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Posts posted by haumana
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Glad that you were able to McGyver a solution for yourself. Tegaderm is not cheap, and because it's intended use is in the medical community, it tends to be pricey. I always have some at home, but use it only when necessary. Unfortunately because it's crazy thin, I think trying to use it with a cutter (and carrier sheet) would be problematic to weed and apply. I would be curious to see how you ended up using it for your application, and the process you used.
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Take a quick look at this page, it'll give you a quick snapshot of some of the different features for vinyl cutters.
If you're buying a new cutter, each will come with software to get your running, but if you're looking for which version of VM to consider, then take a look here, and you can see the difference between the VM versions.
You should first consider your use and budget, and then what features you would like versus what you require.
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I think it all comes down to personal preference, and how you intend to use it. I know a graphic designer who strictly uses a mouse, even though she tried a tablet and didn't care for it. I asked how to managed when she needed to do really intricate work, and she said her trick was to use a gaming mouse, and use the mouse's software to use precision mode. I personally use trackballs, which most people are not fond of at all, but my trackballs have a precision mode, which I often use as well.
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I'm hoping that the format that USC has this forum on, can support something like that. I'm all for that idea
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While I understand that you're not trying to get this done in SBE, SBE serves as a very good way to test a multitude of cutter/plotter issues, including connectivity/communication. I know that for SignBlazer Elements, the COMPort need to be 4 or lower. I would recommend you download SBE, check Device Manager and change the COMPort that Windows has assigned if necessary, then see if you can cut/plot out of SBE. Windows 10 is notorious for automatically downloading and installing updates, which can sometimes cause issues with the cutter. You may need to go the extra step of getting a null modem cable and connecting it to your machine with a keyspan adapter.
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There are several different manufacturers for reflective vinyl, and several different grades. Because it's going on vehicles, you're going to want to go with one that has some longevity to is, because you're not going to want to scrap it and replace it in a couple of years. Reflective vinyl doesn't not come off easily. Different manufacturers have different names for their different types of reflective material, there's going to be a learning curve to this - both informational, and application.
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Brush 455 MT or AR Berkley ,maybe on your computer (AR Berkley)
Mahalo!!! AR Berkley is spot on! I envy your font knowledge
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I purchased a used PCUT630 and had followed the instructions to connect it and use SBE. Serial port to USB and it worked fine. I tried to adjust the settings and use the vga connection but it didn't work. I went back to the Serial to USB and I can't get it to work! I've tried reinstalling, restarting, etc.
When I'm in the cutter setup, but COM port doesn't show up. I am using COM5 according to my device manager but the highest COM shown is 4. I've tried all of the options, just in case. No luck.
Can anyone help??
There is no VGA connection on the cutter. It's either serial (to be used with a null modem cable) and a Keyspan (serial to USB adapter).
What operating system and version are you using?
COMPORT needs to be 4 or lower for SBE. You need to go into your Device Management and designate the port that Windows is detecting the cutter to something lower than 5.
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Mahalo for keeping us updated. I'm sure this thread will be able to help others in the future.
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when the machine is off, is the blade carriage in the "up" position or in the "down" position (resting on the cutting strip)?
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Hello
I have a MH 721-MK2 Plotter and I need the drivers for Windows 10
where you can download it.Thank you.
There isn't a driver for the cutter per se, it's more about having the right cutting software that will support your cutter. Unfortunately, US Cutter hasn't updated their support pages, but maybe this might help guide you in the right direction.
https://support.uscutter.com/hc/en-us/sections/360007520231-MH-MK2-Series
What software do you have? How are you connecting your computer to the cutter?
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Reviving a seemingly dead topic. I have a MH 871 MK2 and am using Sure Cuts A lot. I am getting the same random diagonal glitch. All of the links in this thread are all dead. I have looked in the forum and have not found a similar thread, so I thought I would resurrect this one as I am having the same exact issue.
Thanks in advance.
Win 10 64 bit
Sure Cuts A lot 5.0 Pro
MH 871 MK2 on USB
Typically when you get the slash, it means the software is still in Trial mode.
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We went thru this with him on another previous problem, University rules. Can't change the software. They don't want to change anything. Kinda hard to trouble shoot. But good ideas!!
That's unfortunate. I wonder how the University will respond if they cannot get the cutter to work properly - stick to the steadfast rules and virtually brick good equipment, or try and let someone actually help.
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what length cable are you using from macs to cutters? are you using a hub?
have you tried using the Graphtec Studio software to see if you're getting those same cutting results?
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Haumana, as he turns on the cutter, (or hits reset button) it performs a full self-test action of all three axis. Zip-Zip-Zip. That indicates good functionality of the machine. (a 'test cut' is a very different thing than just seeing if the unit is working on all 3 directions xyz)....
My bad. I don't pay attention to any of my cutters to see if they do some kind of zip-zip-zip self-test., hence why I asked about doing a self-test.
I'm guessing that the Vevor the OP has probably also has a serial port.
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Out of curiosity, have you done a test cut, to make sure the x-axis, grit rollers, and z-axis are all functional?
Cutters are some pretty basic machines, and the tech on them doesn't advance as quickly as computers. You can use a newer PC, but it won't necessarily get you a higher level of compatibility with the machine.
Drivers: If you're using a serial to USB (keyspan), then you will need the correct driver for your computer for the keyspan device. A "driver" for the cutter will usually be handled within whichever cutter software you choose to use. Is the only type of communication port on the cutter, serial?
Google says that software that is compatible with Vevor's are: SignCut, SignMaster, and Flexi. I am unfamiliar to all of them, so I would say if those have trial versions of their software, then try those out and see if you can get your PC to communicate with your cutter.
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When I used the refine cutter I used a usb to serial cable, I ordered one and am trying that as well.
is there a driver for this machine?
I would check the Vevor website for any drivers.
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If you cannot seem to get SignBlazer to work, you can try other cutting software. They typically will have a trial version, and then you can see if your computer can successfully communicate with your cutter to begin with.
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clean up the image to isolate the text, then run it by a font identifier.
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The moderators are banning them as we come across them. As far as security implementations, we will need to check to see what's available for this particular platform and go from there. There was a point in time where all messages required the approval of a moderator, let's hope it doesn't resort to that again. Thank you to those who have flagged previous posts, but because the issue is so rampant at the moment, we are trying to check the forum and ban these bogus accounts as time allows us to do so. No flagging is necessary for these spam posts, as we're doing what we can to stay on them. Mahalo everyone for your patience and understanding.
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Huh, I had no idea that there was any other version than SBE, learning something new everyday
Titan 3 Blade Recommendations
in TITAN Series Vinyl Cutter Discussions
Posted
Depends on who you ask. I am a huge fan for Clean Cut Blades. If there's smaller, more intricate, or thin lines happening, then a 60 degree, and slowing down the speed should help you. I'm not a fan of changing blades, so I cut just about anything (with exception to reflective), with my 60* blade, which resides in the carriage about 90% of the time.
If the stuff if coming up as you weed, you might need to increase the force just a smidgen, so that it's cutting through the adhesive as well. Another issue is how long are you allowing your cut vinyl to sit before weeding. I will generally not allow any cut vinyl to sit for more than 24-hour without being weeded. If I can't weed a project within 24-hours, then I don't cut it until I can make the time.