OWJones

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Posts posted by OWJones


  1. If you want the best possible color representation in your photos, then white is really the only option.

     

    Either Silver or Gold is going to modify the colors - essentially replacing white with whatever color metal you're using and giving you a "stained glass" over metal look.   Black & White images look good on colored metal, but full color photos usually look like crap - IMHO.

     

    I think the best example of why not to use colored metal for color photos is found by looking at the sample product photos from the Conde website.  They don't even bother to put a photo on the silver metal heart necklace - only on the one with the white surface...  How many other items on their website do they NOT show you a sublimated version of?

     

    post-24492-0-51890700-1453267127_thumb.j post-24492-0-70514800-1453267126_thumb.j


  2. You should also try to avoid sand as it can be a serious heath risk if you do not have the proper respiratory equipment.

     

    That health risk exists with any time of media when etching glass - glass is made from sand - which means it is also silica based.  Obviously there isn't a lot of it being blasted away, but any time you're not blasting your glass inside a sealed cabinet, you should wear a respirator.  It is cumulative and will build up over time.


  3. I personally prefer the coarser grits - the 220 leaves a very fine etch that can be hidden just by wetting the glass, or dragging an oily fingertip over the etching.  A coarser grit will leave a coarser etching that stands up to more abuse and remains visible.


  4. Dammit man, start posting your stuff all at the same time so I can combine shipping and make life easier...  

     

    Got your box of engravables, BTW...  very nice, very nice... had to order some new bits to try them out - all I had for engraving were 30° v-bits and I think I need something with a flatter bottom for that type of plastic....  Should have those next week!

    • Like 1

  5. Easy weed lives up to it's name and is IMO probably

     

    I've always wondered what it would be like to have started out using only Easyweed and then trying to switch to regular vinyl later on and wondering what the #*$*#$ you were doing wrong because it just won't #*#*#$ cooperate!

    • Like 1

  6. This is the one I got - it is not the world's greatest 3D printer, but it is solidly built and very tinkerable/hackable.

     

    I got it when it first launched as part of a prerelease price deal, but even at $399 it's still pretty affordable.  I really haven't put the time and effort into it that I should have, but I've printed several small items that turned out well.


    http://wanhaousa.com/products/duplicator-i3-steel-frame

     

    I purchase most of my filament from http://www.makergeeks.com/ - they're having a sale this weekend for 15% off of their in-house made filaments, use code "FLASH15" at checkout, their filaments are on this page - http://www.makergeeks.com/usamafi.html
     


  7. For gaming console skins and especially controller skins or anything else that is going to be handled, you're going to need to invest in a solvent based printer - aqueous printed vinyl will not hold up to that kind of handling.  Then you'll need to add a laminating machine on top of that (and no, I don't mean the 3M type of thermal laminator, I mean a multi thousand dollar machine).   Then  you're going to need several hundreds of dollars worth of vinyl, ink and laminate to get started, plus the software and computer necessary to get things from idea into implementation.

     

    Plan on spending a minimum of $10,000, assuming you buy the cheapest, lowest quality, used gear and double that for buying new.  Then figure in monthly maintenance costs, print head replacements (which can run $800 or more) and the fact that you'll need a lot of space for all of that equipment, and adequate ventilation unless you want your house to smell like an industrial print shop.

    It takes a real dedication and desire to want to do vinyl printing, and for 99% of us, it's just easier and cheaper to sub the work out to someone else to do.

    • Like 3

  8. Notice that the ad that you linked as a fellow copyright offender doesn't list their items as being "Adidas" or "Batman" anywhere in their ad - just in the pictures.

    If you included the name of the copyrighted logo that you were selling, you made it *much* easier for the copyright owner to find you - all they had to do was type "Adidas" in the search bar and look at every listing outside of sports apparel and bam - there are most of their copyright offenders.  Adidas doesn't make video game light bars, so anything with Adidas in the Video Games category is 99% certain to be a violation.

    Just because other people are getting away with it doesn't make it right - they'll be caught - eventually.   Just be grateful that this was the worst that happened to you.  You can be sued for willful copyright violation and it adds up into the hundreds of thousands PER VIOLATION.

