped you, but if I may, how were you trying to remove the section? The part you're wanting to keep is pretty basic and would be a very simple manual trace. If you've never done a manual trace this would be a good image to practice on.
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On 5/12/2017 at 5:32 PM, criesner said:hey the screenshot didn't show up. I didn't set up the machine but it looks like it's properly grounded with a wire going from one screw to another
Looks like I didn't attach it. opps
Do you have another cutting program? If not, give SignBlazer a try and see if it behaves the same way. If it does then at least we've eliminated the software as the problem.
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Any cutter can technically contour cut, the trick is getting everything lined up so that the contour cut is exactly where you want. If you have the patience and ability to take good measurements, you could contour cut without any special software, again, just a matter of lining everything up both in the software and hardware.
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Here's a screen shot of my connection settings in Inkscape, they are all the default settings so unless you've changed anything they should all be correct and not likely to be the problem.
My guess at this point would be static. Ground your stand/vinyl and try again. There are tons of posts on here about how to go about doing that, just do a search for grounding and/or static and you should find all the info you need.
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If you didn't ground it, then most likely it's not. Do a search on here on grounding the stand. It's pretty easy, just need to run a wire from the stand to a ground on the cutter.
Baud rate is a comm thing, nothing to do with pressure. The reset button will reset it to 9600, so make sure that Inkscape is set to 9600 as well, that is the default in Inkscape as well I believe. I don't remember what the other settings need to be, I'll check when I get home tonight. The Serial Flow Control in Inkscape is default to Software, that may need to be different.
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I may be the only one on here that uses Inkscape to cut with and I've never had any problems like you're describing. Only thing I can think of off hand is a comm issue. Double check the buad rates maybe.
Could also be static possibly, do you have the cutter on a stand, and the stand grounded?
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I was surprised to learn that the Gulf War was the first time the A-10 saw combat. Grew up with them flying around our house using the gas plant as target practice and I had always just assumed they had been around long enough that they saw combat at some point.
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The search bar is your friend.
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UL is mostly an American thing and is not mandatory.
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Well it is true, rarely does the start of a cut actually start where the blade is positioned, it almost always moves first, I think that's what Skeeter was saying.
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With some practice, you should be able to put a graphic that size on dry pretty easily.
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Sorry forgot to look at SB when I got home last night, I'll try and remember again tonight. FYI, you shouldn't loose any of your files when you uninstall the program. Always a good idea to back things up though.
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I use to use SB and never had a problem like you're describing and can't thing of any settings off hand that would need to be checked. When I get time tonight I'll look at my SB and see if anything jumps out at me for you to check.
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Signblazer is good for basic stuff, and is free. It's both a cut and design software. Inkscape is a free design program, and can do nearly as much as the high priced design programs such as Corel, or Adobe. They all have a learning curve and some things are easier to do in one program than another, it all comes down to personal preference. I'm a big fan of Inkscape simply because it's free, and quite powerful, I have not been able to do what I needed using Inkscape although I know some things I've done can be done much easier and faster in other software.
As Skeeter asked though, what do you have now? If all you're wanting to do is basic text most likely what you have will get the job done.
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Ha! Seems like every few months you hear about a car jacker that couldn't drive it away because it's a manual. Seems like a pretty basic job requirement if you're going to steel cars. What amazes me, I can understand never having driven one, but to not even know how just baffles me. Guess it just came naturally to me, I jumped into a friends car in high school and just took off, never had anyone tell me the first thing about a manual car.
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Sounds to me it's knowledge, you have inkscape, which is a great free program that can do more than enough to get your feet wet, but like all software, it does have a learning curve and if you've never worked with vector art work before that learning curve is a bit steeper. Wrapping your head around vectors and how it all works is the first step.
Start with something simple. Use inkscape and just draw some random shapes, maybe a circle, square, and triangle, all overlapping a little bit and in different colors. Save that file off as an eps then import it into VM, key word being import. You do not need to vector anything, the file you created in Inkscape already is a vector, so if you're using VM to vector it you've done something wrong.
Once you figure out how to do this basic exercise it shouldn't be much harder to do what you are wanting.
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Good to hear, hate to see cars never used to their full potential.
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I would guess it's probably has several raster graphics stored in the file. As Skeeter was referring too, just because a file is saved as an EPS, doesn't mean the image is a vector.
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he he, slow blow.