darcshadow

Yeah, select the image and hold the shift key while selecting a color from the color bar at the bottom of the screen will add a stroke to the object. Adjust the size till you're happy then convert the stroke to path. The peacock image is a pretty complex one, I'd suggest a smaller simpler design to work out how the best way to do it would be. I really don't think there is an easy way to do what you're wanting to do. Another option would be to draw the image on paper to the size you want then scan that image.

If retracing the line is an option you want to pursue that would probably give you the best results. The Bezier tool or freehand lines tool can be used to trace the existing lines. Either tool you'll need to go back and node edit the line to get it exactly where you want. Adjust the stroke width to what you want. Save the file at this point and keep it in case you ever want to make the image again in a different size. Size the image and the stroke widths to what you want, select all and from the menu bar, Path -> stroke to path. Then merge all the paths to form a single shape, select all, Path -> Union.

Only other option I can think of that, while more work will probably give you better results. Resize the image, break it apart, then manipulate each individual shape to get the desired gap between shapes.

Inkscape can open PDF files, and there is a chance the image is already a vector. If not you can still do the trace on the image once loaded into Inkscape. Once traced the image, you can add a stroke to the shape to make it thicker, however a stroke will not change how the image is cut. Once you get the stroke sized the way you want you'll want to duplicate it, then convert it to a path and then merge the new path and the old path and lastly remove the stroke from the merged path. Although I don't think this will work quite the way you're hoping. Only option I can see would be to manually redraw/trace the image using only strokes. Then size the image, then adjust the stroke size, then convert the stroke to a path.

I wouldn't mind a wireless option. I don't have the cutter very far from the computer, but it's far enough that I can't hide the cables and have to disconnect them when done so I don't trip/roll over them.

Looks to me like the rollers are not gripping well enough and after a certain point not moving the paper at all so all you get is the side to side motion. The good lines that it did draw look pretty jagged. Like xpaperman said, check your drawing, is it jagged like that, if not, I'd try slowing down the cutter speed.

draw a circle, then draw a rectangle that covers the bottom half, then punch the rectangle through the circle and delete the rectangle. Could also draw a circle then node edit it.

Can't blame anyone for trying to make a buck, but really? $15 for two magnets and a piece of conductive string? I also like the note at the bottom of the page. "If static problems continue then attach a grounding wire to a screw on the bottom of the machine and the other end to a screw on the stand of your vinyl cutter (or some other ground)." Why not just do that first. lol http://www.uscutter.com/Anit-Static-Kit-for-Vinyl-Cutters *note, the web address has anti spelled wrong.

theresat, the cutter shouldn't be building up static, it should be grounded and all static will discharge into the ground. The vinyl as is unrolls and moves around will generate static. Since the vinyl is usually touching the stand, and the stand is metal if the stand is grounded the static from the vinyl will be discharged through the stand and safely into ground. If the stand is not grounded the static will discharge though the nearest conductor, which is usually the metal blade on the cutter. Because of this, the circuit board on the cut head can get zapped causing strange cuts, or a completely blown card. So long as you are not touching circuit boards, or anything too near the circuit boards, you getting zapped, or more accurately, you zapping the machine, shouldn't have any damaging effect to the cutter.

How's this? Boy-Kite.svg

I have a 8 or 10 gallon compressor, don't remember for sure, it works, but does run a bit more than I'd like. The pressure that the manual says to use for a cabinet/gun is usually much higher than actually necessary. The lower the pressure you can use and still get the job done the longer your air supply will last. I also went with a cabinet that is a solid unit rather than parts that are put together. This way the only location for possible leaks is the exhaust ports and around the glass. Haven't used it much yet, but so far I really like it. It's a Cyclone E500, only thing I didn't like about it was the light source. So instead of using a bulb I bought some LED strips and put them all around the edge inside. Has the advantage of lighting the box with out blinding yourself and with the LEDs being all around there is little to no shadows.

There's a portable version of Inkscape, installs to a thumb drive and runs off of it. Nothing gets installed or saved to the computer.

AO here as well, I like the look of 120 grit. Glass beads will etch glass, but think about it, using glass to etch glass, not going to work the best. You want something harder than the item you are trying to etch. My understanding of glass beads, is it's more of a stripping/polishing blast media.

Inkscape calls it outline, on the menu bar select View -> Display Mode -> Outline. As far as tracing, in Inkscape you can make some adjustments regarding smoothness of paths. If your image has both sharp corners and smooth curves it's hard to get a trace that captures both. Play around with the settings till you get something that you're happy with and then node edit it to clean up any trouble areas.

hmmm, that's odd. The cutter should be grounded through the power line. So if it building and holding a charge there is a grounding issue somewhere inside the unit, or possibly even the wiring of the house/building. I lived in a house for a few summers that had the ground wire miswired and it was actually hot. I see your earlier post said you don't have the factory stand, but that shouldn't matter if is the cutter that you are touching when you get zapped. If the stand is not grounded it would build up static from the vinyl then discharges into the cutter through the knife blade and possibly damaging the circuitry on the cutter head. Grounding the stand to the cutter allows the discharge to happen at safe levels and through non sensitive circuits. However it sounds like your cutter itself is not grounded so there is no place for the static to go other than into you when you touch it. If you have a DMM (volt, current, resistance meter) I'd suggest taking a reading between the 3 pins on our outlet. Between Neutral and ground typically is at or be near 0V. Between live and neutral should be around 120, and between live and ground will be around 120 assuming neutral and ground are near 0. If the outlet measures good, move onto the power cable. Switch to resistance on the DMM and measure from pin to pin on each end of the cable. Check for near 0 ohms on each wire, and make sure there is not a short between any of the wires. If that rings out good then I suspect there is a grounding issue internal to the cutter itself, possibly a faulty internal power supply.

In Inkscape I used Path effect editor, and choose Envelope Deformation then played around with the bend paths to get the desired look.

You getting zapped by anything is most likely not the object zapping you, but rather you zapping it. To test, before touching the thing zapping you, touch something else to ground yourself and discharge any static you have on you, you'll probably get a zap, then touch your equipment, you shouldn't get zapped then.

Here's my go at it with Inkscape. AMG.svg

ha! Good point, didn't pay any attention to the original post date.

What setting in inkscape did you use? I've never been able to get it to trace sharp corners and smooth curves at the same time.

Here's one I have. Dragonfly.svg

Order what you need and when you start to run a little low, order more. Outside of the occasional delay you can usually get what ever you ordered in a couple of days. If you don't have a color a customer wants, just tell them you don't have any on hand and it will be a day or two to get some. Most people are understanding. Having a color chart on hand would be a good thing though, so they can at least see exactly what the color looks like and not just a color image on a computer screen.

Neat effects, but yeah, a bit hard to read on a quick glance. Perhaps if the wording was a more solid color, say the chrome color of the outer oval.

A toaster oven will work as well for small parts and if you keep your eye out on craigslist someone will be giving away a free oven at some point, then it's just a matter of the 220V line to power it.

Don't let the NFL see any of that.