    Figure that anything with a brand logo or even brand name is copyrighted and off limits.  Anything with a sports team logo or team name - or a college name - movie title - etc. are all copyrighted.  If someone else created/invented it and people are willing to pay for it, then you shouldn't be making it without securing a license to reproduce it first.

    • Like 1

  9. If it's a G. Knight press, you should have no problem finding a buyer and recouping most of your investment.  I bought mine for 1/2 retail and felt like I got the deal of a lifetime.

     

    Could you define "Crap load of coasters" - material and an approximate count, please?


  10. I encountered a similar issue when I installed an app (in my case, it was ACDSee) and allowed it set itself up as the app to handle .TTF files - the Install option disappeared in the right-click menu in Windows.

     

    Go into Windows Control Panel, look for the Default Programs icon and double-click that, then find the .TTF extension and make sure that Windows Font Viewer is the default app - that should fix it.


  11. I did a Google search and the only thing of interest that came up (other than this post itself!) was a link to Orafol 341 Promotion Calendared Film which sounds like it's an even shorter-term* 631, but not made specifically for painted walls.  It recommends using the same transfer tape (HT55) as 631.

     

    My guess, is that Promotion Vinyl isn't intended to replace 651, 751, 951, etc. and is supposed to be used for short term promotional purposes...

     

    *The Orafol data says that 341 is "short term" while 631 is called "short to medium term"


  12. We use Oracal (631) vinyl which is the top product.

     

    That's my only issue with what you said.  Other than the fact that 631 is intended for short term Indoor use, it is absolutely NOT the top product.  Calendared vinyls are not top-shelf, and especially not one with an aqueous adhesive.

    For decals that will be in one place and exposed to the elements, basically forever, you should use no less than Oracal 751, or Oracal 951 cast vinyls with proper, outdoor adhesives.

     

    Not only are they the "right" vinyls to use for outdoor work, but they work better with most application tapes and are much easier for customers to install compared to 631.

     

    Having said that, I feel for you - I've dealt with customers like that - there are some people that you just can NOT ever please.  You can give them free ice cream and puppies and they'll say they wanted a kitten and are lactose-intolerant...

    • Like 2

  13. If you're a female server and in staring at your chest......

     

    I work as a bartender, part-time on weekends, and I wear one of these on my left suspender strap...

     

    post-24492-0-60626900-1448329750_thumb.j

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/Programmable-Scrolling-MSD-LED-Name-Badge-LED-Display-12x48-pixels-5-Colors-/191544445080?hash=item2c98f04898:g:kB0AAOSwpDdVE2ba

     

    I have it programmed with a series of simple messages that scroll across, and even at 25% brightness, the green letters are visible from all the way across the restaurant and I'm constantly having to tell people, "Hey, my eyes are up here!"

     

    I haven't done any craft or gift shows recently, but I will definitely wear it when I do - it really draws people's attention!

    • Like 2

  14. I got a call from a local customer I've done a lot of buttons for in the past.  They're starting a new prime rib special at their hotel and wanted some buttons made for the staff to wear to promote it but they want their graphic designer to do the artwork for me, they just need specs for how big, etc.

     

    No problem, they want the 2.25" buttons, so I tell them to make a 2.75" design with all of the important parts of the design in the center 2.25" - the outside .25" border wraps around the sides and back of the button, so color it to match or bleed your picture outside the 2.25" circle so it looks good and doesn't leave a harsh edge...

     

    This is what I got.  Do you see a .25" bleed around the design?  Do you see an ugly purple border?  Do you see how ugly and grainy the text is?  Do you see how someone downloaded a picture off of Google Image Search without checking for copyrights?

     

    post-24492-0-82103600-1448316578_thumb.j

     

    I imported it, trimmed off that ugly purple border and then added a gradient fill behind it to bleed around the edges and back and came up with this.  Quarter for scale.  I don't know about, but if I'm a female staff member, I don't want someone squinting at my chest trying to read that fine print at the bottom...

     

    post-24492-0-18652500-1448316652_thumb.p

     

    I'm sending the second pic to the client to see if they want me to even bother making them while they look like this...