OWJones

All the ones that I've looked at required a very special transfer paper that vacuum forms around the phone case - and of course since it is not standard materials, it's more expensive and you run the risk of them going out of business and suddenly you're stuck with an expensive boat anchor.

It's called Linowrite and is available for free here - http://www.dafont.com/search.php?q=Linowrite&text=wag There is a sub-forum just for Font ID - you'll get a quicker response if you post there.

Are you talking about a thermal laminating pouch where it comes out stiff? Although it may work, I wouldn't want to risk a blade on that - I'd recommend multiple cuts instead of trying to cut it all in one time around. That's really more of a scissors job...

I have 3 Epsons, all using Cobra Ink brand inks. I have a WF4020 that is my "daily driver" for all letter sized printing and a WF7520 for printing larger items - both of those use the CP-650 pigment inks so I can refill both printers from the same bulk bottles. Epson #3 is a Stylus 1400 which is a 6-color printer, and it's outfitted with Cobra Ink brand CS6 inks. The WF4020 has large (4 oz.) internal cartridges, so no need for a CISS with it, and the other two have Cobra Ink brand CISS kits and they are worth the extra money. I tried using the cheaper CISS kits imported from China and sold on ebay and they included no documentation - just a link to a video for a kit for a completely different printer. The cheap kit did not include everything needed to make it work - I ended up having to take a Dremel tool to the printer to get the lid to close without pinching off the ink supply, plus there was no mention of the fact that the tanks need to be installed at a proper height to maintain a siphon flow between the tanks and the cartridges - too high and you'll flood the cartridges - too low and the ink runs back into the tanks - I never did figure that out until I bought a Cobra Ink kit and they explained in the instructions why it has to be set up just so. Richard makes sure to include everything you need right down to the rubber gloves to wear during the installation process. They also include a DVD with follow along step-by-step instructions that make the whole process simple - plus they are available for phone & email support. Good luck getting that kind of help from China.

The sad part is that they may not even know they're violating the law. Many people believe that since they bought a disc of art that came with a copyright/license agreement (which basically says you can't copy the discs and sell them) that they are somehow allowed to use the artwork they've paid for. Especially when a clip art vendor licenses it as "Swap Meet" clip art... It should be OK to sell at a swap meet, right? A lot of people also mistakenly believe that copyright protection only covers "big operations" or people with "fancy equipment" - I see lots of people at shows selling hand-painted college and pro athletic logos and designs and they think that's perfectly OK.

Wait until he gets a crowd and then ask (out loud) "How did you manage to procure a license agreement for all those different brand logos? I want to sell stuff like that, too, but copyright violation is a federal crime!" Repeat as necessary. Also, point out to the people running the show (or allowing them to set up on their property) that copyright infringement works it's way up the chain - and you have now let them know that willful infringement is occurring and they are no longer legally exempt from prosecution and lawsuits. If they continue to allow the sales of copyrighted materials they are willfully contributing to copyright infringement which places them in a very bad legal position. I saw yesterday that Etsy stockholders are suing Etsy for allowing the wholesale infringement of copyrights and trademarks and they are afraid that if anyone sues, the value of Etsy will tank and they'll lose their investment. I used to work part time for a computer store travelling around the Midwest setting up at computer shows to sell stuff. There was a company that we always jokingly referred to as the "Homeboy Computer Store" as they were very shady and all of their computers came pre-installed with Office, AutoCAD and other business software - almost as if they had been swiped right out of someone's office. They didn't include any discs, manuals, license sheets, anything other than the computer,mouse, keyboard, monitor. If you would ask them if they had something not on display, they would respond with "What you want? We'll get it for you..." One day there was a commotion at the entrance and dozens of black jacketed FBI agents rushed in and shut the whole show down. Every item they (Homeboy Computer Store) had for sale was seized, they were taken away in handcuffs and inspectors went booth to booth looking for other signs of copyright violation of AutoDesk brand software. We were lucky - we only sold hardware, so we didn't have a lot to worry about, but it sure brought that weekend to a screeching halt. Every time I see a booth like the one you pictured, I keep hoping to see a squad of FBI agents raiding them and taking them away...

I've been subscribing to this for a year or so now - it's very powerful software and I'm not a particularly artistic person and so it saves me lots of time by doing 99% of the work for me. It's been worth the $3/mo to me (price has gone up, but I still have the old $3 plan), and your credits roll-over - I currently have 70+ credits saved up.

