haumana

start with the blade depth. check your cutting strip to make sure it's okay. maybe slow the cut speed.

Possibly. You'd need to use a carrier sheet, and it might take several passes. Let us know your results. Media type Self-adhesive marking film (vinyl, fluorescent, reflective) excluding high-intensity reflective film, up to 0.25 mm thickness Polyester film, up to 0.25mm thickness (unguaranteed accuracy)

[OP: Hello, I am new and French and hope you will understand my request. I have SignCut and inkcape software. Here is my problem, when I type a text on inkcape and that I save it in EPS, when I load it on the SignCut software this one does not put all the letters to me. Example: I have to cut out the first name ILAN and of course on SignCut it marks me LAN. I don't understand why if someone can help me Thanking you] Pouvez-vous simplement taper le texte directement dans SignCut? Lorsque vous ouvrez le fichier Inkscape enregistré dans SignCut, est-ce qu'il vous demande ou vous dit qu'il doit y avoir une sorte de remplacement de texte? Utilisez-vous un glyphe pour l'une des lettres? Avez-vous essayé de l'enregistrer dans un format différent (c'est-à-dire .eps, .svg. ai, etc.)? Quel est le nom de la police que vous utilisez? [Can you just type the text directly in SignCut? When you are opening the saved Inkscape file in SignCut, is it asking or telling you that it there needs to be some kind of text replacement? Are you using a glyph for any of the letters? Have you tried saving it in a different format (ie. .eps, .svg. ai, etc.)? What is the name of the font that you're using?]

Can you post the picture, rather than the screen shot?

Yup, I will try to take people at their word, but it's tough if they're using the wrong terminology.

Hahaha ... my husband will take a picture on his iphone, of what he's looking at on his iPad to send it to me. He doesn't know how to text the link or airdrop it. The challenge is real!

Actually the OP did state that it was cutting in a mirrored format, as well has orientation. Regardless, mirrored or not, that's a simple fix, and if you have a job waiting to push out the door, then work around the issue and troubleshoot with the job is done.

At least you're willing to do it! I am having a difficult time getting Ken to just sit down and review the CAD drawings that I designed for the renovation/extension. I think he hopes it will all get done magically and one he will wake up and the project got approved, completed, and is ready for his enjoyment.

We only ask, what seems like obvious questions, because the information you're mostly providing us is your end result. What we don't know, is if you have already tried checking and unchecking various boxes, etc. I am also an original LP owner, for well over 12+ years. From the get go, Creation PCut CT735 was the machine that was selected in SBE. I don't know how the version you have does not have that machine listed. Like I said before, if your machine is cutting, but not like how you want it (for the moment), adjust what you need to get the correct output. Mirror your design, send it to the machine, get the order out, then come back when you have time to tinker with settings. If have the money, splurge on better software now, if you don't - get the job out, download some trial software from other companies and see if those will work in the correct layout and orientation for you.

You can keep thinking about your previous computer, but that's not going to help you in any way shape or form. If you're doing the layout, and it's cutting in mirrored format, than the temporary quick fix is to mirror it prior to sending it to the cutter, or check the box for mirroring in the software. You might always want to check or uncheck the box "Rotate Across Vinyl" and see if that helps you. It would help us a lot if you tell us what you have specifically tried, so we can narrow the possibilities for the fix.

Looking fancy.

did you make sure that you have the right drivers for the keyspan you're using? from your original post, if i understand this correctly, you can cut, however it doesn't cut in the orientation that you want? when you say that it cuts in reverse, what does that mean? do you have a picture or a video?

Are you looking under PCut or Creation PCut? How are you connecting the puter to the cutter? USB or Serial? If USB, make sure you designate which USB Port in the SBE software, do not let it 'auto' select. If you're using the serial with a keyspan, make sure you install the correct drivers for the keyspan.

Which version of LP do you have? If it's the first, original LP, select Creation PCut CT735 as your cutter in the SBE software.

A stiffer carrier sheet will help with the kraft paper from tenting up, or if you can rig something that can minimize the sheet from flexing while it's jogging back and forth through the cut window.

That's looking really good! Thanks for keeping us updated and showing your results.

Download and install SignBlazer Elements. It's free, and couldn't hurt at this point. Give that a go, and see if you file will cut to completion.

Might worth while trying a Clean Cut Blade.

Yes, those would work, but you can also find larger ones on Amazon. That's where I got mine for cutting HTV (because the backing wouldn't track properly). As long as the kraft paper can adhere to the carrier sheet, it should be fine. Now getting the right speed and force for cutting the kraft paper might take a little time trying to dial it in.

It's not "it's probably be better if the blade's not cutting all the way through," it's just that you will jam your machine like there is no tomorrow if you allow the blade to cut all the way through - regardless if it's on paper or vinyl. You do not need to change your cutting strip, unless it's already got some damage that's causing the blade not to cut through the vinyl (and NOT the backing) properly. If you want to cut all the way through vinyl and/or paper, you will need a carrier sheet, like the type that Cricuts use. That is really only way your cutter will be able to handle cutting through media, not jamming because the media is lifting, and not causing damage to the cutting strip. If you're just plotting with a pen, the existing cutting strip that shipped with your cutter will suffice, unless it's totally damaged and has rough spots and/or gouges, then you should change that with a new cutting strip that was designed for your machine. If you're not getting a quality result from the pen plot, it would suggest you find a different pen. Another thing to keep in mind is that you own an MH series plotter, which is considered entry level, and was designed to be a cutter over a plotter. To expect that this machine will have the plot quality of a machine that was designed to be a true plotter is unrealistic.

VM's response is from 4-years ago, so it's hard for any of us volunteers to know what their activation/multiple computer policies currently are. The only way to know, is to try it, or reach out to VM with your inquiry.

If I may ask what kind of laser you have? As I have my lasers on my network, so as long as I am connected to my network (wired or wireless), I can send jobs to the cutter and still use both machine simultaneously.

Technically the Prism is WiFi, which in my opinion is better than Bluetooth. I would love for all my devices to either be Wifi, or at least be network capable.

You can try and cut down on the jerky movements by cleaning up nodes. It can be time consuming, depending on size, the design, and quantity of nodes. I think about like this - for every node I see, that's an stop & go point that's is being sent to the cutter, the more I can minimize those, the smoother the cut I will tend to get.

Are you cutting by color? If so, make sure the two colors are selected, so the cutter knows to cut both.