haumana

Where are you located?

Hmm, now that is a quandry. Have you tried to rotate the design in the workspace, and send it to the cutter 'as is'? Will the text cut properly if you don't have the speed weed option on? I personally don't use any kind of easy weed or speed weed. I just take the time to add my own cut lines, because it would take me longer to weed after the a speed weed setting then it would be when I draw in my own cut relief lines, especially when I have a larger graphic that will optimally weed if I add in relief cuts within the design to make the weeding easier. Usually when I have start/finish issues that don't match-up, I will check to make sure that the pinch rollers are equally space from the two edges of vinyl, that the pinch rollers are over the grit rollers. You could also check the conditions of the rollers, I would just not recommend adjusting the spring tension on the rollers. That's an absolute last resort. For speed, I find that a slower speed works better. The speed I typically cut at floats around 15-20. I'm usually never in a rush, and I'd rather take my time to cut it slowly once over wasting the time it would take to cut it fast, and find out that it was bad cut job during weeding.

Hard to do any additional troubleshooting without getting the actual graphic so that others can test cut and see what kind of results they get as well.

I would first recommend to set the blade depth properly. When you do the drag test (by hand), you should be able to tell if the blade is rotating in the holder. If it's not, or if you feel there might be too much drag on the rotation, then you can try a tiny drop of precision oil. Different machines will have different speed and pressure 'sweet spots,' even within the same machine make and model (though the settings should be fairly close). I would slow the speed down a bit. I would rather the machine take it's time cutting, than me needing to reload the machine after I've spent time weeding it and wasted the material because rushing the cut was unnecessary. I can't say that I've ever had a bad cut because the speed was too slow, but I can definitely tell you that I've had to redo some projects because the speed was too fast. If it's a large design with minimal hard corners and nothing intricate, then I'll run it faster, but those projects don't come along too often for me. Lately I've been commissioned to make stencils of these ridiculously small designs with super thin lines for someone who fabricates custom Star Wars helmets, it makes me totally mental to weed them, and I cut those teeny tiny graphics with a speed ranging between 3 -5. Optimal speed and force can also be dependent on the vinyl (type, manufacturer, color, age, etc.). If you do decide to get a Clean Cut blade, be sure to dial back the force when you recalibrate your machine for the new blade. We all started somewhere, and for me - this forum was my saving grace, so and keep on asking questions (but try to use the search feature first ). Stick with it and keep us updated with your progress. You chose a good machine to get started with .

You might want to make sure you have the blade depth set properly. This is what you're aiming for ... And you can use Skeeter's instructions on how to get there. "To start with, you should set your blade depth correctly, by taking the blade holder out of the machine, and firmly cut across a piece of scrap vinyl, you will be cutting. You should only be cutting the vinyl and barely a mark on wax paper backing, Adjust blade to get there, Then put the blade holder back in machine, and use the force of the machine to get there, same results, only cutting the vinyl and barely a mark in wax paper backing. You should barely see and feel the blade out of the blade holder. Regular sign vinyl is only 2-3 mil thick. You only cut with the very tip of the blade."

Depends on who you ask. I am a huge fan for Clean Cut Blades. If there's smaller, more intricate, or thin lines happening, then a 60 degree, and slowing down the speed should help you. I'm not a fan of changing blades, so I cut just about anything (with exception to reflective), with my 60* blade, which resides in the carriage about 90% of the time. If the stuff if coming up as you weed, you might need to increase the force just a smidgen, so that it's cutting through the adhesive as well. Another issue is how long are you allowing your cut vinyl to sit before weeding. I will generally not allow any cut vinyl to sit for more than 24-hour without being weeded. If I can't weed a project within 24-hours, then I don't cut it until I can make the time.

Glad that you were able to McGyver a solution for yourself. Tegaderm is not cheap, and because it's intended use is in the medical community, it tends to be pricey. I always have some at home, but use it only when necessary. Unfortunately because it's crazy thin, I think trying to use it with a cutter (and carrier sheet) would be problematic to weed and apply. I would be curious to see how you ended up using it for your application, and the process you used.

