Wildgoose

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Posts posted by Wildgoose


  1. You definitely don't want to get negative feedback if you can help it on ebay, people actually read those before they buy. I think the key is verify what the actual problem is and decide if it's a customer applied issue or a shipping issue and then you can figure out the best way to deal with it. If you plan to do a long term business on ebay then you should get prepared to have some issues. Sometimes they are legit sometimes they are just trying to get something for nothing. I would be sure and have a well thought out return policy that is VERY visible on the auction/webpage.  


  2. had a 50" - hardly ever used the 30" (but if upgrading to a graphtec fc I would seriously consider a 30") so went back to 24" ---   not as much selection in 30" and don't even remember ever seeing 36" media

    Around here and online material jumps from 24" to 30" to 48" so I agree with Dakota, 36" is a waste unless you have some special needs. I like having the ability to cut 30 material just in case. Once in a while I end up with some or I have a sign that is JUST over the 23" working window of the regular vinyl and I might pick up a few yards.


  3. Have you checked into the price of a commercial embroidery machine? A word of caution, be sure and have someone ready to pick you up off the floor when you do because you may need some assistance. It starts to make sense why those guys want so much for their work once you see what they have to pay for a good machine.

    • Like 1

  4. Is there a post # requirement or a secret handshake to be ablew to quote in this forum? Simply hitting the "quote" button does nothing.

    I wonder if your browser is giving you trouble? Maybe? Oh I remember....you need to send $100 to everyone on the forum who has more posts than you, that's what it is. Ha ha!

    • Like 5

  5. I just have a swing away from USCutter and it has done great but I will some day upgrade. I bought a perfect press pad from Stahls and use it lots for shirt sleeves and crest prints when there are buttons or seams nearby. I think mine is a 5"x6" pad. They have a whole assortment that you can buy in a group or one at a time. I just bought the one once I saw the price. I haven't tried a mouse pad but it would probably work too although it will be a little thinner than the press pad is. I also have a couple press pillows that are SUPER handy when you need one. My main one is about 12" x 12" or some such and I use it when I have a previously applied graphic on the back side that I don't want to get hot or if there are shirt seams that are up on the press as smaller shirts tend to be. If you have a seam near your image it can cause adhesion problems or wrinkles. The other press pillow I have is 5" x 16" (i think ) and is a must have for pant legs and long sleeves where you can pretty much guarantee a seam messing you up. 

    • Like 1

  6. I don't think I have had this much trouble in years. Second font in as many weeks that I can't figure out. This one is a set of numbers that I made a duplicate of for a volleyball tream and now the team wants a whole set of jerseys with the same font. Problem is I traced the two numbers here so i have no idea what the font is. The coach thought it was "Goal" but I can't find any font by that name. What the font didn't give me any good ones either although it found 17 or so fonts. None of them it. May not have the outline around it but I can do that if need be. I have a hard time identifying numbers. 

    post-20133-0-72772500-1390962719_thumb.j


  7. I like that you are asking HOW to do it rather than to have someone do it for you! Atta Boy! (one of these nice folks may well do it just to be friendly but you must be like most of us who would rather know how to do it yourself)

    • Like 1

  8. PM sent to sign torch. lesson learned never download anything off a free vector website without searching for copyright details 

    You know everyone makes mistakes now and then. It's one thing to miss something when knocking out a couple T-shirts for your neighbor and probably a little too much to expect doing hours of research on something one off like that. But a WHOLE different animal when you get into a logo creation.  


  9. How often do you cut larger than 24" vinyl? If you are willing to spend 1K then you can probably find a used or refurbished Graphtec 24" unit pretty close to that and be setting great. I had a P-Cut 48" cutter for a couple years and only cut 30" vinyl about 3 times a year and then only because that was the only material the local shop had in stock in the color I wanted. I never cut 48" once. I upgraded to aSumma D75r which is only a 30" machine and I just tile anything larger. With the higher quality cutter, tiling is no big deal because the cuts are so much more accurate. The Summa was higher dollars than the Graphtec but I have heard nothing but good comments on the Graphtecs. The biggest thing you are getting away from is the stepper motors that the lower end machines have. 


  10. I use paper for myself. I use a mix of med tack and high depending on the application. If it's something that has small letters that I think are going to give me trouble during application then I definitely use the med tack. It comes off easier with less lift on the small pieces. Sometimes you get a letter or dot that doesn't want to come off the liner being the only issue but I usually just leave it on the liner and go back for it with a small square of the same app paper and stick it where it belongs.

     

    I sell occasional stuff to local craft ladies and they like the clear and I use medium tack for that as well. Best luck for this has been the R-Tape Clear choice AT60

     

    I have found that the clear has way more tendency to tunnel and is much more susceptible to temperature changes and stretches too much for multi layer. Not to mention you are stuck without the option of a wet install or a wet removal. 

     

    Stay away from the Greenstar layflat clear. It sucks IMO. The paper stuff from Greenstar is fine but I only use it up to about 12" width. The edges are a little weird and it can go on bad if you aren't careful. I prefer the R-Tape Apli-tape or the conform versions. They cost a little more but are worth it on the big wide stuff. 

    • Like 1

  11. You might want to pick up a decent infrared temp gun. Don't be too cheap because I have heard the Harbor freight thermometers are off about as bad as a lot of heat presses are. My press is a different brand but it was off a long way from what the temp gauge said. If you get the temp about right or a little higher than recommended (Siser is mostly 305*, I do mine about 10* hotter so it never dips below the recommended) You can make a lot of extra cash with that thing believe me! You already have a cutter and the process is basically the same for custom vinyl shirts. 


  12. I looked pretty hard but I can't get comfy with designing a company graphic with the font. It is very unclear in the permissions even in the download pack so i talked him out of it. I have used it several times on misc T-shirts but thats a whole different animal than having a truck heading down the interstate with it on there. 


  13. Whoops missed that part, just saw the "it's not reflexite" and somehow my mind said it's not reflective. Getting old I guess. I have a color chart from Oracal and there doesn't appear to be anything in their reflective lineup that has that kind of POP. Someone might make a reflective laminate that could go over the top of the hi-vis maybe? Some of the guys on here are printers and know more about the laminates. I just learned what Frog Juice was a week ago. 


  14. I don't know if it is the exact same but Oracal has some specialty film called fluorescent yellow. The vinyl series number is 6510 and 7510 and the color number would be 029. They should have it here at USCutter, You will be purchasing a 10yd roll. This is NOT reflective in any way to my knowledge. The way that lowest picture is lit up makes me wonder if the stuff you have is reflective at night. 


  15. My $.02 is that neither the Dark 3G nor the JPSS paper will hold up very long,   and still look good.  If you were going to use JPSS you might as well have them done with sublimation (light colors on JPSS and Sublimation) it will be like night and day a little more cost wise, however the sublimation will never fade peel or crack and will out last the shirt, not to mention how the colors on that print will pop.

     

    I really don't understand why so many just want to sell something cheap to get the price down but the product wont last, when most customers would pay  the extra money for something that not only looks great but will last a very long time...

    Huh, I have had fantastic success with JPSS. Like 30 washings and still going strong. Don't like the dark transfers, I've tried a couple different brands and they all feel like a piece of cardboard but the Soft Stretch is hard to even tell there's anything on the shirt and the colors (pigment) outlast the shirts. ZERO cracking and as long as I trim reasonably close to the color, no noticeable ghost. I've even gotten away with open lettering with quite a bit of space in between with no issues.