slice&dice

*** Update --- OK, I found a nice piece of used equipment on craigslist, it's a Panel Saw. This thing is a monster, and is perfect for handling large sheets of 4'x8' materials (especially MDO and aluminum and even plexiglass). The great feature is the ability to RIP-CUT lengthwise, so I can turn a 4x8 into a 2x16 sign. *** Word of advice to Jim in Vancouver --- You can never have too much space !!! Lease a storefront that is BIGGER than you anticipate needing, because once you move in, all sorts of stuff will fill up the place quickly, and you'll get cramped. Even the customer-service area will seem small as soon as you get several people in the store at once. That happened to me immediately on day two, and I had to expand the customer's front counterspace a bit, which resulted in less room for my workspace.

The most valuable item in my shop is the application-tape dispenser. I use a really clever invention called the "Tape Owner" which is two plastic end pieces that hold 2 hollow (empty vinyl roll) tubes, and allows a tape roll to sit on top, and you can roll out as much as needed. One thing I did notice about this device --- it is supposed to 'catch' on the edge of a table, but sometimes it will jump off while pulling the tape, so I prefer to anchor it better, using ratchet-clamps (c-clamps) Anyone want to chime in here about the Application-tape dispensers they use, good, bad, or ugly?

Go with printed digital banners --- easiest and fastest and cheap. I get mine from an eBay supplier and for this size (3'x16') it would cost me $75 + $12 shipping. You send them a ready-to-print .pdf file and wait a few days and the banner is at your doorstep.

I have only one word to offer --- FLAMES. On second thought, I'll add another -- TRIBAL. Here are some free samples -- check 'em out and see if they are your cup of tea. http://www.clipart-design.com/freeclipart.htm

Next time this happens, I'm gonna follow THOSE instructions, and not smash it with a hammer!

Posting that cutter provided an instant Ah-HA! moment --- those are regular Envelope Openers, and I'm going to start using one tomorrow. T-Y.

Try using "weld" -- just a thought.

There should be a setting for "overcut" -- there are a few threads about that subject here in the forums: (In SignBlazer, there is a setting for Blade Offset)

My cutter head jumped the track once (it was cutting, and tracked over the far edge of the vinyl, then as it tried to return, it caught/jammed on the edge of the vinyl and that caused it to derail) Anyway, I hit it with a rubber mallet and that popped it right back on (using some minor force). YMMV.

Try some (minor) force -- maybe use a mallet or light blows with a hammer. I'm not kidding.

Honestly, there is something going on with your setup that we're not exactly understanding properly. My cutter Setup dialogue tells me COM4. Even though I'm connected to the cutter with a USB cable.

The average Joe is not going to buy a cutter, and get into the whole rigamarole of making cut-vinyl decals. After all is said and done however, you are correct, technology never sleeps, and already we see that PRINTING has overtaken cutting as a way of producing signs and decals.

Try COM4.

In a word, No. Think of it this way --- you have a unique skill set, you've established all the tools required (including a computer, specialized software and a plotter) and your clients (whoever they may be, friends or otherwise) have a certain expectation that you will charge a fair market price for doing what amounts to a professional endeavor. You are no less of a pro than an HVAC installer or a car mechanic. Don't sell yourself short. Figure that a 9"x9" decal takes the same DESIGN EFFORT in time and energy as a 48" x 96" sign. Start from that point, and charge for your INTELLECTUAL EFFORT (knowing how to set up the cut). I consider my ability in that sphere to be worth $90/hour as a matter of principle. Any job I take on will be charged at 1/2-hr minimum of design/set-up time.

Regarding banners on a roll ----- the nice thing about the bandannabanners is they have TWO grommet sets spaced at the 2' intervals. That means, you can cut between them and have the grommets on EACH SIDE of the cut (the end of one banner section and the beginning of the next) With the USCUTTER version, there is a single set of grommets placed every 24", so when you cut the material right beyond these grommets, that means you'll need to ADD grommets onto the starting corners of the next section. As it happens, I do own a USCUTTER grommet machine (just bought that a few weeks ago, as a result of the thread in these forums about it) ---- so, next time I'm in the market for an entire roll of material, I'll likely try the banners from USC. Thanks, bannerJohn (and now we know why you use THAT name !!!)

I have found that using Bandanna Banners is a very logical way to go. http://www.bandannabanner.com/ They sell rolls of heavy (13 oz) banner material in a box, all ready hemmed and grommeted, with double-grommets at 24" intervals, so all you need to do is cut between the grommets, and you have a banner of just the right length. 2' 4' 6' 8' 10' 12' 14' Pricing works out to about $9 for a 2'x6' section -- However, they don't have 12" wide material, only 24" 34" 46"

Having a front window is fun. During Halloween (late october) the window was decorated with pumpkins and orange string lights. Then, I put up Christmas lights around the edges (took 'em down a few weeks ago) I have been tempted to apply lettering right onto the glass, but I don't know what it should say. Just "SIGNS" is too dull. Anyone have a suggestion?

From what you've described, the number one priority for your own advertising is literally to get a (mock-up) race car and get it all lettered and painted with YOUR advertising, and put it on display at your retail location or out in the parking lot near a local autoparts store, under a 10x20 popup tent. What is a mock-up race car? Simply, just any old beater car from a junkyard ($200) that doesn't even run, but looks cool. Get one of your friends to help you tow it out of the scrapyard, then decorate it, and use it for a centerpiece of your advertising. Just my 2¢

Change it to COM4 -- see if that helps. (in the "Output Device" drop-down menu there at the top of your Cutter Setup dialogue box)

Can you provide a Screen-shot here of your Cutter Setup dialogue box?

Remember that white coroplast is a one-side sign material -- if you try to put lettering on both sides, they will shadow through the translucent material and make reading either side very difficult. Highly recommend OPAQUE white. I buy 4x8 sheets and cut them myself -- that's 10 blanks per sheet (18" x 24) Don't forget, customers will want various colors, not just white (yellow, red and blue are very popular) so having a few 4x8 sheets of those on hand is worthwhile, too. Metal H-stakes really are cheap looking -- I prefer to install my signs with USA SPIDER STAKES (Plastic) and charge a little more to my clients accordingly.

This is a print job, for sure, and the application of the perforated sign will be on the INSIDE of the window (the sticky facing is the printed side of the material) I order these from an online source, with a 3' x 4' area costing under $100 (delivered to my door in a few days) -- I'll price that to my clients for $250. including installation (it's a quick install, easier than regular vinyl).

The very first thing you need to do is determine what PORT your computer uses to communicate with the cutter. Most likely, Port 4 (USB) With SignBlazer open, press the CUTTER button, and then go to SETUP -- a dropdown list of Output ports will appear at the top of the dialog (right below the list of cutters, but you can choose ANY coPam cutter, that's not really a critical thing at this point, while you're trying to get the cutter responding at all) I am surprised the seller of your cutter provided NO ASSISTANCE about how it would operate whatsoever.

More ladder work --- (This is 28' on the wall --- 3-1/2 sheets of maxmetal end-to-end) maxmetal is duroplastic high-pressure laminated with a metallic aluminum surface, also known as DiBond.

The retail space is only 500 sq.ft. --- basically a converted garage with a front window. My main work area consists of two tables, 4'x8' and 4'x7' It's small and compact, but 15' of running surface area is sufficient for most things I do. On my "wish list" for 2012 -- a 4'x8' self-healing cutting mat (I'm working using a 2' x 4' one now)