Take a quick look at this page, it'll give you a quick snapshot of some of the different features for vinyl cutters. If you're buying a new cutter, each will come with software to get your running, but if you're looking for which version of VM to consider, then take a look here, and you can see the difference between the VM versions. You should first consider your use and budget, and then what features you would like versus what you require.

I think it all comes down to personal preference, and how you intend to use it. I know a graphic designer who strictly uses a mouse, even though she tried a tablet and didn't care for it. I asked how to managed when she needed to do really intricate work, and she said her trick was to use a gaming mouse, and use the mouse's software to use precision mode. I personally use trackballs, which most people are not fond of at all, but my trackballs have a precision mode, which I often use as well.

I'm hoping that the format that USC has this forum on, can support something like that. I'm all for that idea

While I understand that you're not trying to get this done in SBE, SBE serves as a very good way to test a multitude of cutter/plotter issues, including connectivity/communication. I know that for SignBlazer Elements, the COMPort need to be 4 or lower. I would recommend you download SBE, check Device Manager and change the COMPort that Windows has assigned if necessary, then see if you can cut/plot out of SBE. Windows 10 is notorious for automatically downloading and installing updates, which can sometimes cause issues with the cutter. You may need to go the extra step of getting a null modem cable and connecting it to your machine with a keyspan adapter.

Have you tried any of these steps? https://static1.squarespace.com/static/5900b1a3c534a5aa8149a65c/t/593199d6a5790af7dff4fb0b/1496422874581/CE5000+SetUp+Manual.pdf

There are several different manufacturers for reflective vinyl, and several different grades. Because it's going on vehicles, you're going to want to go with one that has some longevity to is, because you're not going to want to scrap it and replace it in a couple of years. Reflective vinyl doesn't not come off easily. Different manufacturers have different names for their different types of reflective material, there's going to be a learning curve to this - both informational, and application.

Mahalo!!! AR Berkley is spot on! I envy your font knowledge

This font looks so darn familiar, but apparently I do not have it on file

There is no VGA connection on the cutter. It's either serial (to be used with a null modem cable) and a Keyspan (serial to USB adapter). What operating system and version are you using? COMPORT needs to be 4 or lower for SBE. You need to go into your Device Management and designate the port that Windows is detecting the cutter to something lower than 5.

Mahalo for keeping us updated. I'm sure this thread will be able to help others in the future.

when the machine is off, is the blade carriage in the "up" position or in the "down" position (resting on the cutting strip)?

There isn't a driver for the cutter per se, it's more about having the right cutting software that will support your cutter. Unfortunately, US Cutter hasn't updated their support pages, but maybe this might help guide you in the right direction. https://support.uscutter.com/hc/en-us/sections/360007520231-MH-MK2-Series What software do you have? How are you connecting your computer to the cutter?

Typically when you get the slash, it means the software is still in Trial mode.

That's unfortunate. I wonder how the University will respond if they cannot get the cutter to work properly - stick to the steadfast rules and virtually brick good equipment, or try and let someone actually help.

what length cable are you using from macs to cutters? are you using a hub? have you tried using the Graphtec Studio software to see if you're getting those same cutting results?

My bad. I don't pay attention to any of my cutters to see if they do some kind of zip-zip-zip self-test., hence why I asked about doing a self-test. I'm guessing that the Vevor the OP has probably also has a serial port.

Out of curiosity, have you done a test cut, to make sure the x-axis, grit rollers, and z-axis are all functional? Cutters are some pretty basic machines, and the tech on them doesn't advance as quickly as computers. You can use a newer PC, but it won't necessarily get you a higher level of compatibility with the machine. Drivers: If you're using a serial to USB (keyspan), then you will need the correct driver for your computer for the keyspan device. A "driver" for the cutter will usually be handled within whichever cutter software you choose to use. Is the only type of communication port on the cutter, serial? Google says that software that is compatible with Vevor's are: SignCut, SignMaster, and Flexi. I am unfamiliar to all of them, so I would say if those have trial versions of their software, then try those out and see if you can get your PC to communicate with your cutter.

I would check the Vevor website for any drivers.