Maybe you can use your laser cutter to build a 3D printer? http://www.instructables.com/id/Building-a-3D-Printer-Under-200/?utm_content=bufferda837&utm_medium=social&utm_source=facebook.com&utm_campaign=buffer

I'm going to bet the problem lies there. 8-in-1 systems are adequate for HTV and such, but sublimation is very temperature sensitive. If you haven't already, get yourself an IR thermometer and measure the surface temperature of the platens in multiple locations to check against what the thermostat displays. Being off as little as 10° can mean the difference between a good print and a bad print.

Who made this shirt?

Was shopping on MakerGeeks.com and saw this label on their laser cutter - thought you might like it

It shouldn't - a lot of us use that same material. As long as it's flat and not all krinkled up, it should work just as well as butcher's paper, craft paper or parchment paper.

When you're checking the temperature of the platen, are you checking all over or just spot-checking the center? Uneven heating, which is more common on cheap no-brand presses, can cause the types of issues you're experiencing. Also, let the press cool down and run your hand over the upper platen to make sure it is clean and smooth. I bought my press used and it had some gunk baked on to the back edge of the press and any designs that extended that far back would inevitably show incomplete transference. I bought some Hot Melt and cleaned that gunk off and now it's all smooth and the cloudiness went away.

Hopefully djque has his business established as an LLC to protect his home and other assets...

I don't recommend sticking a lot of popcorn in the machine to see what happens...

They seem to go Shot Glass -> Shooter Glass (2 oz.) -> Pint Glass with out much in the middle range - at least none that I saw in a quick look - can't look too long or I'll find something I need to buy... http://www.laserreproductions.com/Sublimation-Shooter-Glasses.html

Chances are you're laying out your design, adding a weed border and trying to lay a square piece of vinyl on a curved surface. You need to eliminate as much of the excess vinyl around your stencil as possible - something like this... It will be much easier to lay something like that smooth on a curved surface. Then once the stencil is down nice and smooth, go back with masking tape or scrap vinyl (I use clear shelf paper from Dollar Tree) and cover up everything that is still exposed - you don't need to worry about how pretty that part lays down as long as everything is covered.

Correct - if the printer isn't sitting on a level surface, or if the tanks are not mounted at the proper height relative to the print heads, then gravity may be working against you and keeping the ink from from flowing properly into the cartridges. I've had this happen, as the table my printer sits on isn't level (I've since shimmed it up so it sits level) and I had to occasionally re-prime the lines to get things going again. The ink the in back portion of the tanks should sit at about the same height as the ink cartridges inside the printer in order to maintain the proper flow, too.

Windows versions are like Star Trek movies - every other one is a good one. Windows Vista was bad. Windows 7 was good. Windows 8 was bad. Windows 8.1 made it better. They're skipping Windows 9 (which would be a bad version per the formula) and jumping straight to Windows 10 (hmm... isn't Apple's latest OS also v10?) - not sure if that will mean it's going to be bad or good...

That's a very long, round-a-bout way of doing it. You can cut/plot directly from within CorelDraw using the Cutmaster plugin - you don't need to export anything.

I included instructions, with pictures, in your CorelDraw thread - http://forum.uscutter.com/index.php?/topic/48863-cutplot/

You're going to have to be more specific. You don't know how to cut/plot from within CorelDraw X6? Find the Application Launcher icon on your toolbar in CorelDraw, click the little down arrow and select Cut/Plot.

As I only use my sublimation printer for sublimation printing, I have set the default printer setting to "Mirror Image" so I only have to remember to change it back on rear-pressed items - which is when I usually forget...

Cobra Ink brand inks are formulated specifically for Epson sublimation, too... That's pretty much all they can be used for. Nearly every other inkjet manufacturer uses inkjet heads that heat the ink to spray it onto paper, which would obviously be a disaster for sublimation inks - that's why sublimation kits are almost exclusively available for Ricoh or Epson printers, and Ricoh only use the (incredibly expensive) Sawgrass gel inks. You may need to re-prime the cartridge assembly that is part of the CISS kit to get it going again. Once you use up the ink in your current cartridges, run some clog buster or Cobra cleaning solution through each head until they run clear (shouldn't take much) and then re-install your sublimation kit, make sure everything is flowing again and then print 2-3 full pages of color images and that should remove any residual pigment inks. When I bought my Epson 1400 it had dye ink cartridges in it, but they were old and dried up. I bought a cheap set of generic cartridges and tested to make sure the printer was fully functional before buying the CISS kit, then did what I suggested above to clean it out and it's worked just fine for me.

Just make sure to get a pricing quote. One time I ordered a small order (less than a pound - it was shipped in a bubble pack envelope) - I'm thinking it was around $13-14 in materials - shipping & handling brought the order to almost $28, basically doubling the cost of materials - and it was stuff I was ordering for my own use and for a gift, so there wasn't going to be any profit anyways... but ouch...