Wildgoose

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Posts posted by Wildgoose

  1. Posted

    You were correct before, If you wanted to do serious contour cutting, you should have bought the correct machine,  A Graphtec or a Roland, with automatic contour cutting. and registration reading. and not a hobby/value cutter.

     

    The Keyspan and null modem cable is not a waste of money on those value cutters at all.  You will find that out soon enough.  We recommend them to all people who get a value cutter such as the MH.  Pcut, Liyu, etc.  for just plain cutting. They make a world of difference.  They make a much better connection and the work flow of data.

    This is good advice and I second the info. 

     

    You need to realize that we are for the most part just a group of people just like you. We bought machines that are budget minded and have a group that has worked through the learning curve on an almost clandestine industry and are just trying to be helpful to others who are in the same boat. I would say your post was a little accusatory and hostile and garnered a like response. 

    • Like 1

  3. Posted

    you could try and trace the emblems from your truck and scan them into your program. you could also just try measuring them and messing around with it until you get it just right. 

    this can be a long and tedious process though. 

    Tracing them or cutting a paper template to scan is the quickest way to go.

     

    I don't know if you will find a start to finish video. Each step is it's own set of skills. Are you going to try and design with the SCALP program? Most people move on to something else for that part of the process. I would suggest Inkscape or SignBlazer. They are both free programs, SignBlazer has a link here on USCutter somewhere and Inkscape is an open source program. SCALP has a decent trace feature but most of the design options on that program don't compare with either of the other free options. 

  4. Posted

    I use SignCut but with a Summa so my setting won't help you out. They have a good tech help line if you call or email them they will get you going. Definitely something with the cutter or the cutting program. Weird that it will cut other stuff ok. You should be downsaving to version 8 for cutting on SignCut. Have you ran it through the preview and seen if it's messing up during the pre-run?

  8. Posted

    I likewise see zero issues with the file at this stage so it's gotta be an import issue of some sort. When I was using SCALP I was able to import in my native CS5 format. What AI version are you working in? If I remember correctly my version of SCALP didn't like the older format (AI version B) but they have upgraded several times since I quit using it so I have no idea what the current status is. We are all assuming you are using SCALP for cutting.

  9. Posted

    I did a set of volleyball girls pics onto a white tie for the coach at our local high school. Used jet pro soft stretch, my normal light colored transfer and it turned out pretty good. One of the moms who I have made several HTV team shirts for actually said to my face "That looks like a professional did it." I had blood running out my mouth I was biting my tongue so hard not to make some smart comeback. 

    • Like 1

  15. Posted

    How big is this going to be? There are a lot of small elements that will be tough if it's too small. Is the background white? That's really going to be a complete re-draw to look good. I'd do it for probably $45 or $50 but those other guys might work cheaper than that. 

  16. Posted

    Man I don't know if there is any kind of standard for large rear window graphics. There is probably a basic rule of thumb for smaller stuff but I always just take or ask for a measurement and build to suit. I have also found that you can get into trouble with install if you don't leave a little leeway around the edges. I put some on the side windows of my own suburban and had to re-cut because I didn't think about the angle on opposite sides being reversed. 

  20. Posted

    SCALP was supposed to integrate that into their program by mid summer of 2013 but it never happened. Tiling too which is pretty much a must have for serious signwork. Sooner or later you run into something bigger than your vinyl or cutter. You might drop the weeding frame off and see if the rest goes ok. 

  21. Posted

    Nice job!  How did you do the ribbon?  And, was the etching done on the bottom of the plate or on the top side?

    Cal

    I did the ribbon in two passes. First the outline then peeled the interior and gave it a quick once over to get a good frost. I did this on the front but should have done it on the back. It still looked great but would have been more useable on the back, not that they will likely use it for a plate. I got it all cut before I thought about going on the back side and didn't feel like cutting and weeding a whole second time.

    • Like 1

  23. Posted

    Does it fall off the pinch rollers by the end? If you are still on the vinyl and just having problems with the graphic being off by the 1/4" then you might consider trying to use SignCut Pro as a cutting software. They have an option in the advanced cutting palette called stp-by-step cutting that lets you cut everything in a user defined distance before moving on. I used it a lot when I was running my P-Cut because I had the same problem you are having. It will cut everything within the first 10 or 12 inches before moving on to the next 10 or 12 inch segment. You set how long you want the segments to be, 10 inches worked about the best on my machine. When you get to the end your done and you don't have to worry about the off track. SCALP doesn't have this feature and I don't know if SignBlazer does or not. You can try a free trial of SignCut to see if it will work for you but it's a subscription based program that needs access to the internet or you have to buy a dongle. 

  25. Posted

    I don't think it will make much difference when removal time comes, especially if you plan to take it off in five years. It's the 15 year old stuff that is cracked and hardened that is tough to get off. The reflective it more expensive and a little tougher to deal with but only on smaller designs. You won't have any real issues with the size of lettering your talking about. I would be more interested to know if you think you need the reflective. Are you expecting to get extra exposure at night? If you primarily function by day then the advantages of the reflective are null. In fact I find a lot of the reflective is actually a little duller during daytime due to the composition. I have some reflective white but it's not white unless you are shining a light on it at night, by day its at best a dull eggshell color and really doesn't stand out like I want white to look. Now I use that for sandblast resist! Nice and tough and 7 mil thick.