haumana

I'm not a cricut'er, but have checked with other Mac Cricut users, and the recommendation is to probably uninstall and reinstall Design Space.

Let me know if I have this correct - Cut, peel off backing (no weeding of design), apply to wood, weed out the stencil, paint, remove rest of vinyl. Why use an application tape ... if you weed your design before application, then you will absolutely need to use a transfer tape, because that would be a whole lot of manual labor. If you weed prior application and use a transfer tape, you can see your design (whether it's in the negative or positive), and how to align it to your object. I cannot speak for a other users, however, when i cut, if I tried to peel the vinyl without weeding, it will weed the exterior by default because I have the blade cutting through the vinyl, as well as the adhesive, so it will not stay in one piece with a design or text cut into it. If what you're doing works best for you, and gets you the fastest production, then stick with it. There isn't a hard and fast rule about most of this stuff (with exception to never using clear transfer tape when doing a wet application). Even if you stick with your method, I would still suggest you have some application tape on hand for the "just in case" situations

your cut pressure should be determined by the quality of the depth of the cut on your vinyl - you just want it to cut through the vinyl and the adhesive. if you've properly set the depth of your blade, then the backing of the vinyl will have a slight scoring, but not actually an actual slice into the backing. If there are slices, then either the blade is too far out, and/or the cut pressure is too much. different vinyl's sometimes take different pressure, even if it's the same vinyl manufacturer and type (ie. Oracal 651, I have to dial up the pressure a little cut white, and dial down the pressure to cut black, etc.); the type of vinyl (cast, calendared, HTV, reflective, etc.); age of vinyl (if you don't regularly have a turnover of colors); and blade manufacturer. I'm sure I'm missing other things that can possibly require changes to pressure. speed of cuts sometimes require adjusting depending on size of the design, the intricacy or detail of the design, size of the text, and/or type of blade you're using (60* vs. 45*) when you find a sweet spot for your cutter - speed, pressure, blade type, etc. write it down. I have a mirror very close to my machine that I use like a dry erase board - I have written the settings for cutting 651, 631, 751, different brands of reflective, color exceptions, etc.

Is there a question, or is your question what design options there are for your Titan? You can pretty much design in anything that will either draw in vector, or can vectorize. Cutters will only cut vector images. What you design in could be a different software than what you cut with (CorelDraw, Adobe Illustrator, Inkscape, etc.), and then there are design and cutting programs (Flexi, VinylMaster, SignCut, SignBlazer, etc.) Every user here uses whatever they are most comfortable and proficient at.

That's super weird. I know that you did the design in Inkscape, have you tried flattening the file, then tracing it? (hopefully not losing any detail)

make sure the cutter is not pulling directly (under tension) from the roll of vinyl. always leave enough slack that it can do the entire length. make sure that you get your outside pinch roller as even towards the edges as possible (i.e. about 1" - 1.5" from edge of your vinyl). not sure what speed you're cutting at, but you might want to slow it down. just realize that the budget cutters will have some drift, but doing some of the above suggestion will help to minimize it.

Here's is your answer.

Thank you for your contribution. It's members like yourself that make this forum a great one! Members helping members.

Does this machine have specific locations the rollers need to be in, or does the grit roller pretty much run the length? I wish my Graphtec let me put the roller where I see fit, like my LaserPoint.

Colors have to be cut separate, always. Unless you're printing and sublimating. If you're trying to do PSV (pressure sensitive vinyl), or HTV, there is no way of getting around that. Is there a way to minimize wasted HTV? usually there is, but that also means manual alignment before pressing. Is there a way to minimize wasted PSV? yes on that answer too, but it's not worth the effort when doing multiple colors - better to waste the vinyl and use some kind of registration mark, or alignment shape.

Since you're not the OP, you might what want to tell us a little about the use of it. Are you just using it to fun the cutter? Are you using it to also run financials for your business? What's your budget? Do you really need the portability of a laptop? any other pertinent info? Just know that if you get a Win10 machine, there is no way to stop the machine from periodically downloading and installing updates. There are times where the updates do not affect the performance or connectivity from your PC to your cutter, and there are other times when it can.

It means your PC is detecting it. Was it not detecting it when you were having trouble?

Get the best machine that's in your budget.

Almost afraid to ask, what version of Windows are you using, and did it run some kind of update? Did you run any update on your AI?

That's probably a one-off. You can try and search for a similar sans serif font, then overlay the graphic and do a weld/combine (whatever your software calls it) kind of thing.

¿Está usando serial en ambos lados o está usando un adaptador USB en el lado de la PC? ¿Ha cortado algo con éxito antes de tener este problema? ¿Ha cambiado la configuración de todos modos: cable nuevo, adaptador nuevo, ...? puedes apoyarme por favor Are you using serial on both sides, or are you using a USB Adapter on the PC side? Have you successfully cut anything before you had this problem? Has your setup changed in anyway - new cable, new adapter, ...?

strictly personal preference. just don't do it in the direct sun, or when your trailer is hot.

not working as in they are stuck in the up position won't drop back down to pinch the vinyl, or the rollers itself is stuck and won't roll?

What are the names of those fonts? So that others may know too.

I usually use water, isopropyl alcohol, and a drop or two of dish soap. Easy peasy.

That's a great photo!

Force for 651 on my CE6000-60 Plus ranges between 12 - 20, depending on the color and crunchiness (age) of the vinyl, strictly using a 60* Clean Cut Blade. Just make sure that the blade holder is seated properly and properly tightened.

Thanks for coming to the US Cutter forum. Just an FYI - if you take a few minutes to register then your posts will go up immediately instead of waiting for a moderator to approve it. If there is weight (line thickness), then the vector engine is doing its job properly. That's pretty much going to happen in most vectorizing programs. Are you willing to post the file?

If you're trying to cut HTV, I would recommend a carrier sheet, as the the clear "front" of the HTV tends to be very slippery. As for your second question, I would highly recommend checking out youtube. Videos should also show you which side of the HTV to be cutting. One of the most important things with HTV ... mirror your image and/or graphics!

Itʻs more like this photo, "birdʻs eye" and square it as much as possible. Iʻm guessing youʻre looking for this template?